Knucklehead97 Posted November 23, 2013 Author Share Posted November 23, 2013 Just checked. Its connected and the hose is fine. I'm gonna leave it until tomorrow and try again. Maybe the gas will dissapear and itll fire. I just want to drive my truck, seriously lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share Posted November 24, 2013 Still won't start... Give me everything that could make it not start after new fuel injectors, please. During installation I got lost on the 3rd and 4th fuel injector plugs, but connected them and was pretty sure I had them right, could having them wrong make it not start? It sounds like a couple pistons are firing, but not enough to turn it over. Do I need to arc the spark plugs off of something and make sure I have spark? I know my fuel punp is good, it never failed before. Just give me a list, guys. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Fuel pressure - should be able to hear the pump come on with the key in run position. If you get a little squirt from the schrader valve, you've got fuel pressure. A fuel pressure gage would be best, but do the simple test first. The IAC vacumm line from the trottle body to the firewall is pretty easy to crack, the motor will not run (hardly) with a leak there, but in my experience you can normally get it to start briefly if it's inop or cracked in half. Spark, would check that next. A no spark would most likely be a bad connection or connector for the CPS which kinda runs donw the back of the cyl head. Recheck all the other connections around the trottle body. Make sure the ballest resister on the fender is making good connections. If you have fuel, and spark, it should at least fire and run. If your convinced you've switched # 3 and #4, swap them and see if it makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Fuel pressure - should be able to hear the pump come on with the key in run position. If you get a little squirt from the schrader valve, you've got fuel pressure. A fuel pressure gage would be best, but do the simple test first. The IAC vacumm line from the trottle body to the firewall is pretty easy to crack, the motor will not run (hardly) with a leak there, but in my experience you can normally get it to start briefly if it's inop or cracked in half. Spark, would check that next. A no spark would most likely be a bad connection or connector for the CPS which kinda runs donw the back of the cyl head. Recheck all the other connections around the trottle body. Make sure the ballest resister on the fender is making good connections. If you have fuel, and spark, it should at least fire and run. If your convinced you've switched # 3 and #4, swap them and see if it makes a difference. Not necessarily ENOUGH fuel pressure. The line from the throttle body to the firewall is for the MAP sensor and should be checked. The IAC is NOT a sensor, but an actuator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share Posted November 24, 2013 I'm almost positive the CPS is fine because it cranked right up a week ago when I found the leak. Ill test the spark though. Ive heard that if a engine floods then the spark plugs may not fire right even after they're dry. Is this true? Do I test the pressure with just a normal tire gauge? It looks like one would work, is why I ask. Tomorrow will be a nice day of tests, it seems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 You didn't by chance also have the spark plugs out too, while you were working on it? If you did, double-check the firing order of your plug wires... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted November 24, 2013 Author Share Posted November 24, 2013 I kept all of my plugs in until it wouldn't start. Then I removed one to see if it had gas on it but I immediately put it back on so there was no confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bornindesert Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I guess in a pinch a tire gage would work, but maybe not so good for the tire gage...creative thinking though. Thanks for the correction Crusier, given how many times I've had to mess with the MAP sensor, you'd think I'd know it's proper name lol. FYI, a pretty basic fuel pressure gage is available at Autozone. Check the spark. Not saying you have a bad CPS, just may have created a bad connection during the fuel rail removal, and only if you don't have any spark at all. Go over everything you did during the work. It's probably something fairly simple, something that didn'tgo back together like it should have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 The fuel rail was a b**** to get back on... is that normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ComancheKid45 Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 It usually takes some force to seat the injectors o rings into the rail and into the manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 I can't hear the fuel pump cut on and I only got a couple squirts of gas out of the pressure test valve. I checked the fuel pump ballast resistor and there was corrosion all on the connections (ill be cleaning and refreshing the fuel pump ground tomorrow) but it seems like I hardly have any pressure. The truck was still trying to fire. I'm going to also test spark tomorrow. It started raining today. Do you guys think its my fuel pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Why would my fuel pump stop working all of a sudden, when it was working fine before the fuel leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradseals Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 you need to make sure your priming the fuel rail. meaning let it fill with fuel and push all of the air you let in during the injector swap OUT .(this will also help to make sure all of the injectors are pushing fuel when their supposed to and not air) .from what ive read the pressure should be around 30 psi or so . . to do that I believe all you have to do is switch the key on until you hear the pump shut off . then turn the key back (shut off the power) wait 20-30 sec and switch it back on . you should hear the pump kick on again for a few seconds or so and kick off . .with a rag and something small push in the schrader valve on the fuel rail and check tto see it any air purges from the rail and prime it a few more times . . I can't say this will work for sure but it might . . also it will be a pain in the butt, but check to make sure the connectors to each injector are clean and making good contact . . time and time again I'm puzzeled by how little amount of corrosion can block a decent connection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 The fuel rail should not be hard to put back on. You may have to turn the injectors singly to line them up with the holes, but once they are all lined up you should just be able to push with just enough hand pressure for the O-rings to pop in "thump". Then it should just pivot down and the mounting holes should be all lined up. Then you can install the fuel lines with new O-rings (o-ring, spacer, o-ring). Which part did you have trouble with? Did you put the vac line back on the fuel pressure regulator? Both ends? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 I just had trouble pressing the fuel rail on. I got it on though and used the old Oring to put the fuel line back in. They looked and felt fine. And I made sure all vac lines are connected and in good condition. I didn't know about the priming the fuel rail. Ill try that tomorrow as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradseals Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 if you oiled the O-rings the top and bottom (fuel rail and manifold obvi) you should be able to press the injectors into the rail quite easily then with all six in the rail line them up with the manifold and give it a couple of good careful pushes they should all go in most of the way . replace the four screws and tighten them and lastly give each one a good twist back and fouth . (they moved pretty easily with the oil) you will be able to tell if the o-ring is seated , if not it will sort of bind. . in the end if theyre not leaking I wouldn't worry about the seals, and yeah id try the priming just because its easy and may help , don't get too down and good luck . . if theres anything else I can think of ill lets ya know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 You don't have to "prime" the fuel rail with Jeep fuel injection. The submerged pump is in the tank; it's a pressure system not a suction system, forget priming. As soon as you turn the key to RUN the rail will fill up then cut off when the regulator sees about 30#. IF the fuel pump is receiving the correct voltage, the pump works, and there is enough fuel in the tank. If this is not happening, if the fuel pump isn't running then cutting off, report back. IF the pump starts, then stops in a few seconds, go to Autozone, borrow a fuel pressure gauge, hook it up to the fuel rail Schrader valve making sure that it's fitted with the correct connector that has an internal center pin that depresses the Schrader valve stem, turn the key on, and look at the gauge to see what the pressure is. You don't have to start it. If it's about 30# or more, report back. Did you happen to disconnect the fuel supply line quick-connector from the rail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 I can't hear the fuel pump cut on and I only got a couple squirts of gas out of the pressure test valve. I checked the fuel pump ballast resistor and there was corrosion all on the connections (ill be cleaning and refreshing the fuel pump ground tomorrow) but it seems like I hardly have any pressure. The truck was still trying to fire. I'm going to also test spark tomorrow. It started raining today. Do you guys think its my fuel pump? I'd make sure all the connections are good and corrosion-free before messing around with fuel pressure, and if that doesn't work, try bypassing the ballast resistor. Then start worrying about your fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 IF the fuel pump is receiving the correct voltage........... Since it was running fine before the OP spotted a fuel leak, changed injectors, now has a fuel problem, it's probably not a corrosion and/or ballast resistor problem. But I suppose anything is possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 I had a couple rainy days here in Bama so havent been able to work on it again until today. I turned the key to ON a couple times and got pressure in the rail. Then relieved it and did it again to make sure it was consistant. Then pulled the plugs and they were all wet with fresh gas (tried cranking it again before i pulled the plugs. and it got closer to starting this time) tomorrow I'm testing the fuel pressure and hopefully testing the actual spark on all plugs. I'm thinking its the spark plugs more than the fuel pump. How much pressure am I looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Did you bust the line going from the throttle body to the MAP sensor in the process of doing the injector swap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 With the engine running, 31 PSI at idle, jumping to 39 PSI when you unplug the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 I will check the map line again. Ill actually take it off this time. What pressure shluld I look for without the engine on? I still can't get it to start Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted December 1, 2013 Share Posted December 1, 2013 Try this: Turn the key on until the pump stops running. The gauge should read at least 30#. Turn the key off and watch the gauge to see if it holds pressure. If it drops immediately, it's probably the regulator (most likely) or the fuel pump check valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Knucklehead97 Posted December 1, 2013 Author Share Posted December 1, 2013 Fuel pressure was fine. Truck cranked and started! But runs EXTREMELY rough. And has unknown weird smelling smoke coming from behind the engine. I'm changing my MAP sensor hose tomorrow. What else could result in really rough idle and weird smelling smoke from behind the engine? Super happy it started. Now to figure the rest out :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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