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I went looking around for pictures on how to take apart a fuse block (box?) and came up with a bunch of information on how to do it... but we all love pictures so I wasn't satisfied with what I was coming up with.

 

Fuse block front:

 

Fuse block bare chassis:

 

Back of fuse block:

 

Back of bulkhead connection showing the elusive 8mm head (however apparently sometimes 7mm, 6mm, or 1/4") bolt:

 

Here's the extraction tool I made using a piece of stainless TIG filler. It's roughly 1/4" from tip to tip and I tapered the ends so it would fit nicely around the female fuse terminals:

 

Shown in fuse block:

 

The extraction tool fits snugly vertically above and below where the fuse would seat into. Keep pushing it in until the wire starts to slide out the back. When the terminal comes lose, it simply pulls out the remainder of the way.

 

Terminal:

 

The two angles "wings" on the terminal is what is being pushed together by the extraction tool. Before putting the terminal back in, it;s a good time to tighten up the fuse seat. Gently bend the "wings" out so the terminal stays tight when inserted back into the block.

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Thanks for the write-up and pics. I'm assuming the Renix era XJ and MJ fuse blocks are the same. Correct me if I'm wrong. I tried to extract a fuse block from a late 80's Cherokee but with no luck. I didn't see that bolt in the middle. Maybe next time I'm at the salvage yard I 'll grab it. Thanks again.

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Ben, I've never had to do this but it's good to know. Will the below work as replacement terminals? The factory p/n for these is J3231223.

 

http://www.delcity.net/store/1!way-Fuse-Block-Terminal/p_11128

7388520_primary.jpg

 

Looks like it. If I had to replace a fuse block and clean up wires, I'd probably go that route and get new terminals instead of cutting, splicing, and soldering everything.

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Completed the fuse box swap... Thanks Ben.

 

Technically the box itself is fine, it's just plastic. The connectors, I totally different story. I ended up cutting and soldering on different connectors for a few of them. (Connectors that came with the fuse box I got from Ben) Exactly what I didn't want to do. Anybody doing this swap, be sure to get a fistful of new connectors. Should note that soldering is not required with new parts. I had used parts so I soldered the wires together instead of tearing the connectors off and trying to recycle them. You need a few 4 ways, a few 3 ways, a few 2 ways and of course single connectors. It's fairly easy, just stay organized and do one at a time, marking the hole in on the new one immediately after removing the wire from the old box. Make sure the orientation is correct also with the 2, 3, and 4 way connectors.. I used a small screwdriver out of a eyeglass repair kit. WARNING: The screwdriver works fantastic for nice connectors. It will destroy not so nice ones. Hence why I needed to replace more then I thought..

 

Here is a link again for the correct connectors. For the 3 way and 2 way, you could get a 4-way and just cut it down.

 

http://www.delcity.net/store/Fuse-Block-Terminals/p_177

 

I took some pictures but photobucket isn't cooperating right now...

 

Also I learned there is really no need to replace the whole box if you have a issue with just one connector. Buy a new one and install.. But it is pretty nice to be able to transfer your newly rebuilt wires into a new clean box. I was able it sit on a spare tire/wheel on the floor beside the jeep and work in the floorboard. No need to do a hand stand under the dash. You may need to cut the loom a little bit.

 

Took me a few hours with only one beer break. My soldering tool is also a POS which added more time..

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  • 1 year later...

I recently redid all the terminals in my fuse block using these terminals. I ordered a whole bunch plus a handful of the bussed ones too. I left it in the truck and just spend about two hours in an awkward position. Bent and ground a paperclip to remove the terminals. if you have a good quality set of terminal pliers (preferably the ratcheting type, not the standard part store stripper/crimper) then no solder is needed. I ended up doing everyone over since most needed it and I didn't want to have to do it again. At the same time I picked up a bunch of other stuff from Delcity to upgrade my battery cables. Bought some 1ga at the parts store and the rest from them. They have these neat little solder pellets (https://www.delcity.net/store/Terminal-Solder-Slugs/p_1036) that you just drop in the terminals, heat up to the correct point, and push the cables in. When done well I was super happy with the seal (after ruining the first one learning the correct amount of heat and time.) I also grabbed two of these guys (https://www.delcity.net/store/Anti!Rotational-In!Line-Battery-Terminals/p_1016) and put them in-line from the battery. The negative I cleaned at spot, drilled a hole, and put a 3/8 bolt with a washer right to the fender well to improve my grounding and allow it to continue on to the block (which I then cleaned and did all the stuff cruiser recommended.) I bought an isolated single post for the positive (https://www.delcity.net/store/Junction-Blocks/p_801581) so I could get rid of the double wire terminal off the battery. I mounted it to the fender well also and made a short cable from it to the distribution solenoid thingy (still not 100% what that thing is and I'm a mechanic, so you'd think I would know by now...) out of the same cable and ends to ensure no loss of power to the rest of the truck. Overall the del city stuff cost me about 80 shipped (including way more terminals than I needed plus a few extra end terminals and solder plugs to be safe) and the big battery cable cost me about 40 for seven or so feet of each pos and neg. I still have a foot or two of each for any future stuff it may be needed for. It took probably two hours to make the cables (if you use the solder plugs you need some sort of torch, I used oxy/ac but map gas or propane would work as well according to the site) including putting some nice shrink-wrap on them and the R&R. I still want to upgrade the grounds in other spots but I am super happy with how this all went. It started from lightly flickering interior lights that stemmed from weak and broken fuse contacts (about half of them ended up breaking when I removed them from the block and just wiggled them, bad news) and the sight of breaks and cracks in my positive battery cable. I recorded it turning over on my phone with the coil disconnected before and after and it turns about 15-20% faster now and no more flickering anything. Thanks for whoever figured out these terminals were the right ones as I was unsure about what to do with this whole mess before I found this post.

 

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  • 3 years later...

I really really don't want to revive an old thread but I couldn't help but notice that no specific tool is listed for the DIY. I just replaced one of the multi terminals last night in my block and ran into an issue with crimping on the wire. Does any one know of a specific tool for these multi terminals? The FSM has nothing listed on the subject.

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A standard open barrel crimper will do an OK job on the Pack-Con terminals. I don't know how to do the bus bars - my guess is you'd have to either find the OEM crimper for those or bend them out of the way for clearance on the ones you aren't crimping.

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  • 10 months later...
On 4/16/2020 at 4:06 PM, eaglescout526 said:

I really really don't want to revive an old thread but I couldn't help but notice that no specific tool is listed for the DIY. I just replaced one of the multi terminals last night in my block and ran into an issue with crimping on the wire. Does any one know of a specific tool for these multi terminals? The FSM has nothing listed on the subject.

 

Those terminals have the same crimping ends as the pins I used in my Deutsche DT connector. I used the crimper linked below, which has multiple gauge sizes, and two different size "seal" crimp holes to crimp the larger wings that hole the terminal to the insulation.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081381N72

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6 hours ago, Rad_Comanche said:

 

Those terminals have the same crimping ends as the pins I used in my Deutsche DT connector. I used the crimper linked below, which has multiple gauge sizes, and two different size "seal" crimp holes to crimp the larger wings that hole the terminal to the insulation.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081381N72

 

Right but I ran into this issue except instead of two, it was four across.

image.png.b6d71652b92336ab14e658cf8f9ff959.png

 

So I am not sure if that crimper is up to the task.

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11 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

 

Right but I ran into this issue except instead of two, it was four across.

image.png.b6d71652b92336ab14e658cf8f9ff959.png

 

So I am not sure if that crimper is up to the task.

 

Ohhhh, that is a good point. The jaws might have trouble with those.

 

You know what? I already have the crimper, and I need to put new terminals in my fuse box anyway. I will buy some terminals and find out if they play nice together.

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34 minutes ago, Rad_Comanche said:

 

Ohhhh, that is a good point. The jaws might have trouble with those.

 

You know what? I already have the crimper, and I need to put new terminals in my fuse box anyway. I will buy some terminals and find out if they play nice together.


That would be awesome as it seems standard and the barrel crimpers I got will only probably reach to about the second one in a row of four. That being said the power wire could go to one of the end terminals now that I think about it. 

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  • 1 month later...

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