Brake upgrade

[Jaime]

Hello,

 

It is time for me to do the brakes on my 88 4x4 long bed. I wanted to do the WJ Master Cylinder and Booster upgrade along with eliminating the load sensing valve, if needed, and pads and shoes. I'm pretty sure I have the booster and master cylinder figured out but I need some guidance on the load sensing valve. 

 

How do I connect the lines to the Proportioning block? 

 

What kind of connectors are needed at the wheel cylinders and what T junction do I use?

 

Do I use the Proportioning block from the donor WJ, my truck, or do I use an after market block ( and which one)?

 

How can I test my load sensing valve to test if I even need to eliminate it?

 

I am using the examples in the DIY section but I can't find anything on these questions. I have also done a search but can't find a answer to my questions. I do remember Pete posting a diagram of how to route the lines and someone else using an adjustable proportioning block for the back brakes. But I can't seem to find them and get any feedback on the adjustable one. How is it working after time in use.

 

I am going to the pick a part this weekend to pull what I can and hopefully complete this project this weekend as this is my daily driver. So any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank You Jaime

[Eagle]

http://comancheclub.com/topic/4695-mj-to-xj-pop-valve/

[Jaime]

Hello,

 

I finished the upgrade on my 88 4x4. I installed WJ booster and master cylinder and eliminated the load sensing valve. Replaced the pads, shoes, drums and rotors. It was a quite a chore, especially in this 100 plus degree weather out here.

 

I have one big problem. The new front passenger rotor rubs on the metal sheet metal plate behind the rotor. I asked the Autozone clerk if there was a left and right rotor. The answer was no. If I put the old driver side rotor on the passenger side it rubs but the old passenger side rotor does not. The part number of the Autozone rotor is 5108.

 

Can anyone tell me if there is a left and right rotor do I need to find a new vendor and what part number do I use.

 

Thanks again.

[mikekaz1]

there is no right or left rotor, both are the same. my guess is the original passenger rotor was just worn perfectly around that backing plate.  take the rotor off and smack the backing plate with a hammer to bend it out. or pull the hub and remove the backing plate all together,

 

personally I remove the backing plate on all of my vehicles. I don't care about "extra dust"  and for me it allows the rotor to be cleaned out easier, from rocks/mud/debris, and makes me believe cooling is more effective as theres nothing blocking the back or top of the fins

[Rockfrog]

The dust shield is likely bent. Either bend it accordingly to stop rubbing, or remove it. I generally remove them as they catch rocks and hold mud. That, and as a result they are usually too rusted out to reuse anyway.

I've taken both approaches over the years, generally I leave them on only on a street driven vehicle,and remove them on my wheelers.

 

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

[Jaime]

Hello,

 

Well I finished the upgrade and everything seems to be working fine. I ended up hitting the plate with a hammer but that revealed another area that rubbed. The part that the sheet metal screws onto was also rubbing. So I just took a file to it and that solved that problem.

 

Thanks everyone for the help. It is very much appreciated.