My 1987 Comanche Pioneer

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Hi, My Name is John and I'm addicted to Jeeps.

 

I had a 1981 CJ-8 (scrambler), which I purchased used in 1985, and sold in 1989. :nuts: I miss that old CJ!

In 1991 I bought myself a brand new Wrangler, which is still my daily driver, and snow plows in the winter! (has over 257,000 miles on it!) :eek:

Then in 2002 my wife and I bought a 2001 Cherokee, limited, (power everything) :brows:

Arround 2004 I bought a beat up ole 1993 wrangler, (5spd, 2.5L hard top & doors), for $900 drove it for a year, then it developed problems. :mad:

 

I just traded that 1993 wrangler for a 1987 Comanche pioneer longbed. :D

 

The wrangler had a bad 3-4syncro, no exhaust, and the brakelines were shot!

The Comanche has the usual rust problem(s) in the floor(s) and Rocker Panels, has a sticky throttle cable, needs new brake lines for the rear brakes, and needs new parking brake cable(s). Of course thats the obvious stuff.

 

I'll get some pictures here for you all next week.

 

I've ordered some POR off of Ebay, I've already taken the seats, carpet and most of the interior panels out of the MJ so I can get the floor/rockers fixed.

The Bed has a few dings and dents, but no rust, (least nothing major).

 

My plans for this truck are to just fix it up and keep it running. No major modifications for fourwheeling, ( I got thoses YaYas out in the CJ8 and my Wrangler). This Truck will be used as a work truck, a daily driver, and may even see a snowplow mounted to it.

 

I'll need to aquire some comanche specific parts, but I've got a pretty good U-PULL-IT junkyard near me. I've been there several times looking for Parts for my Wranglers, and have always seen lots of Cherokees from various years. and even saw a comanche there once, and old J series Pickups on more then one occasion.

 

Some things I need are the smaller center console, and one of the side interior lights.

But I'm not so concerned with those right now, as they are more cosmetic.

But I might be bugging some of you guys who have spares to Hook me up!

So anyhow, just wanted to introduce myself and my jeeps. :USAflag:

[Wildman]

Hi, My Name is John and I'm addicted to Jeeps.

 

I really don't think we have a 12 step program for your addiction ;)

 

But Welcome to the Comanche Club :wavey:

 

It sounds like you tryed all of the rest of the Jeep Models......and now you have the Best

[Oizarod115]

you'll be needing pics up in the pub: introduce your comanche thread.

or you will be beated... mercilessly. :brows:

 

welcome to the club man! :cheers: i bet that 01 XJ is niice.

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

The 2001 XJ is VERY NICE, I wish it were mine, but my wife needs a good vehicle, and I couldn't think of anything better for her and my two Boys to be in, (well nothing she could drive and we could afford) :brows:

 

As for trying all the Jeeps, I never tried one of those old Kaiser J series, (I love the way they look). Nor did I ever have one of the old Grand Wagoneers, (like those too)

I will say though that my CJ8(scrambler) was one hell of an of an off road vehicle. I Drove that ole CJ through more swamp/rock/mud/woods/streams/sand then any stock CJ should have been asked to.

The Floor boards in that ole Scrambler were pretty rusted out by the time I was done with it, AND if Rusted floor boards are any indication of a Good Fourwheeler, well then this old MJ is sure to be one hell of a beast!

 

I promis some pictures soon, so please to beat me !

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Ok so maybe they aren't the best quality pictures, but you'll get the iea.

 

 

Here it sits in the driveway

 

 

The PO painted over most of the chrome trim.

 

:cry:

 

 

Gauges are alreay wired for Oil presure, alt, etc, just need to get the gauge cluster with a Tach.

 

 

 

 

The passengers floor and Drivers floor have ROT!

I plan on cleaning it up, hitting it with the POR15, then welding in some patches. I found some decent metal to work with from a HVAC shop's scrap metal pile, and am fabricating some pieces from that.

The Rocker panel on the passenegr side is REALY shot I'll have to order a piece to patch that up.

Well, I'm planing a trip to a nearby U-PULL-IT yard this weekend. I've got a whole little wish list made up.

I'll get some more pictures up once I make some real progress.

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Opps here's the picture of the dashboard,

 

 

I forgot to mention I'm the king of TYPOS's hehhe

 

Hers another picture

 

This MJ is the Pioneer version, has a 4sp automatic floorshift, 4wheel drive. longbed.

I just purchased a 1987 Jeep trucks sales brochure on Ebay, I just wanted it so I could find out more about this specific model/year. It's realy pretty cool. and who would have thought that this maroon interior is realy called Cordovan!?

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Oh I picked up the parking brake cables, (all 3), at NAPA the otherday, total cost after tax was $45.40 Not Bad. I wanted to order brake shoes for the rear drums, the guy there asked me if they were 1.75" or 2.5" wide.

I didn't know so I would have to check, I checked and mine are the 1.75" wide shoes. now I've just got the D35 Rear, so I'm asuming that the D44 is the 2.5" shoes? this might be anotherway that people could ID the rear axle, by checking the brake shoes.

 

Anyhow something to know before you go to order brake shoes,,,,

[JeepcoMJ]

them floors are perty. haha, actually they're not all that bad...the frame is still there :P

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

ha! The one part on the bottom is still there. its a got a nice coat of rust and some shoddeness!

 

:cry:

 

I figure I'm gonna have to squirt some POR up in there somehow, and also weld some reinforcemnts to a couple spots on the frame.

 

Anyone want to recomend a welder? Some one at work mentioned a MIG welder. I don't remember much about welding sfrom High School shop class. :roll: But I'll figure it out quick enough on some scrap before I actualy weld anything ;)

I'm gonna go out to it now, with a cold beer and work on the floor pieces.

 

:cheers:

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Went to Harrys Upull it Junk yard the otherday, got some goodies.

I found a 88 XJ wagoneer that had the same color interior. It was missing the headliner :mad: which I realy need, but I got some other goodeis.

I installed the full gauge package, tach seems to work nicely. The gas gauge reads full which is wrong, but My old gauge didn't work right either, so it must be something at the tank or in the wires.

 

I picked up lock cylinders for the doors and the glove box, installed them pretty easily, now I can lock it up. :brows:

 

I replace the sticky throttle cable.

I also picked up a center console and some other odds and ends for the interior, which won't get installed for quite awhile.

 

Finding out more things I need every day, so a Harrys return trip is due,,,,

:brows:

 

Say I need to weld some pieces into my floor, can anyone recomend a good welder?

People are telling me get a Mig welder but, I'm not sure,,,

[Wildman]

Well, you got a pretty good jump on your MJ project for only having it a couple of weeks ;)

 

Your rotted floors are not that bad, you should see an Mj from up here in NY, if you want to see no floor at all :roll:

 

Your asking about a welder, if you ask over in tech, or pub, you'll get some replys.

 

But, Yea, you do want to get a Mig Welder, and you'll be better off with a 220volt welder, you can do light gauge (sheet metal) and heaver gauge, like 1/4" steel with a 220.

 

One unit I like for the price is the Hobart handler 187, they run around $650, plus you need to get shielding gas with it, and a 40 cuft tank is now around $140. What you pay for gas, around $16 for a fill-up, you can use solid core wire, witch is about 1/2 the price of flux core, and you get a better looking weld, cleaner looking. Shealding gas should only be used indoors, and flux core is used outside (wind blows the gas away)

 

You can get a 110 volt mig welder for $300-450, you can weld upto 1/4" but that's pushing it. It's best for sheet metal. I have a 110 volt welder, cause most of my use is on the jobs, and most of my welding is on 16 gauge steel. But for big shop projects, I borrow a friends Hobart 187.

 

Here's a site that you can find out more on mig welders, body work, and auto body painting.......it's a great site-

http://www.autobodystore.com/

 

You can get lost in there for a week, and still not get thru the entire site ;)

 

Mig welder are expensive, but not like years ago when you could not touch one for under 1600. Just don't buy a cheap welder, not from Hobo Fright, or any off brand, and Centry are not good, I know. Names like Horbart (owned by Lincoln) and Lincoln, clarke and couple otheres are the best buy. It's an investment, and a useful one at that. Look at your local paper for used, and sometime you can get one with little use for a good price, don't buy a used one from a shop, it will be run to the ground.

 

Good luck with your project.......I'll keep watching :brows:

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Ok,

Well so far I've pull out the seats, carpets and most of the interior panels, POR15 the inside of the cab. Now started working on the rust from underneath.

While doing so I dropped the gas tank so I could get on the frame, This tank doesn't look so bad. I was thinking of painting it while I've got it out.

 

My real question is this, I've noticed some rust through in the Frame. I was thinking of welding some 'braces' to 'sure-up' some spots. However seems that inside the frame there is dirt, (from the PO(s), four wheeling it, no doubt), and quite a bit of rust internaly on the frame in spots. I'm wondering what can be done to the inside of the frames where you can't realy see, to stop the rust in there. I was thinking of cleaning it as best I can, then a rust inhibitor and spray in some Rustoleum or POR15 type stuff.

Anyone have any suggestions?

[Rob S]

Best to clean out the frame good as you can, pressure washer if you can get it in the area. Then spray in some por15 after it is good and dry. Check the area's you think could be trouble with a hammer from the outside, if they give, it will need reinforced.

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Thanks for the advice Rob.

I figured I'd have to get in there somehow with a powerwasher, just not sure how much I like the idea of spraying water in there.

 

I had a rust out hole in the passenger side frame just near the back of the cab. I shoved the tube end of my shop vac in there as far as it would go, and sucked out alot of stuff.

Sheesh the ammount of crap that was in there, even sucked out an old mummified mouse!

It just makes me nervous that the frame is rusting from the inside out....

 

I think I might take an old coat hanger, and make a tool of it, so as to get inside the frame and just scratch arround and loosen up all the solidified dirt/rust/crap. Then I'm gonna get an air compressor and blow out what I can, and vacuum out also.

 

I just don't think a power washer is going to get into all those hard to reach spots.

 

I like the tap on it with a Hammer Idea Rob, seems to make sense,,, There are 6 spots where the frame has rusted through. Two of these spots are big enough that I can shove the plastic tube from my shop vac in them, the other 4 spots are smaller. Funny thing though the two biggest spots have solid/strong frame arround them.

 

Two spots where the holes aren't so big, are near the rear shock absorber mounts, (both sides on top mount), and arround them on the inner side of the frame the metal seems realy weak. I think I'll cut away some of that metal, ( I'm gonna reinforce it anyway, right?), just to get a better look inside and get more access to inside the frame to clean it out and rust proof it.

 

This old MJ is getting a new lease on life, and I think it knows it.

It was hard to start when I looked at it originaly. It was hard to start when the guy came and delivered it. But now after some attention, it starts right up, and idles nicely at about 6-7hundred RPM.

 

I went to remove the bracket that holds where the three parking brake cables all hook together. The screws where so rusted, I hit them with the liquid wrench a few times, took me alomost a whole hour, but I slowly worked them out without snapping the bolts. loosen a little, tighten a little, spray a little liquid wrench, and repeat the process, finaly got them out..

 

I realy want to get this beast on the road by this Fall, so I'm going gang busters when I get the free moments to work on it,,,,

However I don't want to get lazy on important things, somethings I can comeback next year and make better, somethings must be done correctly the first time arround,,,,,,

 

I think the frame falls into the do it right the first time arround,,,,,,,,

[Pfrenet]

When I did the frame of my 64 Pontiac I used a wire brush and attached it to a broom handle and for going inside the rounded parts of the frame I took a small wire brush and screwed it to a piece of strong rubber hose. worked very well,was able reach to remove the loose rust inside, then I sprayed inside with Marine Clean and again brushed inside with the wire brush, power sprayed it clean, after that I sprayed metal mask let dry, then sprayed Por-15, worked great, I still have the Frame and there no indication of rust inside. Did it 7 years ago. I havn't tried it on my Comanche yet, but thats basically what I will be doing.

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Indeed, sounds like what I'll be doing, the old Broom handle won't make it's way in there, but I'm sure I'll figure something out. Sounds like the strong rubber hose might do the trick!

I've got a wirebrush that has bristles 360 degrees, and is flexible. perhaps that on the rubber hose,,,,,,,,

 

 

The fact that you did your Pontiac 7 years ago, and is still looking good,, gives me hope. :D

 

;)

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Ok, so I been thinking about it, (and checking out the forums), I'm gonna have to take the bed off. Well I don't have to, but to do it right I should.

 

1. I need to replace all the parking brake cables.

2. I need to redo the brake lines to the rear.

3. I've got some frame rot that will need to be repaired and re-inforced.

4. The sparetire holder/elevator is rusted solid and needs repair/replacement.

5. I realy want to halt the cancerous rusting process that is occuring to the frame.

6. I want to stop the rusting that is on the insides of the bed.

 

Seems to me that Taking the bed off will be the easiest way to proceed.

It will allow me better access to the frame for any welding I need to do. and allow me to clean it all up and rust proof it properly.

 

I've checked out the posts here as to what I need to do and I think I can handle it without any problems. My only concern is rusted bolts/nuts.

I've already dropped the gas tank and removed the bracket for the parking brake cables.

 

I've read that someone said the bed is light and just two people were able to lift it off.

What I realy haven't read about is putting the bed back on. Obviously it's the reverse of taking it off. Anyone who has done this have any pointers for when I go to put it back on?

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Seem this old 115v Arc welder that I got from my father-in-law does work after all. The welding rods he had were no good, a new box of rods and the thing works ok.

 

I started welding in some sheet metal in the cab floor.

I used 1/8th 45-80amp rods, set the welder at 50amps, took a bit to get the weld/bead going but it works!

 

I'll get some pictures up as soon as I've got one piece welded in decent.

 

I'm going to take off the trucks bed. so as to have better access to the frame for welding/repair/rustproofing.

Anyone have any pointers on bed removal and re-installation?

[feerocknok]

This should help:

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ed+removal

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

NO way! :eek:

I'm not chopping off the bed in my Pioneer! :nuts:

 

I NEED the long bed.

 

This baby is gonna be more for light duty work and a daily driver.

 

I gotta keep it street legal! :driving:

[feerocknok]

NO way! :eek:

I'm not chopping off the bed in my Pioneer! :nuts:

Lol! Not that part. Just the locations of the bolts and make sure you take off the gas tank, e-brake, and tail-light ground/taillight wiring.

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

HEHEHEHEH :D

 

 

just being a wise guy,,,, :D

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

went to the junkyard the otherday.

Found an 86 Comanche, 2wheeldrive, colum shift.

Hell the thing was in better condition then my MJ.

 

The bench seat was in it and was MINT, I mean PERFECT! so I grabbed it.

hope I can make it work with the floor shift.

 

I grabbed the headliner too, it was saggy but not ripped to hell like mine.

 

I picked up two of those little interior lights that go behind the seat on the pillar.

 

Got a bunch of little odds and ends that I needed too.

 

I woulda had a few other things if I had the right tools.

namely front tow hook mounts.

 

Gotta get back there soon, and try to get the rear leaf springs outa that MJ

 

 

I did manage to get some work done on my MJ, over the past couple of days.

 

The main patch in the passengers floor is pretty well all welded in.

 

I also Fixed one of the gas tank straps, (welded a piece to reinforce it).

 

Painted the Gas tank with Rustoleum.

POR15 the gas tank straps, and the parking brake mount.

Cut and bent a few new pieces of sheet metal for the driverside floor repair (Cut away some cancer/rust from that area too).

Gonna have to get inside the rocker with some POR15 before I weld

 

I hit the some of the bed mount bolts with some PB breaker cause I'm gonna take the bed of soon

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

Today was a good day.

I pretty much finished up with the interior of the cab. The main patches in the floor have been welded in. I used some bondo fiberglass on a couple of the smaller spots. Cut some nice thick rubber for flooring under the seat, (has little bumps so as to let the floor breath).

 

I fixed my headliner. the fabic was torn and sagging. I took the whole thing out, tore off the fabric. Then I used some faux leather fabric I purchased at Walmart. Spray mounted the hell outa the backside of the fabiric and the backing of the healiner. Adheared the fabric to it, and used a bunch of binder clips to hold the edges good while the glue set up, it's not quite as good as new, but the cool fabric sorta makes up for it.

 

Got my bench seat in, and with some slight modification to the mini console that goes arround the shifter it will slide forward enough for my wife to be able to drive it if she needs to, (she's barely 5' tall). One of the seatbelts that was with the benchseat was busted, so I had to squeeze in one from the original bucket seat, it works, but I don't like it and will replace it at some pooint. One of the spots on the seat bracket, where the seat bolted to the floor was rusted away, but with my new found welding skills it wasn't that hard to fix. :brows:

 

I dropped in the parkingbrake cable that runs from the pedal out the back of the cab. I didn't attach it to anything yet, as I removed the bracket under the bed, and plan on removing the bed soon, so as to properly repair the frame.

 

I can't find my digital camera, or I'd have pictures to post.

I did take some pictures with a regular camera over the past weeks So I'll post those sometime this week.

[JeeperjohnfromPA]

update as of 7/25/07

 

Ok the PO,(previous owner) had painted the whole truck, and didn't bother to cover most of the chrome trim. :mad:

So, I tried something. I got a can of spray on paint stripper.

I removed the front grill, headlight bezels, and chrome trim from the headliner.

I sprayed them all with the paint stripper. Well it worked fine on the chrone trim pieces that were actualy metal. But It realy FUBARD the plastic parts. :ack: now I'm gonna have to get a new grill and headlight bezels from the JY.

I thought the worst that would happen was it wouldn't strip the paint completely, and then I would just give it a new coat of black paint.

However the stripper chemical made the plastic get a bubbled/rough surface, which I don't like.

Ahh well live and learn :roll:

On another note I also picked up a drivers side door and installed it, transfered over the lock cylinder and other items.

 

I'm going to start doing some of the mechanical stuff shortly. This old MJ needs a new Valve Gasket,oil pan gasket, and I think the pan on the transmission is also leeking.

somewhere in there I'm going to pull the bed off, so I can properly patch up the frame, paint it and rust proof it.