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I have been reading up on it for a while and really thought about doing for no other reason than to be different. I will have to conclude that unless you really really need to....... It is better to just stick with the leafs. The Pro's I have found. It's cool, Looks good, makes a great conversation piece and if you are rock crawling every other day I would do it. The Con's I have discovered. Usually set ups are to keep center of gravity low, Leaf springs handle a lot of weight better if you still need to use your truck as a truck, The gas tank will be an issue. The bed and frame will more than likely need extensive alterations, a lot of time measuring and calculating proper link length and mounting and a lot of money to buy the right materials.

 

The more I have researched the more I am leaning towards just doing a few easy mods to my leafs and run with it. Money is getting tight and it seems that as the years go by my spare time is less and less.

 

I would love to see a true triangulated 4 link on a daily driver that wasn't turned into a truggy. Even if it wasn't mine first.

 

I would imagine that once the first one has been built and all the info was posted others will be quick to follow.

 

Keep the dreams alive!

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Just a thought, but I wonder if using the rear setup from a TJ or ZJ would be a good starting point. Then one could just copy the angles that Jeep used from the factory, would take some of the guesswork out of it, probably wouldn't be any easier.

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Just a thought, but I wonder if using the rear setup from a TJ or ZJ would be a good starting point. Then one could just copy the angles that Jeep used from the factory, would take some of the guesswork out of it, probably wouldn't be any easier.

 

 

If you are going through the hassle of a 4-link, better to do it triangulated and not have to deal with panhards. This is time consuming, costly, etc.

 

Yes, 4-links can be done. However, unless you go full truggy on your MJ, the LOOOOOONG mj leafs do more than a good enough job of flexing out and riding great.

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:agree: you would have to remove the bed and butcher the rear frame to get the full potential out of the factoy leafs so you would never see the benefit of a 4 link on a stockish MJ

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I agree that triangulated is the only way to go if you are going to do it from scratch and severe modification depends on what you are setting up the truck for. If you want the low center of gravity like all the rock crawler creations then yes the bed and all the other stuff has to be eliminated or radically changed. If you set up a truck for height then I think the bed and such wouldn't be an issue. The benifits of a 4 link are more than just articulation. They can be tuned for various applications. There are advantages to each and it is a personal choice much like plasma vs LCD vs LED. That is why I love this site, so many idea's from stock to radical and everything in between. Keep the idea's coming!!!!! My failure could be your thought leading to everyone's successful creation.

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I don't know how tall you plan to go but I'm at 6.5" and I hit frame long before I run out of flex.

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How tall, probably tall enough that most would put me in the class of "what were you thinking". The thought of 38's running through my head, one ton axles (which would widen the foot print, giving more room at the backside of the tires). This whole idea is to be different then others more than perfect functionality. I'm not a leaf spring hater by any means. I can't be, I have seen to many rigs with amazing talent. As a confession, I am doing a spring over this month till the budget allows to do the triangulated set up properly.

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Getting ready to 4 link the rear. Be pulling the bed and chopping frame. Setting wheelbase at about 115" and thinking utilizing coils vs air shocks for now per the low budget build ups and always upgrade later so be easier to dial in now.

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Just got back from Harlan KY and my biggest complaint was height (I'm about 7.5 inches of lift). I run a 36 SX on Bead locks so I need at least 5.5 but after going SOA on a 8.8 I got big in a hurry. I'm interested in a triangulated 4 link for functionality but also for the adjustability. With a 4 link I can set ride height at 5.5 and I can bob the bed and increase my departure angle. Like most I've searched but can find little to no info on a MJ 4 link, I plan to start my project this fall so if anyone else gets started earlier than that please take lots of pics and keep a tape measure and scratch pad close. You could save the rest of us a ton of time.........

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Keep in mind that there are a few triangulations.  You have triangulated uppers/straight lowers, triangulated lowers/straight uppers, and double triangulated.  The best of all is double triangulated but it's also the most complex to set up.  The first two also give you flex steer while the third doesn't.

 

For lift size and tire size, that depends on how much you want to trim.  I trimmed my fenders and bed up to the body line and can run 42's on 6" of lift with 1 1/2" of extra clearance, this is on 4" uptravel and 8" down.

 

If you're looking for setups you can steal ideas off of, go to Pirate4x4 and go into the Jeep Cherokee section.  There are many Comanches in there with bobbed beds, tubbed beds and double triangulated rear suspension setups.

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I swapped to Chevy 63s in my Comanche they flex really well better than stock 57 inch Comanche just gotta move the front hanger forward and I also just re drilled the stock shackle mount a inch forward flexes like a dream I'm also on a 8.5 inch lift sits a lower than a lifted 4 inch TG Toyota does

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So the Chevy 63 has less spring behind the centerbolt and more in front? And your saying it gave you 8.5 inches of lift? I assume your SOA? I'd be very interested if you have some pics.

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It all matters which Chevy spring you get for how much lift you will get.  I just took the stock 57's and flipped them around so the axle is offset farther back ~5", never had an issue or complaint about the flex out of the rear.  If I removed the rear bumpstop, I'm sure the leaf spring will hit the frame and she flexes almost as well as my 3-link front.  Keep in mind that huge flex isn't exactly the best out of the rear of our trucks due to there being very little weight back there.  After a certain point, more flex will hurt more than help.

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Thanks Gavin.... the only thing that would concern me would be the benifit of increasing my wheelbase.  I like the idea of less departure angle between the back of the tire and the rear shackle.  However, increasing the wheelbase lengthens my turning radius in the woods and decreases my breakover distance. I did enjoy reading your build thread.

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idk if anyone ever heard of newline fab in socal.. but that have a bolt on 4 link for rangers for desert prerunners not sure how well it would be in rock crawling but I know there built nice they also build those sweet trophy carts...

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Desert racing is more about the strength and less about the flex.  They care more for flatter links and don't care if the links hang down below the frame rails.  It definitely would be a good starting point if the price is right though.

 

Thanks Gavin.... the only thing that would concern me would be the benifit of increasing my wheelbase.  I like the idea of less departure angle between the back of the tire and the rear shackle.  However, increasing the wheelbase lengthens my turning radius in the woods and decreases my breakover distance. I did enjoy reading your build thread.

 

Glad you enjoyed it.  It was kinda a long way to get to where the Jeep is now but lack of funds (was a college student during the build) and not knowing what I was doing make for a very slow build.

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My 63 are only like a half Inch or 1 inch longer on the back of the spring to the shackle than the stock Comanche springs.. But there much further forward than than the Comanche springs as far as the hanger mount goes and no my Soa didn't give me 8.5 inch lift I did the Soa which gave me about 5.5 I added a full length of the perch block 1.5 inch tall and a 1.5 inch lift shackle in my Chevy 63 springs are half ton springs

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My race truck has a 4 link rear and it consists of about $400 of metal, trail gear hemi's, Chevrolet leaf spring bushings, and V8 ZJ front coils,... Oh and it bolts in and in the below picture I had a standard drive shaft (no SYE)

 

 

This is a photo from a few years ago, front is now 3 links and moves now. Squat and anti squat is great and it rides like a bush Cadillac!

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That's awsome..... any chance I could get a couple pics of how you set it up?  Most of this is trial and error.... the more info I can start with the less "Error" I'll end up with....

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