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MJ Prerunnerish 5.3L Swapperoooo


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I chatted with a knowledgable Poly Performance rep and found out that suspension is big bucks. He recommended running coil overs in the front as lift coils aren't stiff enough for jumping and the tunability is tremendous. Using a 2.5" body 14" travel front coil over and a 2.5" body 16" travel rear shock my wallet would take a $2200 hit. That would be with King shocks, Fox would be even more cash. I'm looking into black market organ sales.

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Hell yeah I live in NH, and 80's cars are the best. Cheap, non OBD and I think they look great.

 

 

More info on what's in the growler please image_209027.gif nothing wrong with some homebrew!

 

Oh the homebrew. That particular one was a spring pale ale that I backhopped with citra and amarillo, came out really floral and citrusy without the bitterness of an IPA. I've got a chest freezer with an 8 corny keg capacity and four taps. It's becoming an addiction. We brew one all grain 10 gallon batch a week, maybe it already is an addiction. :rotf:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Put some more stuff together.

 

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Did some lines. :yay: NiCop FTW.

 

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The stock latch location is inside of my current radiator. If you have to use hood pins, might as well get the fancy ones.

 

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Upper radiator hose is two piece and has a pipe between with a nipple for the steam line.

 

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Hose.

 

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Lines.

 

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Bling.

 

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Hood art. 32" wide. Thinking of "MKMYDY" license plate.

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  • 1 month later...
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WHAT!?!??! You live in NH!?!?!?

 

Hell yeah to 80's sports cars and Jeep pickup trucks!

 

This is my daily:

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Wow, I can't believe how many NH MJ ownwers are on here yet I very rarely ever see another MJ on the road.

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  • 5 weeks later...

I haven't posted up on this build for awhile, but there has been some progress. After the wiring was finished, of course I wanted to drive the damn thing. That began the clutch disengagement fiasco. Long story short the trans came in and out three times, I lengthened the throwout bearing arm pivot. I threw an old extension on the lathe and made it long enough for the arm to be in its forward most position in the bell housing hole.

 

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Then I ended up swapping to a Wilwood master and finally swapping out the pressure plate to arrive at a functioning clutch. Lord have mercy. I then started on the brakes, after some digging I found out that the owner of the Wagoneer that I got the axles out of used '85 Lincoln Continental calipers when he did the rear disc brake conversion. Threw some new calipers and pads on as well as a new master, which I couldn't resist throwing in the powder oven.

 

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My brother came over Friday and started on the exhaust system, just a simple 2.5" dual into a single muffler to a 3" tailpipe. Threw a bunch of V-bands on it for good measure and this is how it sits.

 

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Kind of reminds me of BMW exhaust with the pipes running parallel like that.

 

Pulled the springs out today to check clearances at bump and compression

 

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Here it is all hunkered down. The track bar hits the oil pan at this point, but the bracket on the frame side needs to be lowered to put the drag link and track bar parallel. Once that is done I'll decide if I need to put a bend in it for ultimate clearance. Either way I will be bump stopping it so I won't have to worry about cracking that oil holder when I come down from some air borne fun.

 

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Here she is at full droop, you can clearly see that the links aren't parallel, hello bumpsteer. I'm thinking that I will end up using a 14" travel shock or coilover. Not too excited about the hit that will have on my wallet though.

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Did you use an F Body LS ? How did you squeeze the alternator between the block and power steering pump ?

Also if you can avoid it any don't use Kryo Kool Radiators they are junk... $700 ill never get back due to the amount of time it took me to finish my LS1 swap

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