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Replacing the clutch


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Dex/Merc 3 should be plenty fine.

If you want to be silly you can go synthetic.

If you want to be ridiculous (Me!) you can go with Redline D4 
I am silly like that though, as my trans has Redline MT-90 75W-90, T-case has D4, Axles have Redline standard75w-90 gear oil (not recommended for transmissions btw), and I am running Penzoil Platinum ultimate in the engine.... Heck, even my greasable parts have synthetic waterproof high temp grease on the chassis/ Is it obvious I love my synthetics?  :D

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I will probably be silly when I get the axles and transmission under this thing that I plan to keep under it lol. But for the transmission can any gear oil be used as long as its the right weight? I was just going to grab one of the 5 quart jugs they sell of it at Autozone or something... or is that a bad idea? I mean I want the transmission to last a little bit, but I don't want to break the bank. That pennzoil stuff is like 10$ a quart from what I've seen.

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I will probably be silly when I get the axles and transmission under this thing that I plan to keep under it lol. But for the transmission can any gear oil be used as long as its the right weight? I was just going to grab one of the 5 quart jugs they sell of it at Autozone or something... or is that a bad idea? I mean I want the transmission to last a little bit, but I don't want to break the bank. That pennzoil stuff is like 10$ a quart from what I've seen.

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Pretty straight forward. I always remove the t case first. Then the e12 torx bolts on the very top. Replace those with real bolt when you put it back together.

 

or even better than bolts, replace them with studs.  :thumbsup:  install them into the engine after the trans is removed and then they help as guides for reinstalling the trans. :D 

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Pretty straight forward. I always remove the t case first. Then the e12 torx bolts on the very top. Replace those with real bolt when you put it back together.

 

 

or even better than bolts, replace them with studs.  :thumbsup:  install them into the engine after the trans is removed and then they help as guides for reinstalling the trans. :D

might be dumb for asking this but where can I get studs and how do I install them? I like the idea of having guides for the tranny... and I pulled the mini console, so i'm about to pull the tranny shifter. From what I've read I just put it in neutral, unbolt the 3 bolts on this bronze looking circle, and then press down and turn counter clockwise?
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well it's been a decade now, but I think I got them at the auto parts store.  make sure they are grade 5 or better.  and don't forget that you'll want them a bit longer than the original bolt (both because they thread further into the hole than the original and that you'll need a bit of thread to stick out for the nut to thread on).  once you have the trans out you can easily thread one of the originals back in to see how deep it goes, and then add that measurement plus the thickness of the bellhousing plus an inch for the nut.

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Great! And now another question on manual tranny oil... I've heard mixed reviews about everything. Some say use sychromesh, others say it destroys the tranny. Some say use 75w-90 GL-5 in the BA10/5 because it doesnt have brass synchros, others say don't. Then people are saying use either 10w30 or 10w40! I thought the engine oil was for the AX-15? Ive seen people saying the opposite! Ive gotta get the best oil for it soon because my clutch will hopefully be going in within a couple weeks. What does everyone recommend?

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according to Chrysler:

 

10w-30 is for the AX-15 (because they stopped making gear oil that doesn't eat yellow metals)

 

75w-90 is for the Peugeot (because it doesn't have any yellow metals inside)

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10w-30 is for the AX-15 (because they stopped making gear oil that doesn't eat yellow metals)

 

 

I was running 10w-30 in my AX-15, and I really did not like it.  Transmission was far noisier, hotter (no carpet, so heat radiated through floor), and the trans shifted very notchy.  Redline is one of a couple companies that makes GL-3 and GL-4 gear oils specifically for manual transmissions.  Is it cheap? No, but MT-90 is safe for transmissions that require GL4 or GL-3.  I will spend my silly amounts of money on MT-90, because it's worth it.

 

To the OP, opinions are like armpits (especially on the internet).  If you can just run 75w-90, then run it.  If you feel that Syncromesh is a better alternative, go ahead and use that.  It sounds to me like either work,  When in doubt, go for factory.

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I'm going factory, this time. Just gotta find a chance to get to the parts store... working full time nightshift now so I get out of the house when all the parts stores are closed lol. When I get an AX-15 Redline will go in it. Engine oil just sounds way to lightweight for a manual transmission... The clutch and flywheel came in the mail yesterday, though. Hoping I can borrow a buddies transmission jack Friday when I come in from work and get the sucker swapped out!

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Meh, the BA10/5 isn't that heavy of a transmission anyway. Just remember our ratchet strap ideas and/or a good floor jack and a board.  I did mine without a transmission jack, and I did it with the T-case bolted to the transmission.  It will be a little frustrating, but it's easily doable.

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Z5bu1NE.jpg well I managed to "get" a transmission jack :D found a bigger floor jack and made a wood plate to keep the tranny sturdier. I promise its more thought out than it looks. Theres another plate of wood on the bottom with a large hole drilled out for the "cup" to fit into so its sturdier. Also about to make notches for a ratchet strap to wrap into so I can also strap the tranny to the jack. Got a sheet of plywood layed down to easily roll on. Now just waiting for the brother in law to get home so we can pull the sucker out!
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Engine oil just sounds way to lightweight for a manual transmission... The clutch and flywheel came in the mail yesterday, though. Hoping I can borrow a buddies transmission jack Friday when I come in from work and get the sucker swapped out!

FYI - most truck transmissions in the 70's and 80's shipped from the factory with SAE 30W inside. This was the standard lube for the T18 and NP435 at the time.

The FSM for the AX-15 equipped vehicles included a misprint specifying a trans fluid, which also included phosphorus/sulphur EP additives which are corrosive to yellow metals. The correct spec fluid is GL3/4 which is the basic 75w90 off the shelf run of the mill gear oil. Nothing fancy about it. Chrysler changed the spec to 10w30 so as to end the confusion over the matter (which they themselves caused, yet never covered as a recall, opting instead to add a slip in addendum page to the owner manuals post 1993 when the issue was finally correctly indentified) more than to actually save the transmissions.

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My makeshift jack worked FLAWLESSLY. Seriously! Got the tranny sitting under the truck still on the jack. Currently working on the flywheel and will be getting a pilot bearing puller in a little while. Probably going to have to install the clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate in a different day. But uh... check out how burnt this thing was. It looks bad, to me, what do you guys think? The springs rattle and have bare metal spots too! Also whats up with all this oil residue inside the bellhousing? Could that be from my rear main seal?WiuY4Yx.jpg

vlTimnz.jpgeygrRhf.jpg

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You do not need a pilot bearing puller.

 

Remove the fly wheel.

 

Use a socket or other slightly smaller in diameter than the pilot bearing and drive it out.

 

 

Also, I would not reuse that flywheel unless you have it resurfaced. Others will say not to......I'm guessing.........and others will say they have with no ill effects.......up to you.

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