Lift Questions

[btipsword1]

Hey guys, so I am in the process of rebuilding the front end on my 89, and also adding a 4.5" lift and staying SUA in rear.  I have several questions...

 

1. Is there a trick to getting the lower ball joints out?  I got the tops out no problem.  I got the driver's side lower to move about 1/8th of an inch but then seized up again, and I cannot seem to find a cup adapter to fit the passenger lower, there seems to be a flange that sticks out just enough to not be able to get a cup between the ball joint base and that flange on the bottom side, I'm guessing this has been seen before?  Maybe I'm missing something, this is my first time at ball joints, and I'm using an el cheapo Harbor Freight press

 

2. I had only planned on doing a minimal amount of replacements parts up front (track bar, Lower control arms, steering stabilizer, and extended quick disconnects) but after I got under there and started wrenching, I decided it would be wise to just replace most of the remaining components.  So as of now, I am looking for the drag link and tie rod, complete with the steering adjuster sleeve and tie rod ends where needed.  My question is 1.  Do I need to go beefy with the replacements I purchase? In all reality this will be a very mild off roader, if any at all.  and 2. Do these items typically come with hardware?  In a quick search I found a moog tie rod and drag link for around $130 or so for the pair.  - not sure if these come with tie rod ends or not.

 

3.  Since I'm basically gutting the suspension components I went ahead and removed both lower control arms, sway bar links, everything but the track bar.  When I did the axle moved rearward and down obviously.  I took this opportunity to remove stock coil springs as they almost fell out anyway.  I went to test fit the Passenger side lift spring, and realized how far off the axle is now.  I tried to then jack the passenger side axle upward to make room on the drivers side for the new lift spring as well, but didn't have much luck.  I didn't try at this very long, it was toward the end of the day, but it got me wondering if it would be best to just remove the trackbar and upper control arms and reposition the axle where it needs to be, then easily install my drivers lift spring and the rest of the components and jack the axle up into place?  The only other alternatives I could think of were to use a ratchet strap to get my axle back forward to where it needs to be, then use a floor jack on the passenger side again to try and make room on the drivers side for the spring, or do some variation of that, and buy a coil spring compressor for that side?  I'm sure I'm missing something, and I apologize if this is worded terribly.  My first go around at any suspension work, but I would like to do it myself.

[Eagle]

Get your new control arms installed first, so you can reposition the axle. Then install the springs, using spring compressors.

[DirtyComanche]

I bought a 'Master' ball joint cup set from Astro Pneumatic, even with that I would up modifying a set of cups to do the BJs on the D30.  Also, I bought an OTC BJ press after I got sick of blowing up the Chinese ones, it is much better and made in the USA.

 

I believe if you buy this OTC kit you should be covered though: https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-8031-Ball-Joint-Truck/dp/B000O1E52E/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1487487111&sr=8-9&keywords=ball+joint+press (you can get it off amazon.com or a US retailer for much less)

 

I bought all Moog steering, because I feel it is acceptable quality.  I went with a V8 ZJ tie rod (you need the tie rod, the adjuster sleeve, and the tie rod end, all separate) as it is beefier than the stock junk.  I always went with a later (97+ or something) XJ drag link, adjuster sleeve, and drag link end (at the pitman arm) as again these parts are something of an upgrade over the OEM early stuff.  The Moog catalog for this stuff is IMHO quite confusing, I believe I put the P/Ns in my build thread, but otherwise I would recommend going to a parts store and piecing it together there to make sure it is all correct.  However I ordered everything off Rockauto and managed to get it right, and I'm smart like dumptruck, so it is possible to figure out.

 

Also I bought a 'flipsert' for the driver side knuckle, allowing me to put the tie rod on top of the steering arm.  I got it from TMR Customs, IIRC, as they make the better type.  It should be welded in, I certainly welded mine in, but you will hear of guys that just drilled the knuckle out and dropped them in.  Anyways, it does a lot to correct the goofy geometry of the steering once you're lifted more than a couple inches.

 

If you want to spend more money there is other options for full aftermarket steering replacement kits.  If you go this route, don't get anything with Heim joints, they typically wear out super fast on the street.

[WyoCherokee]

I ran the ZJ Settring with 32" tires. it worked perfect for my needs and didnt break the bank.

 

As far as getting the new coils in... the trick is to jack up the front part of the frame as much as you can. I always set my 6 ton stands as high as they will go, and set the frame on  that. Unhook your drag link from the pitman arm, unhook the track bar from the frame bracket, and unhook your lower control arms. the axle will drop down far enough to allow you to take the coils out with some minor coaxing. Even with 4.5" RE Coils. Now is a good time to drill and tap your coil buckets for the "hockey puck bumpstop" and/or install a longer daystar bumpstop in the factory location(you cannot do this with the coils in place). I would advise against a coil spring compressor. It can be dangerous if not done properly and simply isnt needed for 4.5" and shorter coils. One you get the new coils in place, jack up the axle until you can put one lower control arm in. I like to use ratchet straps hooked to  another vehicle to align the axle and get the bolts in. Once you have the LCA's in place, hook your steering back up(you may have to adjust the drag link for the increased length. Then mesaure your axle for center on the vehicle using whatever you can for equal reference. YOu may need to shake the rig back and forth to get it centered. then adjsut your track bar end and re-install the frame bracket. Additionally before hooking the TB up, i would suggest upgrading to the RE system which includes a flex joint, frame brace and beefer frame bracket.

[btipsword1]

Thanks for the replies guys, please enlighten me on bumpstops.  I am under the impression the factory "bump stop" is the dried up piece of crap where the top of the springs sit?  Assuming the purpose of this is to contact the lower spring seat when fully compressed for several reasons, but why would you need hockey puck, or any other method at the lower spring seat as well as the upper?  I plan on just getting the daystar upper replacement, but don't want to make any big mistakes.  Like i posted earlier, I will likely not be taking this offroad often or on anything difficult, I live in Illinois it's hard to even find a damn hill! If i put an extended stop on the upper spring seat area, won't this make it more difficult to shoehorn my 4.5" coils in there as well?

[Eagle]

Thanks for the replies guys, please enlighten me on bumpstops.  I am under the impression the factory "bump stop" is the dried up piece of crap where the top of the springs sit?  Assuming the purpose of this is to contact the lower spring seat when fully compressed for several reasons, but why would you need hockey puck, or any other method at the lower spring seat as well as the upper?

 

The purpose of bump stops is to limit the distance the suspension can travel in compression, so it won't damage other components. If you add a 4-1/2" lift, you'll almost certainly be running longer shock absorbers, and their compressed length will be longer than the space available if the suspension is fully compressed to the original, factory bump stops. So in order to forestall damage to the shocks, you want to limit the suspension travel so it stops before you reach the compressed length of whatever shocks you're running.

 

If you're not going to take it off-road, which are you lifting it?

[btipsword1]

Eagle,

That's the best I've heard it described. I looked through several articles and it never really clicked, but after reading that I completely understand their purpose now. Simply put, I'm lifting it because I want to. Thanks again Eagle and everyone else for the help, I appreciate it

[WyoCherokee]

Thanks for the replies guys, please enlighten me on bumpstops. I am under the impression the factory "bump stop" is the dried up piece of crap where the top of the springs sit? Assuming the purpose of this is to contact the lower spring seat when fully compressed for several reasons, but why would you need hockey puck, or any other method at the lower spring seat as well as the upper? I plan on just getting the daystar upper replacement, but don't want to make any big mistakes. Like i posted earlier, I will likely not be taking this offroad often or on anything difficult, I live in Illinois it's hard to even find a damn hill! If i put an extended stop on the upper spring seat area, won't this make it more difficult to shoehorn my 4.5" coils in there as well?

Bump stops keep your shocks from bottoming out. I highly doubt you will need to add hockey pucks, butt you will for sure need to add longer upper stops. Daystar makes a set that will for 4.5"lift with 31 to 33 inch tires

[WyoCherokee]

 

 

Thanks for the replies guys, please enlighten me on bumpstops. I am under the impression the factory "bump stop" is the dried up piece of crap where the top of the springs sit? Assuming the purpose of this is to contact the lower spring seat when fully compressed for several reasons, but why would you need hockey puck, or any other method at the lower spring seat as well as the upper?

The purpose of bump stops is to limit the distance the suspension can travel in compression, so it won't damage other components. If you add a 4-1/2" lift, you'll almost certainly be running longer shock absorbers, and their compressed length will be longer than the space available if the suspension is fully compressed to the original, factory bump stops. So in order to forestall damage to the shocks, you want to limit the suspension travel so it stops before you reach the compressed length of whatever shocks you're running.

 

If you're not going to take it off-road, which are you lifting it?

Tire size also plays a major role.

[Eagle]

Hockey pucks are used if you don't install longer bump stops.

 

Tire size has nothing to do with it. The bump stops are to protect the shock absorbers. If you add more bump stop than necessary to protect the shocks in order to keep big tires from hitting the bodywork, you're limiting suspension travel. Either trim the bodywork ( :eek:  EEK!) or run smaller tires.