Drag Link Replacement

[buckwheat]

So I am completely replacing the steering on my truck. I have the tie rod, TREs,  and sway bar from a 98 Grand Cherokee. However, I didn't think about the drag link, and I would like to replace that as well. I found some Moog part numbers from a post in the DIY section, but wasn't sure they would play well with the other pieces I have from the Grand Cherokee. Can someone confirm that

 

Moog DS1046 Tie Rod End  - Goes from passenger knuckle  and connects to 

Moog ES2080S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve - which would connet to

Moog ES2222L Tie Rod End - which finally connects to the pitman arm

 

will work for me?

 

And I am slightly confused by the names here. Aren't these pieces the 'drag link' and not part of the 'tie rod ends'?

 

[HOrnbrod]

That's how the drag link is labeled by aftermarket parts companies and is correct. It's composed of three pieces, two tie rod ends, and an adjusting sleeve. The 3-piece drag link assembly for the ZJ w. the 5.2 engine is slightly thicker than the 4.0 MJ/XJ drag link, and the threads are larger (22mm vs. 20mm IIRC), so you can't mix the pieces. Either assembly will work for you, but since you are going with the ZJ stuff, go with the larger ZJ drag link too. That's what I'm using. Every little bit helps.    :thumbsup:

 

These are the Mopar part numbers for the ZJ 5.2 drag link. You can cross them to the Moog equivalents if that's what you are using.

 

END, Tie Rod, 52037994
TUBE, 52037536
END, Tie Rod (Rt. Hand Th’d), 52005739

[buckwheat]

Thanks Don. Part numbers are really nice to have.

 

Just in case someone sees this in the future and wants the Moog part numbers, here is what I ordered from Amazon:

Moog DS1310

Moog ES3096L

Moog ES2079S

 

Moog didn't have a cross over for TUBE, 52037536, so here is hoping the ES2079S is what is needed.

Hopefully when it comes in everything fits perfectly and I can get my truck back on the road.

[ParadiseMJ]

If you want to beef it up a bit, use the V8 ZJ tie rod.  It's thicker AND it's solid...as opposed to a hollow tube .  It's noticeably heavier...and has a bend around the front diff. I put one on my XJ and noticed that my steering was "firmer"...so I put one on the MJ too.  It's a direct bolt-on and I believe it uses beefier TRE's...IIRC.

[ParadiseMJ]

 

Hopefully when it comes in everything fits perfectly and I can get my truck back on the road.

 

Use this very important tool.

 

 

 

Measure everything (the old stuff) while it's still on the truck, then adjust BEFORE you put the new stuff on the truck, so when you install the new, it will be very close to your old set-up.  Then it's a real good idea to go have an alignment done...THEN get it back on the road...just a suggestion.

[buckwheat]

Thanks for the thoughts ParadiseMJ. I am swapping out everything for V8 ZJ stuff. I hope to be able to comfortably drive 70mph again rather than white knuckle driving at 60mph. Truck was getting a little shaking at speed and especially going over bumps.

 

Part of the impetus for this was to adjust caster and camber angles. So that should go a long way to making it drive better. I will make sure to check toe in before I take it to an alignment shop.

 

Anyone have any other ideas/ comments/ etc?

[DirtyComanche]

Unless you have adjustable ball joints, camber shims, or a desire to bend your front axle, camber isn't really adjustable.

 

Knowing what I know now, and owning a tape measure, ratchet straps, two pieces of angle iron, and an inexpensive digital angle finder, I would never take a SFA truck to a professional alignment shop.

 

Do you have a lift?  The factory method of adjusting caster is to place shims in the rear of the LCA pockets, there is a fork assembly in there which is loosened and shims are added or subtracted between it and the pocket to slightly move the mounting hole.  Personally I think it's a completely terrible setup and normally the nuts/studs break off if you try to do it.  If you have a lift I would suggest buying some adjustable control arms.  Caster can then be set by adjusting them, place the angle finder on the face of the differential housing to determine relative angle.  In actual practice I often skip getting too technical on that, and instead I set the toe by ratchet strapping the angle iron to the tires, measuring across in front and behind the tires, and adjusting for 1/8"-1/4" toe in, then drive it and see how it is.  Add caster until it feels better.  Unless you have nowhere to start, in which case I'd suggest starting around 3* and expecting to wind up in the 5-6* range.  If it still won't drive well, something is worn out, the axle/C is bent, or you should add more toe in.

 

If you have an adjustable track bar, make sure the axle is centered first before doing anything.  Make sure this is set with normal driving weight on the wheels, the axle moves side to side as the suspension compresses/droops.  The easiest way I've found to do it is with a plumb bob taped to the fenders on each side, but there probably is slicker ways.

 

When adjusting the inverted-Y type steering, make sure all adjustments are done with normal driving weight on the wheels.  The toe changes as the suspension compresses/droops.  Also, start by centering the steering wheel with the P/S tire straight, then set the toe on the D/S tire.

 

I don't recall if the D30 center section is in line with the caster though, I haven't aligned one in a coon's age.  You might want to look that up.

 

Anyways, I guarantee you if you do follow those steps you will get it aligned as well or better than will be done on a professional alignment rack.

[buckwheat]

I did put in some camber shims. I was at -1.3* on the passenger side and -1.5* on the driver side according to the local alignment shop. So I found a +1* shim and put that behind the unit bearing. Does anyone know if i will also need to find a way to shim the caliper to match?

 

And I do have a lift and recently put on adjustable control arms just so I can control my caster. I was planning on putting the gauge on the top of my new upper ball joint and getting as close to 7* as possible. I haven't heard of putting it on the diff cover before. I would think that makes it harder to adjust one side versus another.

 

Good reminder on having the truck on its tires to do all my measuring and setting. 

 

Thanks for all the help gents.