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I really am enjoying this build. The detail, the pictures, the discussion. Great job so far.

 

Since you asked for an opinion on the wheels, I say do anything but black. I've never liked black wheels. If you are not sold on the machined finish (I dig it), a dark gray or graphite would look nice.

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Black wheels are overrated and are overdone. I really dig the look of what you've got going on there.  :thumbsup:

 

Personally I like the machined finish, doesn't seem too flashy to me. Now if they were chrome or polished they would be too loud for the truck. Machined aluminum has just the right amount of "flash" for me. But if you're not sold on it, how about getting the centers powered coated black and leave the lips machined?

 

Edit: By the way, I think this build is awesome. I've always wanted a "mini truck" style Comanche. There's a guy local to me that has one that has 4" blocks on the rear, and matching lowering in the front (not sure how he accomplished this), and it looks so cool.

 

I really am enjoying this build. The detail, the pictures, the discussion. Great job so far.

 

Since you asked for an opinion on the wheels, I say do anything but black. I've never liked black wheels. If you are not sold on the machined finish (I dig it), a dark gray or graphite would look nice.

 

Thanks a lot everyone. Seems like the machined finish was the way to go.

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For what it's worth I to am kind of sick of seeing flat black rims on everything. I don't understand why a person would take nice rims and make them look like old spare tire rims by painting them black. But that's just me, I still run white letters out, even if they are a no name tire. Sometimes painting the rims body color works, I also like a gray for the center on some rims/cars. In any case I usually sand the outer lip on the rim down to aluminum again before clearing.  

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I've been thinking of trying that plasti-dip stuff. Not as a permanent solution, but just to see what they would look like. Then I can peel it off and either leave them machined, or get them powdered. Also I could try what Coheed said that might be pretty cool.

It's a great way to try a color on for size. I dipped my Subaru BRZ's stock wheels gold to give it more of a rally car look, and they came out looking great. It's also good to know I can peel them back to stock if I want.

 

For your truck, how about a dark grey gunmetal sort of color? It's not black, but it's not as flashy, either.

 

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Looks great!  Awesome work on that shifter! :thumbsup:

What  did you get that washer bottle from?- that was a great idea!

I wasn't able to bend my brake lines tight enough to fit the stock one back in when I swapped to the WJ booster / MC

 

I'm glad to see it staying  2wd :thumbsup:

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Sorry for the long delay, I didn't have a computer for a while.

 

how do you like the odd mirrors! i hate mine

It takes some getting use to because its so close. But it makes a really nice hand rest.

 

What  did you get that washer bottle from?- that was a great idea!

Its just a factory 97-01 XJ washer bottle. There's some write ups on swapping it. The only thing you really need to do is to drill a hole in the inner fender for the fill neck, and lengthen some wires and hoses.

 

Very nice work where are you located in Pa.?

I'm located around Reading / Lebanon.

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Time to cut the axle. When we did this I was nervous things would spring and move. But once it was all said and done everything stayed where it should and after 5,000+ miles on the axle so far, all is well.

Here is the axle cut and and the upper control arm mounts lowered 2.5" and mounted back on.

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Here are the brackets we made to lower the lower control arm mounts. The mounting location is lowered 2.5"

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After some finishing, I blasted the axle to prep it for paint.

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To finish the axle I used POR-15.

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I forgot to add, I also had to cut off the steering stabilizer mount because it could contact the frame. I made a simple block off plate for it.

Also at a later point I removed the axle and cut the axle opening wider towards the passenger side and moved the gusset closer to the upper control arm mount. Because the oil pan favors the passenger side. (I hope that makes sense).

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What  did you get that washer bottle from?- that was a great idea!

Its just a factory 97-01 XJ washer bottle. There's some write ups on swapping it. The only thing you really need to do is to drill a hole in the inner fender for the fill neck, and lengthen some wires and hoses. 

 

Thanks!  You do some nice work :thumbsup:

I appreciate all your pics

I'll be able to get into altering my front axle as soon as I get into my shop, hopefully just a few weeks. :banana:

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  • 1 month later...

For the front tires I bought Continental Extreme Contacts in 245/45/17, and had them mounted and test fitted with the factory axle still underneath.

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I also got a few more parts for the build. I bought XJ shackles, WJ brake rotors and 99+ Timken hub bearings. I also picked up used 04 WJ knuckles and Akebono calipers.

MJ vs. XJ shackles

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Here are the new WJ rotors redrilled to 5x4.5

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The hubs had to be machined to accept the Fords smaller hub diameter, just like the rear axles. I left roughly 1/4" of the hub diameter closest to the flange the original size where the rotors sit.

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The WJ knuckles were cleaned up and the "high steer" arm was cut off on the passengers side because of clearance issues.

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On with the build. I decided to clean up and reuse the factory control arms with poly bushings.

 

Before

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After

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While I had everything removed from the front suspension. I decided to start the long and tedious journey to remove the factory undercoating and paint. To later recoat everything.

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I then purchased a Rusty's Offroad double shear track bar bracket and joint, and made a straight adjustable track bar to go along with it. However I had a minor clearance issue, where the bracket contacted the coil spring perch.

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Got the JKS hub spacers and welded them up.

I heard people saying that you don't need them for a 2wd because they're for u-joint alignment/spacing. I tried without the spacers and the wj rotors made contact with the knuckles.

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The next step was to cut the factory bump stop mounts shorter. I cut 3" off of them and bought new factory bump stops and extended bump stops, so I could cut them to whatever length I needed. Whichever would work.

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Once again more test fitting...

 

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Also started to mock up the 90's s10 air dam.

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Got some stickers. Because stickers equal horsepower right?

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Also finished up coating the frame and fender wells.

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For brakes I used a booster and master cylinder out of a 96 Cherokee. Also I wanted to get rid of the load sensing valve, so I got a Wilwood 260-11179 proportioning valve. Which gives full flow to the front brakes and has a adjustable rear output for adjusting bias. It also has a built in low pressure switch. For brake lines I used NiCopp lines and eliminated the extra line to the rear. The rear for now has factory drums until I put the 99-04 Mustang 8.8 in the truck. The front is WJ brakes with Powerstop carbon/ceramic pads. (which I didn't know were even a thing, they leave a lot of dust, but they brake hard).

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On the front axle the coil spring perches could potentially contact the frame (with the crazy articulation that this thing can do :laughin:)! ​So they were trimmed to clear. Also the perch was clearanced to avoid contact with the track bar mount. The sway bar used is the 1" bar. I currently have a 1 1/8" waiting to go in. Oh, and I forgot to add, I used WJ lower adjustable ball joints and XJ uppers, to get a little bit of camber.

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Here is everything going into place. I used a drop bracket on the passenger side track bar mount because the track bar was angled up towards the passenger side when sitting at ride height.

This is all "version 1" of my track bar set up, I am currently working on my 3rd version right now.

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Again, more clearancing. The track bar mount could use a slight trim.

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Here is a shot of a factory upcountry coil from my 01 XJ that will be cut and used.

I have a set of upcountry and v8 ZJ springs so I measured them and they are the same.

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Finally sitting on all four!

I made a deadline for myself which was to drive it to my wedding. So here it is a few days before my wedding, and it's sitting on all four. But now I realized that the tie rod hits the track bar mount when I turn the wheel. :fs2: So the next step is track bar version 2...

jhvpsYhl.jpg ​

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I love this build so much. It seems like what you're doing is kind of what I want one of my trucks to be eventually, but you're taking it way further than I ever would. :D Keep it up dude. How close are we to being caught up with the Regular Car Reviews video?

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I love this build so much. It seems like what you're doing is kind of what I want one of my trucks to be eventually, but you're taking it way further than I ever would. :D Keep it up dude. How close are we to being caught up with the Regular Car Reviews video?

Thanks, I am almost caught up with the Regular Car Reviews video. Soon.

 

 

 

You should do some videos! Would be cool to see you do some of this stuff on video. Keep up the great work!

I don't know if I will do any videos. Maybe in the future, but not currently.

 

I will be at the PA Jeeps: All Breeds Jeep Show tomorrow the 16th and Sunday the 17th if anyone will be there.​

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