mdmonroe Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Ok, I have an '88 Comanche that needs a new clutch. I'm thinking I'm going to try and do this myself rather than pay some schmoe hundreds of dollars. I think I have it pretty much figured out how it goes, and I'm feeling fairly comfortable with it. However, when I located the bolts connecting the tranny to the engine, there are two of them (e-torx... really?)up at the top right next to the engine head. I have looked at these from top, bottom and every direction I can think of and I just don't know how in the world I can get to these two bolts to remove them. I simply can't see any way to get to them. Any clues or suggestions would be great. Don't know if this matters but I have the inline 4.0 and the BA 5/10 transmission. Thanks Dean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 2' long extension Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Dunno if this is the correct way, disconnecting the crossmember with the transmission mount to lower the angle of the transmission to access those top bolts. You might be able to get at them through the engine bay with it lowered . But I've never done this job on a Jeep only read about it, take it with a grain of salt and see if anybody else has better advice. If there is no better way as mentioned the extensions and maybe a swivel heat adapter will be the only good way to get those lose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Dunno if this is the correct way, disconnecting the crossmember with the transmission mount to lower the angle of the transmission to access those top bolts. You might be able to get at them through the engine bay with it lowered . But I've never done this job on a Jeep only read about it, take it with a grain of salt and see if anybody else has better advice. If there is no better way as mentioned the extensions and maybe a swivel heat adapter will be the only good way to get those lose. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro This definitely can help, but it will only drop a couple inches. The two foot ratchet extension is a must. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Did one on Thursday for a friend a BA10/5. once you drop crossmember lower it down and get your self 2 feet or longer. I basically had 3 feet on a air ratchet. took those top two off, then I raised it back up to level and pulled the remaining. Pulled the transmission jack back with some wiggles since that bearing does dry out and sticks. while your doing the clutch make sure your clutch fluid is not dark, if it is clean your good. if it is dark coming from the master, best bet to change master too. once it gets any contamination it can cause early death to your slave. Dark fluid can also mean you have a small leak around the seal between firewall and pedal, you don't need that eating your wiring up below in the fuse box. I went ahead and replaced , master cluch cylinder with new line and everything in the trans. when you put the trans back in grease up the end up it and the bearing, it will make it easier. while you have it down clean up your cps sensor as well, they can get pretty dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdmonroe Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 Thanks for the info. I had wondered if dropping the crossmember would help at all. I'll give it a shot. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I used 3' of extensions and a swivel head to get to the top bolts. Wrapped em all in take so that the swivel doesnt swivel too easily and the extensions don't come out of each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Loosen the top two bolts before you loosen any others. There will be less tension on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjrev10 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Do not put those toes bolts back in. Replace with a standard 6 point bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 or grade 8 studs. then they will help with alignment when you put the trans back. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1989 comanche mj Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Yes do the studs like Pete says, and always replace the slave and master on these internal ones and flush the line. They suck. I have never had a clutch wear out before the slave fails. And rinse out the master with new brake fluid, for some reason they new masters have metal filings floating around in the new fluid in them. (This might only apply to the TJ ones) I never drop the trans mount and seem to get the top bolts out fine with extensions and wobbles. And new pressure plate bolts with red locktite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 or grade 8 studs. then they will help with alignment when you put the trans back. :D About to remove my trans also. What size bolt do I need to purchase? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 I bet it's in the DIY thread on bolt sizes. :thumbsup: not everything is there yet, but that one should. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omega_rugal Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 Dark fluid can also mean you have a small leak around the seal between firewall and pedal damn the clutch fluid on my MJ is dark, gotta fix that asap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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