Knucklehead97 Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Everyone remember that super clean Comanche I was looking at? The guy got back to me. It is overheating and apparently leaking from the "water outlet" as he calls it. He has replaced the radiator, thermostat, hoses, brake lines, powersteering pump, powersteering lines, waterpump. And multiple other parts. This is a closed system Jeep. So I think he just doesn't know anything about the cooling system. Better yet... I may be able to get this for less than 1000$ due to him not wanting it anymore. What are your thoughts on the cooling problem? He said it may be an air bubble in the radiator. Which he probably also didn't bleed the air from the back of the head. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 The air bubble might be causing the overheating, but it sure isn't causing a leak from the "water outlet", whatever that is. It mat be something as simple as a gasket, or a cracked block. Coolant in the oil or vice-versa? I'd try to narrow it down a little better before buying......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 water outlet Thermostat housing? I've heard them called that before. If that's the case the gasket can be a PITA to get right without leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 If it's under a grand and nearly rust free, snap it up. Engines are cheap, sheet metal isn't. You won't be able to figure out what it is until you have it in your possesion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 I bet he means the outlet on the tstat housing, or the housing itself, as previously said. They corrode, people don't scrape the old gasket off, the hose nipple cracks or is scored from somebody cutting the hose off, etc. You can buy a new one, just make sure you get the right one because the Renix and HO are a little different, IIRC. If it's that, and only that, it's a simple fix. But it could be a cracked head or block potentially, probably not though... I would plan to convert to the open cooling system either way, personally. I was not a fan of this mod previously but I've changed my tune after one too many pressure bottles blew up on me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Oh, and I would pay a grand for that thing without hearing it run. I have a whole driveline sitting in storage for that type of scenario. A clean body is way harder to come by than a good 4.oh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Oh, and I would pay a grand for that thing without hearing it run. I have a whole driveline sitting in storage for that type of scenario. A clean body is way harder to come by than a good 4.oh. Not in Bama. :yes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Update! Already looked at it. Its the tstat housing. I'm betting he installed it wrong. Otherwise ALL of the work was done by a jeep.dealership. water pump, radiator, everything. I got to hear it run and it runs PERFECT. Still waiting on the title to come back. I'm going Monday with a gasket and some coolant to try and get it to stop leaking. If I can get it to stop leaking, then I will be buying it and having it towed to my mechanic so I can work on it and have them work on it. It is already set up for a trailer, which is a plus. Wiring and a ball on a FEY bumper (won't be towing much). I doubt it is the headgasket as there is no oil or coolant in the wrong places. Now, if I buy this, I want to get rid of the stupid closed system by adding a radiator cap to the upper radiator hose. What is the full process of doing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Oh, and I would pay a grand for that thing without hearing it run. I have a whole driveline sitting in storage for that type of scenario. A clean body is way harder to come by than a good 4.oh. Not in Bama. :yes: I suppose. But the 4.0L is like the dandelion, they pop up just about anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 If I get it to stop leaking then we agreed on his bottom dollar of 1000$! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 And the housing is spewing from the gasket and is spewing towards the drivers side of the Jeep. I doubt he cleaned off the old gasket and I doubt he added RTV to both sides of the new gasket. And lastly I doubt he tightened to spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 If it's an '88 with the original, closed cooling system there is no water outlet. The plastic tank on the firewall is an expansion tank, and it's not supposed to be filled more than halfway when cold. As the coolant gets hot, it expands, and the air in the plastic bottle gets compressed to allow for the expansion. Most people don't understand that and haven't read the owner's manual, so they fill it to the top, with the expected result that when the coolant gets hot it blows out around the cap. The closed systems are a PITA to "bleed" when filling. It's actually not rocket science, it just takes a bit of patiece and maybe 20 minutes of time to do it right. If the truck is clean, grab it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Its an 89 and yes it does still have the original. This guy didnt even know how to bleed out all the air from the temp sender, so that is why I'm sure it's an extremely easily fixed coolant problem. I do plan to buy it. I just want to get this leak fixed before I have it towed because it's the only thing I'm worried about. It's clean inside and out. Underneath was beautiful. No mud at all, like my current MJ has. It's been well taken care of. Including a professional paint job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 If you use felpro gasket # 35630 it seals better than the original felpro 35024 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 If you use felpro gasket # 35630 it seals better than the original felpro 35024 . on the thermostat housing? Edit. I found it, thanks! I know Cruiser had a topic recently on adding an inline radiator cap and getting rid of the pressure bottle while keeping a closed system radiator. Anyone have a link to this topic? I can't find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 According to Advance auto's website, that gasket doesnt fit. Looks the same though. I'm guessing it's an HO gasket instead of Renix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 According to Advance auto's website, that gasket doesnt fit. Looks the same though. I'm guessing it's an HO gasket instead of Renix? It fits , yes it's an HO gasket . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 21, 2016 Author Share Posted May 21, 2016 Thanks for letting me know about it. It seems to already have RTV beeds around it which will help a bunch :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 According to Advance auto's website, that gasket doesnt fit. Looks the same though. I'm guessing it's an HO gasket instead of Renix? It fits , yes it's an HO gasket . What's different about it? Material, shape, thickness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Built in sealer bead . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 If you use felpro gasket # 35630 it seals better than the original felpro 35024 .on the thermostat housing? Edit. I found it, thanks! I know Cruiser had a topic recently on adding an inline radiator cap and getting rid of the pressure bottle while keeping a closed system radiator. Anyone have a link to this topic? I can't find it. I have a parts list if you want. Closed to Open cooling system parts 11038 heater hose 11039 heater hose 63745 Moroso 730-4514 rezzy 703-1698 rad cap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Knuck, take a look at page 2 of the below link. Check out how forum member Pike did the cooling system conversion. Easy, neat, and clean. If I had a Renix (I wouldn't), that's how I would do it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48597-ditching-the-renix-pressure-bottle-for-a-filler-neck-in-the-upper-hose/page-2?hl=radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 If you use felpro gasket # 35630 it seals better than the original felpro 35024 .on the thermostat housing? Edit. I found it, thanks! I know Cruiser had a topic recently on adding an inline radiator cap and getting rid of the pressure bottle while keeping a closed system radiator. Anyone have a link to this topic? I can't find it. I have a parts list if you want. Closed to Open cooling system parts 11038 heater hose 11039 heater hose 63745 Moroso 730-4514 rezzy 703-1698 rad cap Thanks a bunch :D I'm guessing it's basically the same process as buying an open cooling radiator and using that instead of the filler neck? When bleeding the air out of the system can I just leave the cap off of the Moroso filler neck and let the engine bleed itself like I did with my other MJ with the open radiator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted May 22, 2016 Author Share Posted May 22, 2016 Knuck, take a look at page 2 of the below link. Check out how forum member Pike did the cooling system conversion. Easy, neat, and clean. If I had a Renix (I wouldn't), that's how I would do it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48597-ditching-the-renix-pressure-bottle-for-a-filler-neck-in-the-upper-hose/page-2?hl=radiator I would love to go that way as it seems like much simpler way to do it. The price on the tank is just a bit out of range currently lol. Plus I love getting that big open space on the firewall when an open system is done :D and come on, you know you want a Renix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 No bleeding needed. And, I found with the aluminum tank that Hordbrod favors, there is no was to see the level without removing the cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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