Jump to content

The "get Me By" Mj Truggy


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 8 months later...
and finally moving day! I was super stoked to get the MJ into the new shop, didnt even care that it was raining!







 

Got a set of FOA 2.5" remote res 16" travel coilovers


Link to comment
Share on other sites

that brings me to about 2 weeks ago, still got a big update that most are prob gonna give me a hard time for but is really going to bring this build to the next level. ill get more updates tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i couldnt help it so i mocked up the hood and wheel base

 




 

got our plasma table running again


 

I had started thinking about making up the crawl ratio i was going to lose going from the 465 to the aw4 so got a really good deal on a brand new box for rocks kit and NWF triple stick set up. First I had to switch inputs in my doubler, luckily i had a broken 231 from the donor XJ


 

I had purchased another 300 a while back with a DEO flip kit to solve part of my 465-300 problems. had to woller out 3 holes to get the 231 clocked how i wanted on the pass side so i could get the 300 to fit.


 

I under estimated how long this drive train is... spent too much time staring at the 350-465-300

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so even tho i have acquired 8 jack stands over the years i was running low so i reused the wheel center from the H1s, cut center plates and gussets out on the plasma table and built some permanent ones to hold the MJ at ride height.


 

and then i came up with this really good idea to repair the rust in the floor...


 

now i know what yall are thinking... wtf is the point of even building this thing? its nothing left of an MJ! why not just build a buggy and get the hell out of the cherokee section?! which to a point yall have some merit. so let me explain... one thing i noticed this year at KOH was the lack of clean hard core unibody rigs, and no I'm not talking about in the race, I'm talking the every day people that come out to watch and wheel. Another thing that blew me away was the amount of attention and positive feed back we got while driving around in LilNickTs XJ. One thing that every "XJ Buggy" in this forum has in common is they all maintained some portion of the unibody frame rails. and for multiple reasons that i completely undersatnd, most evolved over time into a "buggy" so suspension, drive train, all that was already in place and retained. very few have started with a bare chassis, ONEtonXJ is the only one that comes to mind but he maintained the majority of the body, factor firewall and engine placement. do to the direction this build has taken i was left with no firewall limitations, 75% of the frame was already removed and the rust repair was not something i was looking forward to, and why? All so i could still have the unibody? why not get rid of it so I'm not limited by anything but the drive train for proper link geometry? now back to whats the point? I think I saw maybe 3 MJs at KOH, I'm sure there were more, but the biggest i saw was maybe on 37s. I really want to finish this rig and while there isnt much of the original MJ left, what i have planned should bring back a lot of the MJ look, and yes its pretty much a buggy at this point, but I'm OK with that. and i won't have to worry about the unibody starting to crack 5 years from now after beating on this thing like i plan. agree, disagree, as you can tell from previous posts, i don't really care. I'm really excited about the direction this is going and finally excited about finishing a rig again. sorry for the long soap box and back to pics!

 

ps, these posts are all copied off my pirate build so some of this doesnt apply here but the reasoning is still the same

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the drive train in place, wheel base mocked back up, settled in at 115 with a 20" belly, which is a little longer than i wanted but with the coil overs i can easily raise ride height if I'm constantly bellying out, or step up tire size when the 39.5s wear out. should be room for 6 up/ 10 down, might be room for 8 and 8 but i think I'm gonna leave it at 6 just in case i do decide to raise ride height later on.


 

the plan is to narrow the hood and grill, winch is going to sit behind it with the light bar frenched into the top of the grill. thinking about leaving the mechanical fan in and building mounts the the tranny and power steering cooler right in front of it so i don't have to run lines all the way back to the radiator behind the cab.


 

took the cage from bend tech and imported into autodesk inventor and mocked up the drive train and axles


 

Geometry front and rear, will be adjustable up and down about 10% each way from this point. pretty happy with it, excellent pinion tracking in the model, flat roll axis front to rear and a negative roll axis angle at each axle, should be a very stable and predictable set up.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

so the plan from here is to build a plate subframe, kinda keep the "unibody" theme and ive always really liked the extra craftsmanship it shows when people run them on their buggy builds.

 

so this is just in mock up stage right now, its a very simple representation that mainly is going to be used to verify the model and drive train placement so i can mock up links and check clearances throughout travel before i spend a bunch of time and material building the final version.

 



 

cut it out on the plasma table using some .125" i got for free. still fairly new to using the cnc so i also started experimenting with self jigging brackets. turned out pretty good, was in a hurry so didnt fully vet the drawing first so theres a couple tabs that moved do to drawing adaptivity that changed...



 

assembled and installed, appears to clear everything, i need to take about an 1/8 out around the tcase but pretty happy for the first shot





 

so i left the front of the subframe open to clear the drive shaft, i can't run a two piece and get the 10"s of down travel I'm shooting for. I'm going to support the front lowers with a tube that ties into the dash bar, this will also act as the edge of my dog house/firewall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

final piece to bring us up to current, the sides of the subframe will cradle an 1.75 tube that will run front to back and serve as coolant lines.



 

That brings me up to last night, got a lot done in the last month or so and things are moving along at a good pace.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah, she's just an oversized lap dog!

 

Nick came down to help hammer out some details on the chassis this weekend, got a little distracted at the 4wp expo... Which was kinda disappointing... But non the less got quite a bit accomplished.

 

Main goal for the weekend was to get the frame rails built, which was a challenge to say the least.

 

Made a couple small changes to the geometry, and moved the motor back and closer to center.

 

 

 

Axle at full bump, 6" up, might have been able to squeeze 8" out of it but would've made things really tight. Gonna stick with 6" for now because I'm not settled on the 20" belly and may raise the rig later.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Added some more to the bend tech model.

 

 

Got both coolant lines bent up before nick had to fly back to little rock.

 

I think I've done more out of plane bending on this build than anything else I've done...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The back spacing is 3.5", wms is like 68 or 69. Total width is 83"

 

Redwolf, you might be in luck, it might still be floating around my shop. Ill look when I get home. If I have it I'll send it to you for the price of shipping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The back spacing is 3.5", wms is like 68 or 69. Total width is 83"

 

Redwolf, you might be in luck, it might still be floating around my shop. Ill look when I get home. If I have it I'll send it to you for the price of shipping.

alright fingers crossed :)

 

Redwolf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

And redwolf, I was not able to find the shifter boot, don't know why it would've been thrown away but who knows. This thing sat in the shed for over a year...

dang, alright, any idea what the part number was? google is a wonderful thing to search when ya got the numbers :)

 

Redwolf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...