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S.O.S. tranny or clutch


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The truck

1988 jeep comanche pioneer Olympic edition

Specs

2.5l

5spd (ax5)

D30/35 (4.10)

4x4

5inch lift.

 

The problem.

 

I was going to my girls which is about 8 miles away. As I get off the highway I realize it doesn't wanna shift into 5th with out some love. So as I round the corner to ber place I hear a whine in 1st and 2nd. (i parked it we went out in her car) 3 hours later I get back in the mj to go home. Once again hear a whine in 1st and 2nd goes away with speed. Get on the highway and doesn't wanna go into 5th at all. I get off the exit and go to shift into 2nd/3rd(can't remember) but it doesn't wanna go into any gear I come to a complete stop at the bottom of my hill and pushed the pedal as far as physically possible might of pumped it and I got into first made it up my hill got out of first no problem and into reverse no problem. Back into my spot and now can't get it out of reverse.

 

In addition the truck has under 118000 miles. The clutch kit is less then a year old and maybe 10000 on it. My pedal is stiff(engaging right away maybe a half inch of play) but I think the shop out in a clutch kit for a ba10 instead of an ax5 if it makes a difference.

 

So sorry for the long post tried to be as detailed as possible looking for any insight or answers is it My clutch or my whole tranny.

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They could not have used a clutch for a BA 10/5. The BA 10/5 clutch pressure plate and disk are too large to fit the 4-cul flywheel and bellhousing, and the slave cylinder/throwout bearing is a larger diameter.

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If you have to pump the clutch to get to switch gears...it's either the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder failing...

 

Make sure you don't have fluid running on the back of your fire wall by the fuse box...

This happened to me and I had to replace it....both clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder....(which I changed the clutch anyway because the work involved to change the slave you might as well change out the rest as well)

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Master, hydraulic line, slave, clutch, pressure, flywheel, all got replaced the same time about a year ago. I may do a clutch job this weekend but someone told me due to symptoms it's not the clutch my tranny is shot. So i am trying to get as much info as possible

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Drain plug is on the bottom toward the rear of the transmission.  Google turned this up, post 5.  http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ax-5-fill-plug-drain-plugs-where-they-839118/


I would recommend opening the fill plug first before the drain.  Not only to make the drain smoother, but to also ensure that you can get the fill plug out before you drain all of the oil from the transmission.  That way you know for sure you can get more in there, because sometimes those plugs like to get stuck.

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You just need to remove 4 bokts and pull up your shifter to do it that way. I've done it 5 times in two years myself. Oh, and when you fill it, use yellow metal safe oil. Personally, I've been using synthetic 10w30 with great results.

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I ran a Synthetic 10w30 oil in my trans when I first did my AX-15 swap.  I hated it.
Switched to Redline MT90 (also a synthetic).  I will never go back, I don't care if it costs more.  So much better. Smoother shifting, cooler transmission (No carpet or heat protection so my trans tunnel tells the truth lol) and a lot less noisy.  It's GL4 spec, so it's safe for brass syncros.  Worth every penny.

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Okay so my plan is this weekend to drain and refill my tranny see how that does. I'm getting the tranny from my friend Friday.

 

So from what ive been able to find I can use the tranny he has which is from a 2000 Xj I may just have to use my existing bell housing my internal slave set up and my 231 tcase since it all changed in 95. But the base tranny is the same.

 

Can anyone confirm or deny that's the 2000xj base tranny will work I may just have to swap some parts.

 

Also the tranny is only costing me 100 only one I've found so don't wanna miss

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I ran a Synthetic 10w30 oil in my trans when I first did my AX-15 swap. I hated it.

Switched to Redline MT90 (also a synthetic). I will never go back, I don't care if it costs more. So much better. Smoother shifting, cooler transmission (No carpet or heat protection so my trans tunnel tells the truth lol) and a lot less noisy. It's GL4 spec, so it's safe for brass syncros. Worth every penny.

I may have to try it. I noticed a huge difference going from 75-90 to syn10-30. If you say it's smoother than motor oil, it's probably slick indeed!

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I ran a Synthetic 10w30 oil in my trans when I first did my AX-15 swap. I hated it.

Switched to Redline MT90 (also a synthetic). I will never go back, I don't care if it costs more. So much better. Smoother shifting, cooler transmission (No carpet or heat protection so my trans tunnel tells the truth lol) and a lot less noisy. It's GL4 spec, so it's safe for brass syncros. Worth every penny.

I may have to try it. I noticed a huge difference going from 75-90 to syn10-30. If you say it's smoother than motor oil, it's probably slick indeed!

 

In my opinion it's worth paying the $68 for a gallon of it.  Also a lot less notchy when cold.  Overall it's just better.

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Okay so my plan is this weekend to drain and refill my tranny see how that does. I'm getting the tranny from my friend Friday.

So from what ive been able to find I can use the tranny he has which is from a 2000 Xj I may just have to use my existing bell housing my internal slave set up and my 231 tcase since it all changed in 95. But the base tranny is the same.

Can anyone confirm or deny that's the 2000xj base tranny will work I may just have to swap some parts.

Also the tranny is only costing me 100 only one I've found so don't wanna miss

What's a base tranny?

4cyl 5speed? Or 6cyl 5 speed?

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The truck specs are listed as an 1988 2.5l 5spd. And by base tranny I mean a ax5 without bell housing and tcase. Just the tranny with 1-5 gears. His a out of a 2000Xj so I know it has an external slave so it probably has a different bell and that year doesn't have vacuum disco lines or speedo cable where mine does.

 

So I'm curios if I swap the bell housing and utilize the internal slave and swap the tcase if I can use that ax5. Of jeep the bell housing with the external slave and just swap the tcase if that would also work

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Vacuum disco lines are in transfer case....

If you do pick up the ax5 from the 2000 bare...

To convert to internal slave don't forget to swap your bearing....

Here's the difference....

Left is external right is internal

 

But if your convert external you'd save yourself a headache in the long run...most common failures on a manual jeep are the slave cylinders...

The external slave is just swap and go...'the internal one you'd have to pull the whole transmission down to swap it...

 

Your tcase will fit the 2000 ax5

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Vacuum disco lines are in transfer case....

If you do pick up the ax5 from the 2000 bare...

To convert to internal slave don't forget to swap your bearing....

Here's the difference....

Left is external right is internal

 

But if your convert external you'd save yourself a headache in the long run...most common failures on a manual jeep are the slave cylinders...

The external slave is just swap and go...'the internal one you'd have to pull the whole transmission down to swap it...

 

Your tcase will fit the 2000 ax5

 

So if I understand correctly I can just swap the tcase and it will bolt right up and give me an external slave.

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External slave has nothing to do with the tcase...

The tcase would just bolt up to your new transmission...

To convert to external slave there's a series of parts to accumulate in order to do the swap....

 

If your new transmission has the bell housing...it will be external slave and will come with the external bearing...

Hopefully it will still have the clutch fork, clutch fork pin...

 

You will need a clutch kit for that year...(which will include clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throw out bearing , alignment tool)

 

Then you'll need the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder...they sell it as a set to save hassle in the long run...

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