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2000 XJ power train in my MJ


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personally I'd be a cheap a** and take the stock manifold off and weld the crack, but if you have money burning a hole in your pocket then go for the header, if your going to buy something then make it worth your while and get a couple extra horses out of it.

 

I wondered if the 15 gallon tank was taller like the 22 gallon tank is, now I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed sometimes but what if somehow you used the fuel gauge sending unit off a xj pump assembly on the Dakota assembly, just sayin if we can completely modify an old mj to run the newer drivetrain that should be simple right?

 

 

I'd like to see the tiregate

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I haven't looked at the fuel sending unit too closely, but I do remember a few things about it when I contemplated doing exactly what you said. It's incredibly flimsy and looks like something that break into a billion pieces if you tried to remove it and swap it over. My original thought was to just swap over the "resistance" pad from the XJ assembly onto the Dakota one and I looked at how to go about doing that, but gave up when I felt like I was going to destroy it. I did some resistance measurements on the two assemblies and I don't remember what the numbers are off the top of my head, but this could all be solved by adding an appropriately sized inline resistor into the circuit....potentially...

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well, I've got to try it, at one of the local yards there is a 22 gallon tank with the pump in it already out of the truck and I think I'm gonna go pick it up, I have an extra complete xj pump plus another one that I used for parts, I will see what I can come up with. I've got to try something I can't stand anything being wrong with my truck

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geez, can't I get a break sometimes? I went to the salvage yard just to find out they are closed for some reason until monday.... Guess I'm sol until then. :fs1:

 

 

I do have another idea brewing in my head but don't know if I want to try it without another tank handy, my younger brother works at a plastics place and they have plastic welders and anything I may need, I'm thinking about taking my 22 gallon plastic tank and making it shorter in height and length by cutting sections out and welding it back together, any thoughts on that?

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that's fun changing them manifolds isn't it? Kinda of a tight squeeze. I really need to quit putting off doing the paint work and such on my truck, I was just hoping to get it running right before I do it but before I know it winter is going to be here and I'm not going to want to do any body work

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that's fun changing them manifolds isn't it? Kinda of a tight squeeze. I really need to quit putting off doing the paint work and such on my truck, I was just hoping to get it running right before I do it but before I know it winter is going to be here and I'm not going to want to do any body work

 

Wasn't that bad....got bed liner sprayed today, replaced the fan clutch and getting ready to change the alternator

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Hooked the fuel pump up to a spare battery and drained the fuel in the tank into a couple of gas containers (will come in handy for my generator in case the hurricane takes my power out). Kept draining the tank until it started to just trickle out and disconnected the pump so I didn't overheat and burn it out. With the tank damn near empty, the resistance reading on the XJ fuel pump assembly is about 440 Ohms.

 

So, knowing that, it looks like the Dakota fuel level sensor won't quite work with the XJ PCM and cluster. If my theory is correct, the Dakota fuel level sender will never drop the XJ cluster below a half tank. I'm not sure what will happen when the Dakota tank is full, but it would likely just peg the fuel needle to the right on the XJ cluster.

 

I wonder if that sort of variable can be edited in the programming with the SCT tuning software or possibly even a DRB III scanner...

 

Time to do more research...

 

BTW, this was all pretty much a moot point for me since I will be using a ZJ PCM in my 5.9L Magnum build, so there is still hope. Just need to see what the ZJ fuel pump assembly measures...hopefully it's the same as the Dakota!

 

 

I just got back from the salvage yard, I picked up another 22 gallon dakota tank, this one is from a 97 and it came with the pump assembly, I broke down and bought a new digital multimeter cause the ones i had were pretty old and I didnt trust them, measured resistance on the dodge tank and got 20 full and 220 empty, then I took a sending unit that I had laying around off of i believe a 98 cherokee and got 20 full and 216 empty. I'm no genius but I believe the dakota assembly will work without a problem

well, I'm heading back out to the garage to start dropping my tank in the mj and test out this dakota assembly, wish me luck

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ok, the wife reminded me that I had some honey dos before I started on the truck, what I got so far is the tank dropped and the adaptor harness built, I plugged it into my truck harness to test the fuel gauge. I tested it at empty, half tank, and full and the gauge in my dash read accordingly, it works perfect. The pump did not kick on when I turned my key on though so gotta do some checking there, maybe a faulty pump

 

more updates to come

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