88pioneer Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 i started losing break pedal pressure last night, and checked it out this morning. Bled the entire system, and found the PS wheel cylinder was leaking in the drum, and most of the lower internals had broken or come apart. I decided to just cap the line and bypass the brake, as they don't work very good anyway. Capped it at the T and bled the other 3 brakes. Buttoned everything back up and I get so little pressure from the pedal, i have to push it to the floor to stop. I bled them again and still nothing. :help: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 I am going to advise you to fix the wheel cylinder instead of capping off the line, then tell you what you should do to fix it. Don't eff with your breaks. They left the factory with 4 of them for a reason. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted May 30, 2010 Author Share Posted May 30, 2010 Yea i know not one of my best ideas :oops: , i was just trying to get it running again. I've never really battled with drums before, but i can see whats there and whats not so hopefully tomorrow i can get them back together, and figure out how to change the cylinder, heading to work, and out of time for today :wall: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 Just two bolts from the backside to get the cylinders out. With brakes, always do to one side what you do to the other side. So if you do a wheel cylinder to one, do the other. Drums look complicated with all the parts and whatnot, but you can usually get them done with a pair of pliers and a good screwdriver. Even easier if you have the plier-like drum brake tool you can pick up at most parts stores. But, as I always tell anyone tackling drums for the first time, don't worry! Leave the other side together, and you have one to look at! Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 30, 2010 Share Posted May 30, 2010 If you capped one side of the rear brakes, there may be air in there and you have no way to bleed that side. Like the man said ... fix it, don't play with it. And by the way -- if your truck still has the rear height sensing valve, be sure you follow the correct procedure for bleeding, or you may never have brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted May 30, 2010 Author Share Posted May 30, 2010 yea all those springs definitley scare me :yes: , but i'll tear into them tomorrow, and i'm pretty sure i don't have the height valve anymore. I remember seeing other posts with pictures of it, but don't remember what it looks like exactly. I'll give the search a shot on that. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Here's a great DIY on Jeep Drum brakes :yes: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... ervice.htm Just follow the steps, and you'll be stopping on a half-dollar in no time :D You'll be looking at the 10" drums for the MJ. Just one note, if you really into doing it, change out the hard lines, and the soft line from the frame to the axle at the same time, it will assure you years of trouble free service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 A little tip, When you put them back together, put the little spring that connects the two pads together at the bottom on first before you put the hold down pins in. I tried putting that spring on after I was done with everything else and it wasnt fun. :mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 Appreciate all the help, i guess i'll see what tomorrow brings :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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