kook911 Posted July 4, 2016 Share Posted July 4, 2016 I saw this picture posted on someone else post but I can not find the post. I am trying to add ac back into my comanche. If anyone knows where the post I am looking for is please point me in the right direction. But if all I need to do is buy all new components and Ill be good to go let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 If you want to stay with what you got and if that expansion valve is still good. hoping you have no other leaks. all you need is a new hose and a receiver/drier. that is all total after market setup you got! If you want to go at least something close to original, you will need a new expansion valve a new receiver/drier and high/low presure hoses. If you have no leaks in your core, you should be able to do everthing without opening you HVAC box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kook911 Posted July 5, 2016 Author Share Posted July 5, 2016 If you want to stay with what you got and if that expansion valve is still good. hoping you have no other leaks. all you need is a new hose and a receiver/drier. that is all total after market setup you got! If you want to go at least something close to original, you will need a new expansion valve a new receiver/drier and high/low presure hoses. If you have no leaks in your core, you should be able to do everthing without opening you HVAC box. So how would I know if that expansion valve is still good? Anyway of knowing if I could swap in a different expansion valve? If I just buy a complete kit off of eBay or rock auto do I just go with my year? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 I am not sure what the complete kits include. almost everything is the same from 87 to 92, but the a/c compressor. I think 87 and 88 had a diffrent mount, however I could be wrong and it is just 87. Most of the time expansion valve's just don't brake, they normally just get gummed up and can be cleaned. Either way you go your going to need some hoses and a receiver/drier. I always make my own hoses so I don't know what is avalible. I would start off getting the expansion valve for it, and then I would get a cheap universal receiver/drier, so that later you don't have to search for the comanche version receiver/drier in future. then you just need your hoses, which can be made for 30 to 40 dollars each. your a/c compressor may or may not be good that your going to have to test. once you get hooked up vacuum it down and make sure it holds for 20 to 30 minutes. then filler her up. make sure to put your PAG oil in the system before you add your 134a.a full system will need 3 1/2 cans of 12oz. walmart has 12oz cans on sale for 5 dollars a piece right now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 :hijack: This question is for Nori. You seem to know your A/C stuff. My rig is still R12 and my A/C is still chugging along - have to add a can about every other year. Unfortunately I'm now out of R12, and this time I'm going to try a substitute, environmental friendly Red Tek R12a refrigerant. The manufacturer claims it's compatible with R12 and there are several positive reviews on it. Maybe throw in a can of stop-leak while I'm at it. Any comments yea or nay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 hornbrod yea that is a Alkane / Hydrocarbon substitute for r12. I have used that for some old r12 unite that the people don't want converted. It seems to work very well and the molecules are larger, which means they don't seep thru the cracks as much, but good for lower PSI like r12. Red Angel AC Stop Leak & Conditioner works with the r12 and I seen it take a system from 6 month charges to 2 years between charges. So yea give it a Go... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted July 5, 2016 Share Posted July 5, 2016 hornbrod yea that is a Alkane / Hydrocarbon substitute for r12. I have used that for some old r12 unite that the people don't want converted. It seems to work very well and the molecules are larger, which means they don't seep thru the cracks as much, but good for lower PSI like r12. Red Angel AC Stop Leak & Conditioner works with the r12 and I seen it take a system from 6 month charges to 2 years between charges. So yea give it a Go... Good to hear. Thanks! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tadchad Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Is this R12 or R134a??? I need to replace it, it is leaking out the front of the clutch, just bought it and previous owner stated he hasn't charged it in a few weeks, no cold air, so no need to vac the lines right? also since the lines are probably empty can I purchase a newer r134a system and just hook it up to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tadchad Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 Here is a better picture in this link; Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marine1Texas Posted August 16, 2016 Share Posted August 16, 2016 It looks like r12 and not been upgraded from the connectors that are on it now. If it is leaking from the front of the compressor you have the option of using that R12 substitute or 134a. If it is r12 and you do the 134a conversion ur best bet is to do it all at once so your not have any future repairs. a new receiver/drier, you can not mix R12 with 134a receiver/drier will clog, also the oil is not the same. Then you just buy the new 134a fittings that will screw on the old r12 fittings. and of course a new compressor. don't forget the Pag oil. If it is r12 and you want to stay with r12, your best bet to keep a good fix, replace that compressor and a new receiver/drier. A new receiver/drier will keep the system clean from any humidity that will or is been exposed, because of a leak. don't forget when replacing the compressor your need the oil that is compatible with the r12. If it is a r12, and r12 tend to leak less since lower pressure, make sure the vacuum stay down . best bet 20 to 30 minutes of vacuum, if not lost anything your good to add your oil and Freon. The AC lines are not original I can see that clearly. They look like newer 2003 plus year design. That means they should have the 134a/r12 compatible Orings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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