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SLAM IT.   ...I'm short.  My theory is if I am going to fix this truck to be useful I should be able to actually get things into the bed.  I struggled to lift the replacement transmission up

I am over here thinking about the logistics of getting someone to swap their stock axles with my D30 and D44 with 4.56 gearing.  Then I remembered that I have an entire junk MJ sitting around with sto

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Nice little setup with the horn there; also, stellar work on that back board. :cheers:

 

Might have to take that idea and replace mine down the road. Some of the mounting tabs that go under the carpet seem to not want to stay attached any longer. Guess it had a hard life. :dunno:

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Nice little setup with the horn there; also, stellar work on that back board. :cheers:

 

Might have to take that idea and replace mine down the road. Some of the mounting tabs that go under the carpet seem to not want to stay attached any longer. Guess it had a hard life. :dunno:

The backer board is made of pressed cardboard. Any moisture or water immediately deteriorates the material. :( Though it holds up to water better than MJ floor pans!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a teaser of the rear bumper. A local fabricator in the RCRC club put this all together and

did the finish work. I could not stop touching it and rubbing my hand over the smooth metal! I will be at the 19th Annual All Breeds Jeep Show in York, PA this coming weekend.

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How big is that all breeds show? I live in Ohio and I'm debating wether or not to make the 4 1/2 hour trip . Think its worth it? How much is it ? Thanks Alexia .

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

The fabricator was worried I would need to fill areas to make the paint look great. I did not bother and it came out amazing!

Maybe it looks good because your paint is a flat / satin finish?

 

VHT paint can says gloss actually. He was worrying about small imperfections and was very oriented about small details of putting this together. There were a couple small welding pits that he even ground out, rewelded, and smoothed again. I saw someone else with the JCR MJ rear bumper kit at the PA Jeep show and it looked no where near as good as this.

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When I was up in PA for the Jeep show I picked up a factory OEM header panel from MrSimon.

 

It was in good condition and needed some filler for various rock chips all over. I ended up not getting all of them filled, but I did the most important spots such as chips along the top edge. Parts to rebuild the headlight harness with 14 gauge wire is still on the way so I will be installing this later in the week.

 

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man, what a great job you've done!!! well done!

 

Thanks!

 

Gotta do a augest update walk around of the jeep! Love watching them on youtube

Ha, yeah, it has been a year since the last one! I am sitting at home sick right now trying to also fix my LJ at the same time.

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Harness stripped, wires pulled, and right headlight connector redone with 14 gauge wire. The H4 connectors are ceramic with a plastic casing.

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I used Scotch Super 33+ electrical tape for sealing and Scotch Tough Duct Tape Extreme Hold in a very dark silver to mount to the factory clips.

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Left headlight connector and wires done. I remembered to cut the duct tape in two this time.

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Hella weatherproof relays and sockets.(007794301 and H84709001) Fuse holders will have 10 amp fuses to supply a minimum of 100 watts safely. All wiring splices are done with heat shrink weather seal butt splices. About five feet of wiring and a short 14 gauge ground wire to the spot as the stock harness on the left fender. The final sheathing and wrapping will done in vehicle to get the lengths correct.

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I usually don't like chrome grills but your's looks GREAT!  Would actually look bad with body color or black grill.  Good Eye.

Yep, I'm okay with it! The chrome came off the eBay special replacement header panel and I do not have the spare funds to just buy a black grill to see what it looks like.(Nor do I want to try PlastiDip on the grill's surface and try to get it off later.)

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It's good to see you asking about IATs, you must be close to installing the Sprintex SC. 

 

Using the Sprintex SC on a stroker 4.6L is an uncharted area.  On a stock 4.0L with stock pulleys boost is around 6 pounds.  With your ported, cammed, 4.6L boost might only be 3-4 pounds and at that level might only add a delta of 40 degree C to your incoming air (+102*F) on top of ambient and actual inlet tract air temp (usually 20-30 degrees hotter than ambient).  Still close or above 200* IAT.  With your 6 bigger injectors and AEM FIC, Cowl intake and Meth/washer fluid injection might be in your future. 

But I am sure you already know this as you are asking all the right questions.  Look forward to your install.

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If you have a spare stock jeep alternator laying around you can rob the pulley from it. With a little modification it can be made to work with the sprintex. That's what I did. Went from a stock 58mm sprintex pulley to a 54mm jeep alternator pulley. I still haven't got it over 6 pounds, but the boost now comes in almost 1000 rpms lower. I'm also still running a stock size throttle body which is restrictive but doesn't change the fun factor.

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If you have a spare stock jeep alternator laying around you can rob the pulley from it. With a little modification it can be made to work with the sprintex. That's what I did. Went from a stock 58mm sprintex pulley to a 54mm jeep alternator pulley. I still haven't got it over 6 pounds, but the boost now comes in almost 1000 rpms lower. I'm also still running a stock size throttle body which is restrictive but doesn't change the fun factor.

Crankshaft Pulley = 6.5"

Stock Supercharger Pulley = 2.28"(58mm)

Alternator Pulley = 2.12"(54mm)

 

Stock ratio = 2.85

New ratio = 3.06

 

At 5,000 RPM the supercharger would be spinning at 14,816 RPM with stock and 15,905 RPM. That is 905 RPM past the supercharger's rating. The optimal safe pulley size would by 57mm to run at a maximum of 15,022 RPM.

 

If I go on the fact that the AW4 typically shifts before or at 5,000 RPM the safest smallest would be 55mm to achieve 15,046 RPM.

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Automatic tranny... how "often" and how "long" do you spend at five grand. I'm lucky if the tranny even lets me hit 4500rpms. Seems to work great for me and others as well. I just thought I would let you know the pulley works great and functions better than the stock pulley for around town. It still pulls 7 pounds of vacuum at 60mph and only sees boost if my foot asks it to. I'm sure your stock pulley will suit you just fine but after using both I will definitely keep the 54mm on mine.

 

P.S. this is just my opinion not a rant. Best of luck with your project.

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Automatic tranny... how "often" and how "long" do you spend at five grand. I'm lucky if the tranny even lets me hit 4500rpms. Seems to work great for me and others as well. I just thought I would let you know the pulley works great and functions better than the stock pulley for around town. It still pulls 7 pounds of vacuum at 60mph and only sees boost if my foot asks it to. I'm sure your stock pulley will suit you just fine but after using both I will definitely keep the 54mm on mine.

 

P.S. this is just my opinion not a rant. Best of luck with your project.

My AW4 usually shifts at 4,800 RPM and surges up to 5,000 RPM. I had already considered going to a smaller pulley to start with and I plan to see if I can obtain a 55mm pulley. The difference at lower RPMs is minimal enough that I rather go for the safer side as I do sometimes get crazy with manual shifting. :P

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Definitely I would and I do use a larger TB before using a smaller pulley.  62mm TB at minimum.  I use a F+B 70mm currently.  Larger TB with More boost at lower SC rpm and lower charge intake air temps is better than restricting inlet with stock TB and spinning SC faster for more boost and higher SC rpm and higher chsrge intake air temps.

 

Max continuous speed is 15,000rpm rating.  4800-4850 even 5000 for a second or two, I am sure intermitant max speed rating is higher than 15,000rpm.

 

For real fun and boost, use a 49mm pulley.  Did see on a cold night 12.5 pounds boost getting onto the freewayand popped a 160k mile head gasket.  Replaced with MLS and new head bolts and ported big valve head and 'lost' a couple pounds boost but made more power.

 

Need a gatorback belt and accurate belt tensioning to keep from slipping.

 

My experience and opinions have been known to get me in trouble.  Can't wait to see the Sprintex on a Stroker 4.6L.  I'm sure it will be truely awesome.

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I already have a 63mm throttle body and the supercharger opening is roughly 66mm so I have no plans to upgrade that yet.

 

I hope people are patient on me. I am saving up for all the things I need to get this supercharger installed. $338 for fuel injectors and possibly I might need to get Brown Dog's Super Header Kit. The fan pulley bolts have already contacted the middle electric fan at least once. Then there is exhaust!

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