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1986 MJ 2.5L 4x4 | "Heavy Four"


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On Saturday, 12/3/11, I drove to Iowa to check out a spare truck 'Rokhound' had for sale......

.....and ended up dragging it home:

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1986 Longbed 2.5L/AX5/207 D30/35

It is rusty, it is crusty, it doesn't run and it is exactly what I wanted. I plan on using this truck as a daily-driver/winter beater and farm hauler.

 

The immediate plan

- Order Luk clutch kit from Carolina Clutch and replace the clutch

- Install transmission and transfercase

- Replace motor mounts and transmission mount

- Replace control arms/bushings with lightly used TJ arms

- Replace shocks with lightly used Monroes from my '92

- Use stock aluminum wheels from my '92 with the 30" tires from my 99 XJ donor

- Rebuild my '92 bench seat with headrests and install

- Pull and replace or clean the carpet

- Patch floor boards

- Install 'Fey' rear bumper

 

The 'later-on' plan

- Replace TRE's and Tie-Rod with V8 ZJ

- Upgrade to V8 ZJ Progressive rate front coil springs

- Upgrade trackbar to used RE1600 with TRE at frame mount

- Upgrade to Hell Creek MT or AAL rear leaf springs

 

Once she is running good and strong, I will lightly media blast the rusted areas and treat with POR15 left over from my '92 build to stop the rust.

 

2.5L TBI - I have some learning to do here

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The frame is surprisingly very solid

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Interior... with 3/4 cluster!

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Parts in the bed

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Tucked in the barn awaiting some much deserved attention

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  • 2 weeks later...

More goodies arrived:

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Fel-Pro FS9196 PT-1, full engine gasket kit. I was pricing out the rear main, head gasket, valve cover gasket, timing chain cover and oil pan gaskets and found that the full engine kit was much cheaper!

 

Also ordered the V8 ZJ tie rod and ends. This round I did not go with Moog because I have heard they are the same as TRW. Well, the TRW and Moog part numbers are the same....and so are the parts. I also decided to try some of the cheap stuff Advance sells, DriveWorks.

 

Tie Rod: TRW/Moog DS1312

Tie Rod End: DriveWorks ES3096L

Adjusting Sleeve: DriveWorks ES2079S

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Today I had two "DOAH!" moments:

 

1. Inspected the AX5 transmission in the bed and thought I had discovered it is for an EXTERNAL SLAVE and the clutch kit I bought is for internal. Had a panic attack and thought I needed to find the proper fork assembly, slave, throwout bearing, etc.... :roll: Clearly, there is no provisions for a fork in that housing....

 

2. Put the battery on the charger for a couple hours. Radio, lights, etc work. I also could hear the fuel pump cycle and the low-fuel light on the dash illuminated. I wanted to turn it over a couple of times. Clutch in, turn the key.... nothing. Starter is not installed :ack:

 

I spent some time putting my 99XJ donor tires/mismatched wheels on the truck. It now rolls easy and has sufficient clearance to work on the chassis. It was missing 4 lug nuts, stole those from the XJ as well. Anybody have two extra 'turbine' wheels?

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Pulled the moldy, flimsy, wet headliner, well as the bench and wet carpet.

Passenger side isn't bad at all:

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Driver side isn't as bad as my 92 was:

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Headliner trying to dry out on top of the internal slave set up:

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The floors are suprisngly good compared to the rust on the outside!! Is it just surface rust? What's the plan with the truck? Looks awesome!

The driver side does have holes in it, primarily around the firewall/floorboard seam and one in the back corner.I will also cut the sheet metal of of the donor and do a 'patch' fix. I will media blast the rust on the outside body and coat in POR15 and weld in new metal where I can.

 

This truck will be my DD until the 92 is finished. It will also be a farm truck and my wife's "hey the snow is too deep for my Camry" rig.

 

rear brake height sensing thing is hooked up wrong.... But you probably already knew that... umn.gif

Yup :ack: I don't know why the prop valves always gets hooked up wrong by folks. The brake system has bigger problems than that though. It is missing a brake pad up front.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Something a little rare showed up today for this little utility truck:

 

Yup, I got my grubby hands on an original Warn Hidden Winch set up. Some of you may recognize the packaging as this exact kit has been floating around the country for several years. This is NOT the factory hidden winch assembly that was available through Jeep. This was simply Warns rendition of the hidden winch mount (#22035) and has been discontinued for some time. Unlike the factory hidden winch, Warn designed an assembly that allows the winch to mount foot down.

 

 

And proof that I do care about you guys:

When I have time... I will scan the tracings and create a CAD file of the parts then build a replica :thumbsup: From my quick study of the pieces, the bulk of it seems to be cut from 3/16" C-Channel.

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Are you sure the truck is a 1987 and not a 1986? A lot of stuff on the truck looks like it's from a 1986.

Errrr :doh: You are correct. I just pulled the title out of my files and it is indeed a 1986. Guess you can't always believe the seller. Thank you for setting me straight and preventing a major case of confusion at the DMV!

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Anybody have two extra 'turbine' wheels?

 

Are these the wheels you are refering to? I have a set of 4 of them that I was thinking of using for small tires in case I needed smaller ones for inspection but I guess I could part ways with them. I'll double check when I get off work today.

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Anybody have two extra 'turbine' wheels?

 

Are these the wheels you are refering to? I have a set of 4 of them that I was thinking of using for small tires in case I needed smaller ones for inspection but I guess I could part ways with them. I'll double check when I get off work today.

Yep, those are the wheels I am after. If you have them, we can talk. Also, if you have the center caps :brows: Seems like most folks around here junk these wheels. Still on the search!

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The transfer case in your truck would be an NP207, not an NP231. The NP231 wasn't used until 1987. I hope this info helps.

True, thanks for pointing that out. It is indeed a NP207 manufactured in 1985. However, the t-case is attached to the internal slave ax5 sitting in the bed which would indicate an 87+ assembly. At least I thought the 86's had an external slave....

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Today a good friend of mine picked up the truck and hauled it to his shop. He will be welding in new floors/patch panels. I am not looking for a pretty repair job, just something sturdy that will keep the dirt on the bottom side of the cab.

 

Pulled with his sweet Dodge. Truck didn't even realize the MJ was on the trailer :brows:

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what size tires are on those wheels. i am getting a set and was wondering what they would look like. still debating on the lift though. wanting to see what I can comfortably fit.

The tires are a 30x9.5 and the truck has no lift. I believe you can fit a 31x10.5 tire on a stock MJ with little to no rubbing.

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Something a little rare showed up today for this little utility truck:

 

Yup, I got my grubby hands on an original Warn Hidden Winch set up. Some of you may recognize the packaging as this exact kit has been floating around the country for several years. This is NOT the factory hidden winch assembly that was available through Jeep. This was simply Warns rendition of the hidden winch mount (#22035) and has been discontinued for some time. Unlike the factory hidden winch, Warn designed an assembly that allows the winch to mount foot down.

 

 

And proof that I do care about you guys:

When I have time... I will scan the tracings and create a CAD file of the parts then build a replica :thumbsup: From my quick study of the pieces, the bulk of it seems to be cut from 3/16" C-Channel.

 

 

Oh, thank you Jesus for engineers. Let us know when you get the CAD file?

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Oh, thank you Jesus for engineers. Let us know when you get the CAD file?

Not an engineering background, but landscape architecture. Nonetheless, I will share what I come up with with the Comanche community ;)

 

 

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15166 says otherwise. You may not have the CE behind your name, but that build is straight up engineer level thoroughness.

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Thunderbear said:
http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15166 says otherwise. You may not have the CE behind your name, but that build is straight up engineer level thoroughness.

Thank you for the comments. I was all slated to get a ME degree, but got accept into the architecture school and tried it out. In hindsight, I probably should have stuck with my gut.

 

Did a little work on the truck today. Got the floors cut out any my buddy started welding in patch panels:

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Pulled the fenders:

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Being an '86 it took me a while to figure out how the fender/header panel mount which is quite different than my '92 or the '99 XJ.

 

Before:

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During:

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Instead of trying to repair the rusted rockers I have decided to replace the rockers with 2x6 (or 2x5 if I can find it locally) box tube. At the front of the rocker, the distance from the inner rocker to the outer rocker is 4 1/2" and the distance from the inner rocker to the outer portion of the cab corner is 5". I plan to weld the box tube to the bottom side of the inner rocker and along the door sill. On the drive side this will also provide a new mounting point for the floor as it has rotted away. The box tube will protrude from the side of the truck some, but I believe it will look sharp painted black.

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Speaking from experience........

 

If you can install that box tube at a little bit of a down-angle, do. Having that box tube stick out so close below your doors like a shelf is a real pain in the keester during the winter. A wet snow that freezes later can make it hard to get into your truck.... or road wash can freeze..... and you'll be stuck INSIDE your rig. Give the water and snow a way to run off the shelf.

 

Also, if you take it off road and smack that box tube upward, it'll bind the door shut. You're only welding it to flimsy sheet metal and it's real easy to "re-position" those box tube rockers. :thumbsup:

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