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Just walking into the parts store and asking tends to produce blank stares.

 

So true !!  If it's not in the computer it doesn't exist. 

 

I had to go to NAPA and look and compare.  I did not record the specific part #.  Take current stud and a caliper with you and ask the guy/gal to go through the actual BOOK with you.  (HINT: look for the old guy).  

 

I found 2 studs, one 1/2" longer and one 3/8" longer, with the right size and length (and diameter) of shoulder. There wasn't anything we could find that was Jeep or Dana specific and actually fit like I wanted it.  I went with 1/2" longer because I barely had 3/8" sticking out with new wheels on it.

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Try a place that sells parts for trailers

I get mine ar Princess Auto.....they will have u-bolts as well

 

I don't trust any of their trailer stuff with my life.  Some of it is fine, a lot isn't, and I wouldn't be comfortable using a trailer stud in a drive axle application.

 

You could always use a set of the Spidertrax 1.25" spacers in the back. The studs on them are about 1/4" longer than stock and the wheels look better pushed out a bit too.

 

There's already a set of adapters on it.  The problem is because the disk brake rotor is a little thicker than the drum brake hat was, so I have marginal thread engagement on the adapters.  It isn't going to fall off, but it didn't make me feel as warm and fuzzy putting it together as it could have.

 

 

Just walking into the parts store and asking tends to produce blank stares.

 

So true !!  If it's not in the computer it doesn't exist. 

 

I had to go to NAPA and look and compare.  I did not record the specific part #.  Take current stud and a caliper with you and ask the guy/gal to go through the actual BOOK with you.  (HINT: look for the old guy).  

 

I found 2 studs, one 1/2" longer and one 3/8" longer, with the right size and length (and diameter) of shoulder. There wasn't anything we could find that was Jeep or Dana specific and actually fit like I wanted it.  I went with 1/2" longer because I barely had 3/8" sticking out with new wheels on it.

 

 

Unfortunately Dorman made their online stud catalog into a pain in the @$$, so I didn't have much luck with it.  I think the one place here will still have the paper catalogs for this stuff, and I'll probably go see them.  1/2" longer would be great.

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IIRC, the front end wheel studs are longer, and should work. Have them look up for a D30?

 

Nope.  They're not the same knurl diameter.  But studs off a LP front axle are, for some reason.

 

NAXJA says 2003 Rubicon, front or rear, should work.

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IIRC, the front end wheel studs are longer, and should work. Have them look up for a D30?

 

Nope.  They're not the same knurl diameter.  But studs off a LP front axle are, for some reason.

 

NAXJA says 2003 Rubicon, front or rear, should work.

 

Proven or "specs" on the wheel studs? If they are different, I suppose that something changed when they changed UB's?

Even if they are different, I was partially correct.

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Dorman 610-449, for the record.

 

Gonna go look at them in person...

 

So you think the doorman stud would be stronger than the Rockwell American 7000 lb ?

 

Equal to or stronger, yes.  No hard numbers to back it up, but trailer axles do not see torque loading with the exception of what the brakes apply to them.  Typically trailer parts are junk.  Typically stuff sold at PA is Chinese junk with 'American' sounding names to try to mislead you.  No, I don't know where that brand is made, no I didn't go to PA and price them out or look at them.  Also, you could not pay me enough to run a trailer ubolt on my truck.  Same for most of the junk included in lift kits.  For the record I was almost killed by a failed ubolt.

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