relyt120 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Man we should get you a relatively low miles block from the JY and swap over all your accessories, they are only $65 with the core charge here in lavergne. leave no MJ behind :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Man we should get you a relatively low miles block from the JY and swap over all your accessories, they are only $65 with the core charge here in lavergne. leave no MJ behind :wrench: Appreciate the offer. I may just take you up on that at some point :wrench: At this point the thing to do is to just put it back together and see what happens. I think it'll pour oil out of the back of the block, but it may run just fine. Time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Did you happen to get a picture of the block around the Seal. I am curious to see how bad the damage is, and if there may be a way to repair it. Damage doesn't always warrant replacement. It just depends on where the damage is, and if it will effect anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 This is the damaged area. Believe me when I say I really don't want to put an engine in it - and the more I look at it the more I think it may be ok. The only way to know for sure will be to put it back together and see how it does, which I want to do this weekend. Here is the #7 main bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 If all you are missing is that little corner at the very outer edge of the block where the crank is sitting then you should be fine. It's not in a location to effect the performance of the seal at all. If it were me, I would just clean it up and make sure no metal bits got into bad places and bolt the bearing cap back on and run it. I might toss in some black stuff RTV in the area where that gasket seal is for the cap to make sure oil won't seep out, but it shouldn't affect the running ability of the engine at all. If it bothers you that much, run it and buy a junkyard motor to rebuild on the side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 If all you are missing is that little corner at the very outer edge of the block where the crank is sitting then you should be fine. It's not in a location to effect the performance of the seal at all. If it were me, I would just clean it up and make sure no metal bits got into bad places and bolt the bearing cap back on and run it. I might toss in some black stuff RTV in the area where that gasket seal is for the cap to make sure oil won't seep out, but it shouldn't affect the running ability of the engine at all. If it bothers you that much, run it and buy a junkyard motor to rebuild on the side. I'm with you there - I'm thinking it should be fine since everything that's missing is "behind" the RMS. My wallet and my schedule both hope so too. My original plan was to take it off the road at 200,000 miles (at the rate I'm driving it, it will be many years) and build the original engine into a 4.6 stroker. That may or may not still happen. If the block does turn out to be screwed, I'll probably try to find a low miles engine to run for a while then rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted April 3, 2015 Share Posted April 3, 2015 Why not piece together said 4.6 while you drive this one? Set aside some cash and keep an eye out on craigslist for a good used motor. I've missed my change at a couple of complete running 4.0L's around my area for $170 and $250 respectively. Kinda wish I would have grabbed one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 3, 2015 Author Share Posted April 3, 2015 Why not piece together said 4.6 while you drive this one? Set aside some cash and keep an eye out on craigslist for a good used motor. I've missed my change at a couple of complete running 4.0L's around my area for $170 and $250 respectively. Kinda wish I would have grabbed one. Nothing's set in stone. I may very well do that. I was kind of wanting the stroker to be built from the original engine (for the sake of "originality" if that makes any sense) but building a used motor on the side is a perfectly valid option too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 20, 2015 Author Share Posted April 20, 2015 :banana: It ran last night! :banana: More details later. I pulled a very long night last night and got it back together enough to run. I could only run it for a short period at a time because the serpentine belt was off, but it ran! The only oil leak was at the very rear corner of the oil pan - that bolt was looser than the others. I have not run it since but we could very well be driving it next weekend. The RMS area and the chip in the block was completely dry after about a minute in a half total of running. Here's a list of parts that have been installed since it's been parked: 28mm front sway bar with new endlinks and bushings Passenger side window regulator Passenger side door glass (don't ask) Rear main seal Front main seal and timing cover gasket Timing set Valve cover gasket Oil pan and gasket Oil pump (standard volume) Water pump Thermostat and gasket All coolant hoses Heater control valve eliminated All door weatherstripping XJ style side mirrors with remote manual control Laredo interior door panels ..and I'm probably forgetting some. Needless to say I have a lot of updating to do. The semester is coming to an end and finals are 2 weeks from now so there will probably not be any serious updates until the second week of May. But it's alive again! :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 So... I drove it today. But not all is perfect. It sounds much better than it did before the work (I'm guessing getting rid of a 156,000 mile old timing chain had something to do with this) and seems to have more power than I ever remember it having, but it's suffering from a driveline vibration at all speeds and what sounds like a very loud road noise. I believe one or more of the new U-joints I put in are faulty, improperly installed, or both. I remember having some real trouble getting the new U-joints to seat properly, so the driveshaft's probably going to a driveline shop as soon as the semester is over. Otherwise, it seems to be doing okay. Oh, and the damn A/C quit working again, too. :wall: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando87mj Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 That's awesome to hear man ! Especially the "it has more power part " . And it's always the little things that go a long way like the U joints , Also How much of a difference in handling did the sway bar make ? Definitely enough to notice. It definitely felt more planted in the turns and body roll is reduced quite a bit. Took it around the block again today and now there's a green puddle on the passenger side floorboard. :doh: I'll have a damn near new truck by summer at this rate... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 :banana: :banana: IT LIVES! :banana: :banana: After 6 months, lots of frustration, a chip knocked off the block, more money than I'd rather say, and the occasional thought of selling it, I finally have a Jeep that doesn't mark its territory. Obviously there's going to be a lot of stuff not covered in the build thread - I didn't take many pics of the RMS replacement process or anything else, so I don't really have enough material to make one of my traditional pic-heavy updates. I'm not sure if I'll make a video update or just write a big, boring wall of text. The good news? It runs and drives better than ever, with a refreshed cooling system, new timing chain, replacement of all seals and gaskets, and door mirrors I can actually see out of! The bad news? I can't justify buying cheap oil anymore, since it's not going to leak it all out in a week like it used to. :fs1: I plan on making it out to the junkyard sometime this week or next to get a 96+ valve cover, a pair of door checks, and some other odds and ends. I'll probably even drive the truck just to say I can, even though the A/C currently are broke. The rear diff has been leaking for an unknown amount of time. Since I don't want my D35 to die even sooner than it sounds like it's going to, I fixed it. There is nothing in the world that I hate more than RTV sealant. The leak was also smelling up my garage. The spare got in my way, so I took it down. I seriously don't care if you know my plate number. Instead of using RTV sealant I used this gasket. "better" options are available but I'm not putting a $25 gasket on a dying axle. Tire. Wheel. Shiny diff cover. Springs. More wheels. Box. Picked up this tire and wheel at the JY a while ago. The tire is far from perfect but it holds air and will get me home if I need it. It's also the same size as my others! I also put on the "wing" style door mirrors while the truck was non-running. I have to fill in the holes from the old mirrors now but the visibility, ability to adjust them from the inside, and better looks are well worth it. I deserve anything you can say to me for letting the garage get so dirty. This will all get cleaned out in a couple of days, I promise Here's the short list of stuff I need to do to give it a 100% clean bill of health: - Fill holes in door from old-style mirrors - Fix A/C (or make it someone else's problem) - Replace heater core (will be doing any other interior business at this time. The heater core has been going bad for a long time so this is not news) Total Expenditures since January 2015: $404.13Junkyard Parts:Door panels: 1991 Jeep Cherokee LaredoFront bumper guards: 1992 Jeep Cherokee SportWindshield wiper motor: 1998 Jeep Cherokee SportTailgate handle: 1989 Jeep Comanche Mud flaps: 1987 Jeep Comanche Interior Quarter Panels: 1989 Jeep Comanche Courtesy Lights: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Country Front Sway Bar: Addco unit found in junkyard Maintenance Status:Oil changed 6qt generic 10W-30, 155,735 Brake pads, rotors, fluid and calipers replaced at 152,455 Brake shoes, drums, hardware and wheel cylinders replaced at 152,295 Starter replaced at 154,269 All gaskets replaced at 155,735 Odometer: 155,765 Tips: - The oil filter adapter O-ring kit sold in the parts stores is NOT correct for any vehicle made before July 16, 1992. This one fits 1987-July 15, 1992. - Fel-Pro sells a double lipped version of the 4.0 rear main seal. Use it. Back on the road, folks. . :MJ 1: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88Pghcomanche Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Congrats on getting it back on the road!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Glad to hear everything is coming back together for you :thumbsup: We should try to get some of the TN guys together soon. . :MJ 1: . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Thanks guys :thumbsup: Count me in for a TN meetup sometime soon. Any thoughts on when? I'm pretty much clear until August. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I'm out of town for 8 days starting 6-6 but any weekend day or Monday after that I would be down. Sort of think it would be cool to crash a car show Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted June 2, 2015 Author Share Posted June 2, 2015 Yeah, sounds like fun. You still have my number, don't you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crash Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 - The oil filter adapter O-ring kit sold in the parts stores is NOT correct for any vehicle made before July 16, 1992. The motormite universal o-ring kit works okay and is only a few dollars. ALso, there is a member here that sells a low priced "OFA seal kit" I have not installed it yet, but they look to be just fine. Waiting to change the seals for when I swap in some new motor mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Yeah, sounds like fun. You still have my number, don't you? Yeah i do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 After driving about 30 miles yesterday, I open the hood this morning to an engine absolutely COATED in oil from valve cover to oil pan (currently suspecting a valve cover gasket - if I take this valve cover off one more time it's getting replaced.) In addition there's a few drops of oil coming from the front of the oil pan gasket. Cue about 10 years worth of profanity in 30 seconds. :mad: :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megadan Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I've taken my valve cover off at least 5 times in the last year. Ever since I installed the more expensive fel pro gasket with the metal core and replaced all of my valve cover bolts with new ones My valve cover gasket leaks have stopped. Now I only get a tiny occasional drip from the rear of my engine, where before I got a decent sized spot. You will get it sorted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WiscoXJ Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 x2 for the blue felpro gasket. mine doesn't leak anymore. a lot of guys will put a small coat of silicone on there as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relyt120 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Are you running the 95+ valve cover? I agree with everyone about the blue felpro gasket, good seal...I even broke off one of the valve cover bolts at one point and it didn't leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now