Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know I used to have a 1995 XJ that popped the rear line and I lost all brakes completely. Straight to the floor. And I know for a FACT that the old style will maintain brakes because its the same ones that's in my s10 which currently and for the last 1.5years has a popped rear line. And I still can brake no problem off of the front And downshifting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I have gathered from a handful of people is that the 95/96 Booster will bolt to the Renix-era Master. 

 

Thankfully, I have access to all of the brake system of a 2001 XJ, so I will be using the front hard lines when I do the swap. And I can get an SAE to metric adapter line at work for the rear brake line. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I have gathered from a handful of people is that the 95/96 Booster will bolt to the Renix-era Master.  Sweet! That's what I wanted to hear!

 

Thankfully, I have access to all of the brake system of a 2001 XJ, so I will be using the front hard lines when I do the swap. And I can get an SAE to metric adapter line at work for the rear brake line.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Chevy style MC will not bolt to the dual diaphragm Chryco booster.  Not only is the push rod length different, the size of the bore in which the MC slides into the booster is not the same size, the threaded studs from the BB don't even come close to lining up with the holes on the MC.

 

I do know, that there was a dual diaphragm booster sold on eBay at one time that looks very similar to the the Chryco ones that do in fact work with the Chevy style MC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Here's a good one for you guys, I did this upgrade about two months ago and even after bleeding the pedal still isn't as firm as it should be.

But when I first get it In the morning, the pedal feels much stiffer like it should.

I've tried standard bleeding every which way and even bleeding at the master itself but I still can't seem to get all the air out.

Anyone have any unusual bleeding methods I can try?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Just a few notes here.

 

The ZJ booster/master is not a proven donor as far as I know.

It's either 95 to 96 with it's factory spacer or 99 to 2004 wJ and you mod the firewall a bit.

Buy one of these:  http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

 

WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster
 
Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ.
 
I've done both.
 
XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway.
But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster.
 
WJ you have to bend or cut the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle.
As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in.
Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylinder that make putting things together MUCH easier.
 
And, WJ boosters are newer and easier to find…..
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a good one for you guys, I did this upgrade about two months ago and even after bleeding the pedal still isn't as firm as it should be.

But when I first get it In the morning, the pedal feels much stiffer like it should.

I've tried standard bleeding every which way and even bleeding at the master itself but I still can't seem to get all the air out.

Anyone have any unusual bleeding methods I can try?

Are you still running the original soft lines? The extra pressure of the dual diaphragm booster couple with old rubber lines could equate to those old lines expanding under pressure. Get new rubber lines or convert to stainless lines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a good one for you guys, I did this upgrade about two months ago and even after bleeding the pedal still isn't as firm as it should be.

But when I first get it In the morning, the pedal feels much stiffer like it should.

I've tried standard bleeding every which way and even bleeding at the master itself but I still can't seem to get all the air out.

Anyone have any unusual bleeding methods I can try?

Are you still running the original soft lines? The extra pressure of the dual diaphragm booster couple with old rubber lines could equate to those old lines expanding under pressure. Get new rubber lines or convert to stainless lines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 7/18/2013 at 10:38 PM, HOrnbrod said:

That's way overkill. A 1/4" square aluminum plate with a center hole large enough for the booster arm movement and four 5/16" holes holes to match the booster studs is all you need. Thirty minutes of fab. If you can't grab one from the yard. Here's a pic. Unfortunately you can't buy one from the dealer; it's part of the 95-96 XJ brake booster package. Might as well do your brake upgrade right. Should have made a template of the spacer plate when I did mine.

Spacer.jpg.b84638b4f6a02fa69fa845e089fd929d.jpg

 

 

Sorry to revive an old topic here, but how important is that spacer? I just did the WJ booster on my 88 and I used 4 single 1/4" spacers and covered the round part with foam to seal it.

 

It brakes hard, but not until further down in the travel, but it is a gradual increase, not all or nothing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, MichiganDuck2 said:

 

Sorry to revive an old topic here, but how important is that spacer? I just did the WJ booster on my 88 and I used 4 single 1/4" spacers and covered the round part with foam to seal it.

 

It brakes hard, but not until further down in the travel, but it is a gradual increase, not all or nothing.

You don't use a spacer with the WJ. 

 

You clearance the firewall lip for proper brake pedal height and geometry. 

Booster firewall cut.jpg

Booster_firewall.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

You don't use a spacer with the WJ. 

 

You clearance the firewall lip for proper brake pedal height and geometry. 

Interesting. I did it based off of other people doing spacers with a WJ booster. I believe the reason was to get the pedal height closer to stock. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, MichiganDuck2 said:

Interesting. I did it based off of other people doing spacers with a WJ booster. I believe the reason was to get the pedal height closer to stock. 

The pedal height is the same on vehicles I've done with the 95 and spacer and the WJ without. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...