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Need a new clutch, have a question


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Ok, I have an '88 Comanche that needs a new clutch. I'm thinking I'm going to try and do this myself rather than pay some schmoe hundreds of dollars. I think I have it pretty much figured out how it goes, and I'm feeling fairly comfortable with it. However, when I located the bolts connecting the tranny to the engine, there are two of them (e-torx... really?)up at the top right next to the engine head. I have looked at these from top, bottom and every direction I can think of and I just don't know how in the world I can get to these two bolts to remove them. I simply can't see any way to get to them. Any clues or suggestions would be great.

 

Don't know if this matters but I have the inline 4.0 and the BA 5/10 transmission.

 

Thanks

Dean

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Dunno if this is the correct way, disconnecting the crossmember with the transmission mount to lower the angle of the transmission to access those top bolts. You might be able to get at them through the engine bay with it lowered . But I've never done this job on a Jeep only read about it, take it with a grain of salt and see if anybody else has better advice.

 

If there is no better way as mentioned the extensions and maybe a swivel heat adapter will be the only good way to get those lose.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Dunno if this is the correct way, disconnecting the crossmember with the transmission mount to lower the angle of the transmission to access those top bolts. You might be able to get at them through the engine bay with it lowered . But I've never done this job on a Jeep only read about it, take it with a grain of salt and see if anybody else has better advice.

 

If there is no better way as mentioned the extensions and maybe a swivel heat adapter will be the only good way to get those lose.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

This definitely can help, but it will only drop a couple inches.  The two foot ratchet extension is a must.

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Did one on Thursday for a friend a BA10/5. once you drop crossmember lower it down and get your self 2 feet or longer. I basically had 3 feet on a air ratchet. took those top two off, then I raised it back up to level and pulled the remaining. Pulled the transmission jack back with some wiggles since that bearing does dry out and sticks. while your doing the clutch make sure your clutch fluid is not dark, if it is clean your good. if it is dark coming from the master, best bet to change master too. once it gets any contamination it can cause early death to your slave. Dark fluid can also mean you have a small leak around the seal between firewall and pedal, you don't need that eating your wiring up below in the fuse box. I went ahead and replaced , master cluch cylinder with new line and everything in the trans. when you put the trans back in grease up the end up it and the bearing, it will make it easier. while you have it down clean up your cps sensor as well, they can get pretty dirty.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Yes do the studs like Pete says, and always replace the slave and master on these internal ones and flush the line.  They suck. I have never had a clutch wear out before the slave fails.  And rinse out the master with new brake fluid, for some reason they new masters have metal filings floating around in the new fluid in them. (This might only apply to the TJ ones)  I never drop the trans mount and seem to get the top bolts out fine with extensions and wobbles.  And new pressure plate bolts with red locktite.

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