JeepFanactic Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Yesterday I started my AX-15 swap on my 87 MJ 4.0 2wd. First off let me start by saying that I have never undertook a project like this. This was my first time dropping the peugeot ba 10/5 transmision let alone any transmission for that matter. It took me and the wife 2 days to drop it because I wanted to make sure that it was done correctly and I was in no rush. I read numerous write ups on how to do it and for the most part removing the transmission was fairly easy. The torx bolts were not a problem at all everyone suggested to use 3 feet of extensions and that made the job go smooth. Before I proceed with installing the AX-15 I have a couple of concerns. First everyone suggested that my stock driveshaft will need to be cut to size. When I was comparing my 1998 Jeep Cherokee transfer case the output shaft looked totally different than my stock driveshaft. Did I get the wrong transfer case or will I have to get a different drive shaft? Second I used the harbor freight transmission jack that everyone sugested on here and that worked awesome. But the peugeot ba 10/5 is a baby compared to the AX-15. Would it be easier to attach the tranny and transfer case together or seperate them.. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87MJTIM Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 When I did my swap, I attached the trans and tcase before the install. There a six nuts that hold the two together. Two up top are a witch to fasten when the trans is in first. As for the tcase, the one you got may have a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE). Then yes, you will need to modify your drive shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 are you talking about the newer sealed rear output vs open design of the older t-cases? old: newer: I also mated the trans and t-case before installing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 Just reinstalled my AX15 today. Floor jack was holding the engine, I am working on the ground (no jack stands) so I have to put the tranny on the HF jack under the vehicle. Did the tcase by myself while HF jack was holding tranny. Bolts on top of tcase aren't bad if you use a 12" extension on the driver's side and a stubby 9/16" wrench on the passenger. Or go in from the top (how I broke them loose originally). Plus this way you can put the linkage for the tcase in with the bracket loose (it bolts to top two bolts on drivers side). Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 P.S. I have the older style NP231 shown in the above picture. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted January 2, 2017 Author Share Posted January 2, 2017 are you talking about the newer sealed rear output vs open design of the older t-cases? old: newer: I also mated the trans and t-case before installing them. Yes Pete... I have the newer style NP231. When I compared my 2wd driveshaft to the newer TC there is no way the DS is going to slip back on. Do I need to get the older style TC to make everything work? I never thought abought using another strap to secure the tranny. The pictures cleared that right up. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 are you talking about the newer sealed rear output vs open design of the older t-cases? old: newer: I also mated the trans and t-case before installing them. Yes Pete... I have the newer style NP231. When I compared my 2wd driveshaft to the newer TC there is no way the DS is going to slip back on. Do I need to get the older style TC to make everything work? I never thought abought using another strap to secure the tranny. The pictures cleared that right up. Thanks Your 2wd drive shaft wouldn't work anyway. You need to have it cut down in length or buy a shorter one. I'd keep the newer style TC, as the rear output shaft is sealed, where as the old one isn't sealed without the rear shaft. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 yup. what Jeff said. :thumbsup: also, something in the back of my head says the spline counts of the yokes (2wd peugeot vs late model 231) is different. make sure the yoke fits before trying to measure for the new shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 yup. what Jeff said. :thumbsup: also, something in the back of my head says the spline counts of the yokes (2wd peugeot vs late model 231) is different. make sure the yoke fits before trying to measure for the new shaft. Where can I find a driveshaft that will work with the newer transfercase? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Your best bet is probably to find a complete driveshaft from a later 4x4 XJ with the sealed output and take it and the 2wd shaft to a driveshaft shop and have the shop choose whether they want to lengthen the XJ shaft or shorten the MJ shaft with the yoke from the XJ shaft on it. The reason why I say bring both is because I understand the 2wd shafts are larger and have rubber in them as a vibration damper, and there are some shops that won't touch them with the rubber inside. Arguably you just need the yoke from the newer shaft. Measure the needed length the way the shop recommends, or if possible, have them do the measuring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Usually cheaper to have a ds shortened. There is a chart for ds lengths around. Find your combo and find the length. Maybe measure to confirm. Or just install a front ds and drive it to the shop in 4wd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekaz1 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 or order brand new from tom woods driveshaft. mine was only like $200 shipped to my house. and its lifetime warranteed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 or order brand new from tom woods driveshaft. mine was only like $200 shipped to my house. and its lifetime warranteed Thanks i'll look into it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 What would I have to use for the speedo and reverse lights? The newer TC does not have anywhere to hook up the speedo cable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue88Comanche Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 What would I have to use for the speedo and reverse lights? There is a connector for the reverse light on the transmission. I spliced the AX15 connector to the BA10 reverse light harness. The speedometer cable will need to be replaced with a longer 4wd version, as its in the Transfer case instead of the transmission. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 What would I have to use for the speedo and reverse lights? There is a connector for the reverse light on the transmission. I spliced the AX15 connector to the BA10 reverse light harness. The speedometer cable will need to be replaced with a longer 4wd version, as its in the Transfer case instead of the transmission. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk The newer transfer case has a totally different plug for the speedometer than my 87 MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 yes, pull that plug out and replace it with the older style from a junkyard t-case. be aware that the shafts inside may be a different length and so you might need to swap the gears around (they pull right off). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 Thanks for all the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 also, if you've never dealt with speedo gears before, the different tooth counts correspond to different tire-size/gear-ratio combos. there are charts floating around to help you figure out which gear you'll need. oh, and the t-case insert rotates to accommodate the different gears. google should be able to find a writeup or 2 so you can see what I'm talking about. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepFanactic Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 also, if you've never dealt with speedo gears before, the different tooth counts correspond to different tire-size/gear-ratio combos. there are charts floating around to help you figure out which gear you'll need. oh, and the t-case insert rotates to accommodate the different gears. google should be able to find a writeup or 2 so you can see what I'm talking about. :thumbsup: Thanks Pete for all the help. I'm sure I'll be back on here to ask for more help. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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