lift kit

[dishdude]

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Allready have dana 44 in the rear. Dana 35 in the front I think. I'm just new in this style of truck. In the day had a very big CJ5 on 35". Easy. This is a whole diffrent ball game. I don't plan on doing very much hard wheeling. For now!!! Just tring to get it going. What is the deal with the crossmember?

[mjeff87]

What exactly are you talking about? tranny crossmember?

[CWLONGSHOT]

Exactly...??? What are you asking us?

 

You could have a D44 in the rear but you most likely have a HP D30 up front. There is no factory solid axle D35 set up for use as a front end.

Both Dodge and Ford have used the D35's center section in their front IFS set-ups.

 

What do you want to know about the cross member???

[dishdude]

I'm very new with this forum stuff as well as my jeep. Please forgive me for not including everything. Is their something I need to do to the tranny cross member if I am going to lift my truck to fit 35" tires? I indeed have a dana 44 in the rear and a dana30 in the front.

[87manche]

Is your comanche long or short bed?

Driveline angles are the biggest issue with a lift that size. I'm also not sure that the D30 upfront will cope with 35's very well without some upgrades. Hopefully pete jumps in here, I think he's got 35s.

[DirtyComanche]

I'm also not sure that the D30 upfront will cope with 35's very well without some upgrades. Hopefully pete jumps in here, I think he's got 35s.

 

 

At the very least you'll need shafts with the 297X Ujoints. Even then, you're on borrowed time IMHO. You can get a 'super 30' kit or just get custom chromoly shafts, but then you've actually made your weak point the R&P. And DON'T DRAG/PULL ANYTHING IN REVERSE! The R&P is even weaker in reverse on the HPD30.

 

 

Oh, and truss the SOB, and reinforce the link towers. Otherwise you're gonna have some fun.

 

 

However, it will work, and hold up to non-harcore wheeling. I'd just plan to carry lots of spare shafts.

[pingpong]

TRuss it, thorugh some moly shafts in it, lock it up, and then proceeded to put it throught torture testing. Thatrs at least what i am doing. IT will hold up to 35's the way I just listed it. Or at least mine has :twisted:

[mr4x4]

youll be fine with the dana 30 for a while but after a while you will want

to put up grades in

all though i know a lot of people that grear it lock it and hardly break.

 

 

 

 

put some 456 gears in it leave it open you should be fine

 

with some fender trimming and an 8in. lift you can get 35s no prob.

don't worry about the tranny cross member put a sye kit in it

that will cure your drive line angles and drive line vibration.

after you lift and fix your steering for death wobble,gears,lockers,sye kit

tires and so forth then start with axle up grades just takes money

[DirtyComanche]

On the topic of the whole SYE/Driveline thing. BrettM (doesn't bother to post here) has somewhere around 7" of lift, and no SYE. Well, it was like that. Yes, he drove it on the street. But, my point is, if you set your pinon angle correctly you can make it work without spending the coin on an SYE. The driveshaft angle I believe will be shallower than a stock wrangler driveshaft, with 5-6" of lift. Although, if you break tcase output shafts; then it's time to get one or a new/better tcase.

 

 

I just figured I'd throw it out there, might save some coin. If it doesn't work then you get the SYE and the double cardon driveshaft. Worst that'll happen is it'll vibe like a mother and break at an inconvenient time. I, having listened to cherokee boys the whole time, got a SYE/Tom Woods before even trying.

[pingpong]

I can speak from experience when it comes to the SYE. if you plan on running your rig on the trail spend the coin on the SYE and driveshaft. On my street MJ I am not running a sye, and I am SOA in the rear with Rusty's 4.5 coils in the front. This Jeep deosnt see the trails, as it has a few issues.

 

 

Patrick

[87manche]

is that a SWB or a LWB truck that needs the SYE? I was going to see if I couldn't get away with it since I'm LWB.

[mr4x4]

spending the coin on a sye is worth it for what happens if you break something and have to drive out in front wheel drive

but if you want to save some cash for right now you can get away without

check uot rubicon express they have a longer slip yoke for somthing like 80$

 

tom woods told me 800$ for my sye and front and rear drive shafts

for just the sye and rear drive shaft was somthing like 5 or 600$

[pingpong]

Both of my rigs are LWB :D

 

My rear driveshaft was 350, and my SYE was 200. That was alos a year and a half ago. so 800 for both driveshafts, and a sye sounds about right. Personally I think the stock front driveshaft works great. but that is just my opinion.

 

 

 

Patrick

[mr4x4]

i need the front drive shaft

the stock one is fine but my front cv joint broke 7 to 8 months ago

witch put a hole in my tranny causing me to find a new one in.

also a new transfer shift link found a nice one from novak adapters.

and tore some lines off my frame rail.

but thats why i need the front drive shaft.

and to think I was only doing 10 mph.

 

pics of some of the damage.

 

http://community.webshots.com/user/comanchejeep

[87manche]

damn, that's a lot of damage from something that small. Hit the aluminum just right to punch a hole eh.

[pingpong]

The local pic aprt sells front d/s for 35 bucks, so I have a spare. They are easy and relatively cheap to rebuild yourself. Unless you need a long travel front, I wouldn't spend the coin on one. Tom woods also offers a trail hazard warranty, that I recommend getting. My rear has a sizeable dent, and has to be fixed, and I am looking at a nice chunk of coin to get it done right.

 

 

 

Patrick

[mr4x4]

I'm looking at tom woods for they are a little stronger than stock

i figure every time i break up grade or buy new

 

besides if i rebuild the motor ill have a rust free totaly rebuilt comanche