Whiz Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 I noticed recently after doing some work on the truck, that there was some fluid running down the passenger front tire, on the inside. First thought was brake fluid, but don't believe this is the case. Anyone else had this happen? Joint/axle leak? Thanks in Advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Inner seal on your axle shaft is leaking gear oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 What he said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiz Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiz Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 So, in reading up on replacing the seal. Since I have a Posi-loc I most likely need to replace the seal on the CAD. Not the one inside the Dana 30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Yes, with cad there isn't one on the passenger side of the diff housing just in the cad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiz Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Great, seems like a real Pita getting the new seal installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 It is. The removal is easy, it's the instillation that's a PITA. I made a tool with all thread, a few nuts and washers. Didn't work quite right, screwed one seal up luckily I had a spare intended for my other jeep, Which I centered a little better, still came very close to pressing it too far. If I had been doing this job at home with all my tools I would have used the new seal as a template and cut a piece of wood to press it in. There is a company selling a tool, but it cost over $100. I'll look it up. They have a kit with 2 seals, QK4801 $116+ shipping. Quad4x4.com I have no experience with them and don't know how good their products are. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 I'd be a good time to get some solid axle shafts and get rid of the posi lock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiz Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 It is. The removal is easy, it's the instillation that's a PITA. I made a tool with all thread, a few nuts and washers. Didn't work quite right, screwed one seal up luckily I had a spare intended for my other jeep, Which I centered a little better, still came very close to pressing it too far. If I had been doing this job at home with all my tools I would have used the new seal as a template and cut a piece of wood to press it in. There is a company selling a tool, but it cost over $100. Ya, I saw that tool, crazy cost. I'd be a good time to get some solid axle shafts and get rid of the posi lock. Yes I have thought about hitting the Pull a part and just get the one piece axle. If I go that route, any other Mod I need?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBpunk Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Not 100% but I think just new seals and a block off plate for the vacuum panel on the axle. I'd say go all out and just throw in a new axle but then you're looking at tie rod ends, steering and ball joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Re: one piece axel assembly(?) You might need Front drive shaft possibly, for one that balanced to be spinning all the time. I can't see what year you have with this app, if you've got a old np207 (86 only MJ?) you'd need the yoke for the np231 too. Just replacing the axel shaft I've heard the place for the seal near the pumpkin might not be there or difficult to get sealed. I'm sure somebody know how to convert a CAD better than I do only reading about it . You could make your own tool to press in the CAD seal, I failed in my first attempt years ago but got it more or less right with a few dollars in parts from Home Depot, but I will say it frustrating because it's easy to remove and start to seat the new seal, but a major pain to press it in far enough. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiz Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 I have not gone that deep in research yet. I have a 87 and doing nothing but research right now. No experience with this at all. Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 87, you should have a np231 transfer case. And the front yoke and drive shaft I think is similar to later years except for maybe being balanced. I've heard the early Dana 30 are harder to convert from CAD. But it's not firsthand knowledge . Personally I'd swap the axel from a none CAD over conversion. So far I've just repaired the CAD axel seals on my jeeps. A much simpler job than tearing it all apart. But if the other side needs replacing then I don't know which way is best. Here is a video on CAD conversion Here is a video on replacing the seals, around 2:00 he gets to the CAD seal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiz Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Thanks! How did you repair the CAD axle seals? Or do you mean replace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Green Mesa XJ Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Thanks! How did you repair the CAD axle seals? Or do you mean replace? What I meant to say was I replaced the seals on the CAD instead of converting it to a one piece axel shaft or swapping the axel out. It's the simplest fix, no other big jobs to do at the same time if it's only the seal on that side.Still found it frustrating because there's no reliable simple way to press the seal back. Unless you get a tool or the part of it designed for the seal. Plenty of reasons not to like the CAD design, plenty of ways to adapt and modify the current axel or swap it out. Depends on what you need to do and your goal for your jeep. For us our jeeps hardly ever see serious off road time any more so the old CAD system is fine for now. BTW ours leaked for awhile before I had the time and all the steps planned out. Just kept topping off the fluid, but it was fairly slow leak and the jeep spent its time on the road not the trail. On the trail you could get mud or water inside the axel with the seals leaking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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