Tex06 Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Ok, it's finally gotten to me. My driver's side door doesn't completely seal when it closes. I believe the hinge has sagged some, I've adjusted the door twice (and the door latch striker many many more times), but I have a gap I can see through when the door is "closed" (i.e. I can't rattle it). Also, it rattles when I hit a big enough bump like it's not completely closed (well because it's not, the weather stripping isn't even touching). The striker is completely closed, you do have to slam the door a bit each time to get it to fully seat. Is there an easy way to fix a sagging hinge? Or could this be something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 Is the upper hinge pulling away from the door post, or does it just need new hinge pins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 20, 2016 Author Share Posted December 20, 2016 What angle should I be looking at to check for pulling away? Also, good source for hinge pins? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 I accidentally backed up with the door open and a concrete pole at the gas station caught the door and about ripped it off the truck... had to pound the hinges a good bit with a hammer to get it to close half decent. Now I have to really slam it for it to not rattle. My problem is the mounts welds being broken and the mount sagging due to it. Any easy fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desbennett004 Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 A friend fixed my door for me, you lever it up with a wooden 2x4 at the bottom of the door, and you put a small 2x4 on the inside of the bottom of the door, so you don't end up bending it. He used to work in a body shop, he said that's how they would fix door sag 90% of the time. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 A friend fixed my door for me, you lever it up with a wooden 2x4 at the bottom of the door, and you put a small 2x4 on the inside of the bottom of the door, so you don't end up bending it. He used to work in a body shop, he said that's how they would fix door sag 90% of the time. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Just bend it back essentially? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 I accidentally backed up with the door open and a concrete pole at the gas station caught the door and about ripped it off the truck... had to pound the hinges a good bit with a hammer to get it to close half decent. Now I have to really slam it for it to not rattle. My problem is the mounts welds being broken and the mount sagging due to it. Any easy fix?That sounds like a pull the fender and reweld. Does anyone have a write up on doing this? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desbennett004 Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 I didn't have damaged hinges, just some sag in the door. Might work, might not, depending how damaged your hinges are. Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Body/Hinges.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnj92131 Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Body/Hinges.htm Great site. Never seen it before. THANK YOU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVPete Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 WrenchMonkey posted this in DIY...... http://comancheclub.com/topic/14466-broken-door-hinge-welds-cheap-n-easy-fix/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 WrenchMonkey posted this in DIY...... http://comancheclub.com/topic/14466-broken-door-hinge-welds-cheap-n-easy-fix/ I wonder if he only uses that one hinge for the door now? Says nothing about the bottom hinge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Here are some pics, now that I feel like I kinda know what I'm looking for.....maybe it's just flattened weatherstrip? Upper Hinge (Looking at it with door open) Another view of the upper hinge. I don't see any distortion, cracking of the paint, rust, or broken welds. Lower hinge on same door for comparison. Again, no signs of problems. Crack at top of door where weatherstrip doesn't make contact with door. Rainwater comes in thru here occasionally when driving. I can also lift the door slightly when it is fully closed (the source of my rattle) but it takes a bit of strength. Not like when the door is only "Half-closed" and rattles easily. Daylight visible from inside at the top of the door when fully closed. Same as above but backed the camera up for perspective. More daylight at bottom rear corner of window (Just above door latch) Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 28, 2016 Author Share Posted December 28, 2016 Also, there is no slop in the hinge pins that I could see. Opened the door fully and lifted on the end of it, rocks the whole truck. I would think that any slop would be seen with that test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 29, 2016 Share Posted December 29, 2016 Also, there is no slop in the hinge pins that I could see. Opened the door fully and lifted on the end of it, rocks the whole truck. I would think that any slop would be seen with that test. Yes, worn pins would allow you to feel the door moving when you lift it. The doors are attached to the hinges with aligning shims. You may just need to play with the shims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 Yes, worn pins would allow you to feel the door moving when you lift it. The doors are attached to the hinges with aligning shims. You may just need to play with the shims. Anywhere to buy shims? Or are those a JY option? I ask because my truck has none between door and hinge. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVPete Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 I made some shims out of thin scrap sheet metal (actually an old breadmaker) using a pair of scissors and a file since there are not any junkyards worth a crap in my area. Their shape is like an "E" and they slide in from the top. I made them to supplement the factory shims since I was having the same problem your photos show (daylight in the same areas). I have identical factory shims on the top and bottom, I added my homemade shims to the bottom to kick the door up. I don't see any cracking of welds on your hinges from the photos unless they have been re-welded in the past really well. Try opening the door, kneeling, put your knee underneath the end of the door and lift by raising your knee (your foot really). That will be a really good way to check if the hinge pins are worn. Your photo shows a lot of sag that I wouldn't attribute just to missing shims. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted December 31, 2016 Author Share Posted December 31, 2016 Thanks SVPete, but there's no wiggle at all. I've adjusted doors on old Chevys, didn't think about making my own shims. I'll see if I can find a pic of the OEM ones and replicate with my shears and some sheet metal. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tex06 Posted January 3, 2017 Author Share Posted January 3, 2017 Apparently I had a shim from one if my jy visits. For those wondering, they look like this: Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 If and when you replace the weatherstrip or deal between the body and the door use one for a 97 -01 Cherokee. They are an exact fit but are thicker. I had air leaks (but no daylight) around the door on my XJ that went away after installing a junkyard fresh seal. It now takes a firm push to shut the door which could be adjusted out but I kind of like it that way. You can also open the door, roll down the window and open vent wing, put your knee against the inside panel, and pull the top of the door towards you as hard as needed. I did that before replacing the seal which made my daylight gaps turn in to air gaps. The XJ is an 87. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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