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CamoCrazy

Lift Kit Question?

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I was wonderin if puttin 35in tires would be too much tire to put on a Comanche with 6.5 inch lift...and the truck does have cut out fender flares, so theres 1-2in more clearance.

So does anyone have any advice to give?

 

Thanks for the help

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they make a 8in lift for these and if that aint enough you can put the coil spacers and the chevy drop shackles on it for a extra 2in

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I run 35" tires on 6.5" lift. It can be done with cutting, adjustable control arms and bump stopping. I don't know about the original poster, but for the off-camber wheeling I do, 8 or 9" lift will definitely put me on my side if not on the roof. Even with 1.5" wheel spacers in the rear, at 6.5" I have had a few pucker moments. One where I was stopped by a tree, one where it looked like it was going over, but then settles back again, and one where it was balancing on two wheels for a couple of seconds before I back the truck out a few inches. That time we ended up tying a tow strap to one of the cargo loops in the bed with a bunch of people pulling on it to keep it rubber side down through that spot.

 

On top of that, Rusty has left a bad taste in the mouth of multiple members on here due to low quality product, and warranty claims being a nightmare to deal with. Supposedly their coil springs are good, though, but I don't personally know anyone who uses them.

 

Don't know what you use for a rear axle, but you will be at the edge of the D30 front. I go through a few axle shafts and u joints each year (although if I were not locked in the front they would probably last longer) as well as multiple unit bearings. On top of that I have had to do a complete differential rebuild also. The best affordable u joints I had found were the cold forged, non cross drilled Spicer 5-760x ones, but Alloy USA now makes a Chromoly one for $35. A friend of mine has one on his Cherokee, but not enough experience with it yet to do a strength comparison.

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I have 6" springs with plenty of sag and 35's fit fine. You might need to trim a little more, or flatten the weld seam in the wheels wells so they don't catch the tire. Longer bumpstops are a good idea too.

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I run 35" tires on 6.5" lift. It can be done with cutting, adjustable control arms and bump stopping. I don't know about the original poster, but for the off-camber wheeling I do, 8 or 9" lift will definitely put me on my side if not on the roof. Even with 1.5" wheel spacers in the rear, at 6.5" I have had a few pucker moments. One where I was stopped by a tree, one where it looked like it was going over, but then settles back again, and one where it was balancing on two wheels for a couple of seconds before I back the truck out a few inches. That time we ended up tying a tow strap to one of the cargo loops in the bed with a bunch of people pulling on it to keep it rubber side down through that spot.

 

On top of that, Rusty has left a bad taste in the mouth of multiple members on here due to low quality product, and warranty claims being a nightmare to deal with. Supposedly their coil springs are good, though, but I don't personally know anyone who uses them.

 

Don't know what you use for a rear axle, but you will be at the edge of the D30 front. I go through a few axle shafts and u joints each year (although if I were not locked in the front they would probably last longer) as well as multiple unit bearings. On top of that I have had to do a complete differential rebuild also. The best affordable u joints I had found were the cold forged, non cross drilled Spicer 5-760x ones, but Alloy USA now makes a Chromoly one for $35. A friend of mine has one on his Cherokee, but not enough experience with it yet to do a strength comparison.

 

If Rustys seems to be a problem, what brand of lift(that makes 8") do you recommend?

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I would not recommend 8" But if you really want to go that high, definitely BDS.

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I would not recommend 8" But if you really want to go that high, definitely BDS.

 

 

Okay, and understand this ain't gonna be my "take it out and run it wide open" truck. This will be my daily driver and play alittle on the weekends. But thanks for the advice, for a beginner like me, anything can help

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Okay, and understand this ain't gonna be my "take it out and run it wide open" truck. This will be my daily driver and play alittle on the weekends. But thanks for the advice, for a beginner like me, anything can help

 

 

 

why don't you just run 33's then and a 4.5in lift

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Okay, and understand this ain't gonna be my "take it out and run it wide open" truck. This will be my daily driver and play alittle on the weekends. But thanks for the advice, for a beginner like me, anything can help

 

 

 

why don't you just run 33's then and a 4.5in lift

 

It's just always been a dream/wish of mine to have at least a 6.5in lift and 35's. And I'm thinkin I might as well go big or go home. Sooo, that's just my thought, and the comment above yours recommended "BDS" for the lift but the highest lift they have for Comanches are 3. Is there a brand that you would recommend(that makes at least a 6.5in lift...preferably 8in)

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Okay, and understand this ain't gonna be my "take it out and run it wide open" truck. This will be my daily driver and play alittle on the weekends. But thanks for the advice, for a beginner like me, anything can help

 

 

 

why don't you just run 33's then and a 4.5in lift

 

It's just always been a dream/wish of mine to have at least a 6.5in lift and 35's. And I'm thinkin I might as well go big or go home. Sooo, that's just my thought, and the comment above yours recommended "BDS" for the lift but the highest lift they have for Comanches are 3. Is there a brand that you would recommend(that makes at least a 6.5in lift...preferably 8in)

 

Cherokee front is the same as Comanche front. Get the front part of their Cherokee 8.5" long arm lift, in the rear go SOA with a 3" lift spring pack. (Hell Creek or Motion Offroad, I believe they are the same, both of them are on this board).

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what are you doing for gears and axles? brake upgrades? will this truck see any highway travel?

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what are you doing for gears and axles? brake upgrades? will this truck see any highway travel?

 

I believe we are gonna lower the axle gears and see how it acts. Then go from there. But yeah, the biggest part of the miles we have put on it are highway miles. And some around town.

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the stock axles are not strong enough to survive very long with such an enormous tire. and if you have a 35 rear, regearing it is a complete waste of money. the 30 front can be upgraded with late model axle shafts (to get the bigger u-joints) and it should last a bit, but there's no guarantee since it can bend into a smile if you're harsh on it.

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the stock axles are not strong enough to survive very long with such an enormous tire. and if you have a 35 rear, regearing it is a complete waste of money. the 30 front can be upgraded with late model axle shafts (to get the bigger u-joints) and it should last a bit, but there's no guarantee since it can bend into a smile if you're harsh on it.

 

Is it rough on the axles if it's a daily driver and not an offroad rig?

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I blew up a Dana 35 on 30" tires and pure street driving (truck was a 2wd DD). you can certainly try, but I would have a plan in motion for replacement. If you're going to invest money into your truck (regearing can cost 500 or more per axle), do it right the first time or you'll be doing it twice. A 97+ XJ 8.25, 95+ explorer 8.8, or MJ/XJ dana 44 would be a good place to put your money when it comes to the rear axle. 35" tire are not to be taken lightly if you need to depend on this vehicle.

 

what are you doing for brakes? it ain't going to stop like it does now once you put massive rubber under it. a double-booster swap should be in your future.

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Aside from the unit bearings, the D30 should survive okay as a daily driver on 35s. Run shafts with the larger u joints, use some quality joints like the Spicer 5-760X, or the Ally USA Chromoly ones keep the diff open. Although fine for stock tires you will grenade Duralast Gold (Autozone) and Neapco Brute Force (Advance Auto Parts) with 35" tires. Find a line on cheap unit bearings (like a local junk yard), because they get expensive replacing a few $100 new ones a year. Especially since most only have a 1 year warranty instead of lifetime.

 

A rear D35 will hate you with 35" tires. If you have a D44 you'll be okay. If not, upgrade to a 29 spline Chrysler 8.25" or a Ford 8.8" with wheel spacers. They are both plenty strong and easy to find for cheap.

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To each their own...

 

We wheeled our MJ on 35" tires (6.5" lift) with a stock D35 rear axle for aprox 3 years without a single issue ever. Why? We wanted to see how long it would last with the mentality we'll replace it with something after we break it. After 3 years it never broke; we did however upgrade to a AMC20 simply because we had it. The D35 out of the MJ is still sitting in the shop as a spare. Several here have wheeled with me and have seen that I'm not "easy" on my Jeeps offroad either....

 

I am in no way saying the D35 should be looked at as a strong axle; nor am I saying I'd ever recommend to one of our customers to run the D35 with 35 (or even 33" tires). However I am saying that we've run 35" tires on the D35 axle without issues. Heck I'm still running the D35 w/35's on my summer daily driver YJ after 4 years without a single issue. I've ran 35's on the D35 of at least 4 of my own Jeeps and never broke anything....

 

-Adam

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