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hey guys I'm new to jeeps all together,, my dad gave me an 88 comanche and hes been lots of fun till now.. i was on my way to work when my clutch pedal sank,, turns out the clutch master cylinder went bad,, i changed it and refilled the lines only to have it gushing from the bottom.. it was running at this point!! had to change the slave cylinder,, after we put the tranny back together and connected everything in getting no juice!! the only thing electrical working now is the seatbelt lamp and buzzer.. i had the starter tested,, its good.. i took the fuse box apart and cleaned all the break fluid out of it and put it back together with new fuses.. is it possible it could be the starter relay?? when i hit the key it cranks,, I'm just not getting any fuel.. no head lights,, wipers,, tail lights,, radio,, signals,, hazzards.. everything electrical is out!! help a girl get this fixed.. :) 

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yeah i re-connected it,, but it doesnt bolt to the bell housing,, it just cliped in.. i just used a fuse light and i have a green light to all the parts that arent working.. the fuel pump is getting power and so are all the lights.. even double checked the fuse box.. did realize that when i mounted the tranny i have a flat ground mashed between the motor and tranny,, but i don't see where that would be a problem..

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The CPS should definitely bolt on solidly with special shoulder bolts. 

 

If you have power to all the fuses, it sounds like a ground problem to me.  If power is available at the fuse, the circuit should work if it has a ground.  Look under the dash in the vicinity of the emergency brake and you should see a ground wire bolted to the chassis.  That is the ground for all the instrument panel.  The flat braided ground wire should be bolted to the firewall about in the center of the engine bay.  I replaced mine with a heavy gauge starter cable from O'reillys.  Bad grounds are the most common problem in Comanches, along with the C101 connector. 

 

It might pay to separate the C101 and clean out all the tar,  it's the big connector on the firewall just above and inboard of the clutch master cylinder.

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I'm sorry it does bolt in,, there was so much gunk on them I couldn't see them.. I ordered a new cps and I'm going to put it on today.. as far as the ground,, I probably need to check the one under the dash because I may have damaged it when I was changing the master cylinder.. Tight spaces and big hands don't go together.. Lol

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The CPS should definitely bolt on solidly with special shoulder bolts.

 

If you have power to all the fuses, it sounds like a ground problem to me. If power is available at the fuse, the circuit should work if it has a ground. Look under the dash in the vicinity of the emergency brake and you should see a ground wire bolted to the chassis. That is the ground for all the instrument panel. The flat braided ground wire should be bolted to the firewall about in the center of the engine bay. I replaced mine with a heavy gauge starter cable from O'reillys. Bad grounds are the most common problem in Comanches, along with the C101 connector.

 

It might pay to separate the C101 and clean out all the tar, it's the big connector on the firewall just above and inboard of the clutch master cylinder.

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The flat braided ground strap that you think is jammed between the tranny bell housing and block should be attached to the firewall directly above the rear end of the engine.  That is the main ground for the entire truck.  You can leave the flat cable where it is for now

 

go to your local auto parts store and buy the heaviest battery cable they have roughly two feet long.  if you find one that is for use on a boat, it will have  flat ring connectors on each end.  clean away all paint and grease from the firewall and bolt and attach the cable.

 

The other end needs to be grounded to the engine block. the factory install was on a stud down by the bottom of the oil dipstick, but there are other places you can attach it.  While you are at it, many of the sensor grounds are attached to the stud at the bottom of the dipstick, they get loose and dirty, so clean them up and re-attach firmly.

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An additional ground from battery to radiator bracket is a good idea, but you should still put in a heavy cable from the engine block to the firewall.  Will improve your starting times and the brightness of your headlights.  Don't forget to clean the attach points really well.......

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I used #2 welding cable and soldered terminals to upgrade the block, head, and body ground on my MJ. BIG difference. There is a ground junction for all your front end lights in the harness that runs behind the header panel. I opened it up, took out the crimp, ran an additional 10ga wire from the battery negative to the splice point, soldered it all together, and covered it with heat shrink. Took care of a lot of issues that were popping up with my front end lighting.

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  • 6 months later...

Three letters I will never forget....CPS.  Yesterday I was neatening up some wiring for the start button.  Started fine afterwards.  Today went to start the truck and nothing.  Only thing that worked was the key buzzer.  After a couple of hours of trouble shooting and scratching my head, the wife came out and looked under the hood and said unplug that for 5 minutes and it will reset the CPS.  The plug is located on the fire wall just above the fuel rail, well mine is.  The wires in the plug are vio/wh and wh/blk to a red and white.  I reset it and it fired right up.  Have since put two on order.

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I cleaned the c101 when I cleaned the fuse box.. I just put the New cps on and I've still got the same problem,, no power!! I don't see a ground near the e.b. at all can I just run a new one?? If so just tell me how I like to learn..

SLOW DOWN!

 

If it cranks, you OBVIOUSLY have power to the starter, so you don't have "no power." And if it cranks, you don't need a starter relay.

 

Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail? have you checked? What pressure?

 

Do you have spark?

 

Do you have headlights and tail lights?

 

DON'T just start throwing parts at it -- you'll go broke. Diagnose the problem one step at a time.

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