lift comming :~)

[Cabz]

I called rustys today and ordered my MJ lift :D , 4.5" with the 4" rear packs.

 

I also have a line on a warn winch bumper for the ole girl, hopefully in the next two weeks I'll have it lifted and set.

 

Is there anything I should be wary of when lifting the MJ, any problems I might run into? the ole MJ has no rust and so far everything I have had to unbolt has come off with ease ( of course now that I have said that :shock: )

[Stumpy]

Is there anything I should be wary of when lifting the MJ, any problems I might run into? the ole MJ has no rust and so far everything I have had to unbolt has come off with ease ( of course now that I have said that :shock: )

 

yup ya just jinxed yourself...hehe pb blaster some of the nuts/bolts the day before ya start just to make things easier.

[mr4x4]

I had no prob. lifting my mj which had no or little rust

but i did have to cut one bolt off cause the torx side rounded out on the front axle (drivers side upper controll arm)

[CWLONGSHOT]

Nothing really out of the ordinary.....

 

Here is a couple of the top of my head....You will need a longer rod for the rear prop valve. Longer brake lines, (YJ fronts and a '96 Dakota rear work well) Adj front track bar. (All commonly overlooked)

 

The front CA bolts CAN be an issue, start spraying with penetrating oil well in advance. Factory replacements are EXPENSIVE!!! I think I paid 60+$ for the setof 8!!! Grade 8 replacements are acceptable and much cheaper!!! The lowers and top uppers are 9/16" I believe as the factory are metric Front uppers are smaller..can't remember the size.....

 

The Leaf spring bolts will also likely give you problems, ESP the front. Buy new grade 8 bolts (6 total)and cut the old. U bolts should NEVER be reused, so have new on hand and just cut the old. BUSHINGS for the springs, most do NOT come with them. ASK and have them in hand. I not a huge fan of poly , mostly because of the squeaks, but DAYSTAR (pn DYSKJ02008BK-1) IN BLK POLY, make a good set. MOOG is avalible from local parts suppliers, as well.

 

I reciently found these leafs, I am on the fence about them, post up what you think after the install, I'd appreciate the input!!

 

ALSO, buy your self a large can of anti sleeze, put it on every nut and bolt you THINK you may want to be able to remove. Its AWESOME stuff!!!

 

GOOD luck,

CW

[pingpong]

The front axle bushing holes (bushing) are bigger then the UCA bolt holes, might want to redrill the uca's to eliminate that popping that has been known to happen with the shifting of the front axle.

 

12TON jackstands are the $h!t. I can still use them to suppost my ride and swap rear axles out w/o having to stack things to get enough height.

 

Get an alignment as soon as you finish installing your lift. Loc-tight everything. Use lock nuts on everything. Have plenty of beer on hand so you can bribe your friends to help you. Instal everything tight, lower it onto the ground and then torque to specs.

 

 

That should cover it.

 

 

 

Patrick

[CWLONGSHOT]

The front axle bushing holes (bushing) are bigger then the UCA bolt holes, might want to redrill the uca's to eliminate that popping that has been known to happen with the shifting of the front axle.

 

EXCELLENT TIP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I never thought of that!!

I am puttin' in some ACOS and 4 new R.E. CA's this week end....I am gonna do just that!!!!

 

CW

[pingpong]

I also recomend using poly bushings there, don't do lie I did 6 months ago and used rubber, now I have to replace them cause of slop. I was hoping not to have to put any money into my current set-up. Guess I hoped wrong.

 

 

Patrick