Replacing wheel bearings...how tough is it?

[beepbeepmyredjeep]

So, I was informed by the tire shop that I need to have my front wheel bearings replaced. I don't doubt it, as the wheels do have some play in them.

 

Of course, the amount they wanted was ridiculous. We're talking ~$500 for parts and labor. I know bearings aren't very expensive from what I've read online. So my question is, how difficult are they to replace?

 

I've usually only worked on vehicles in the engine compartment, so working on the wheels and axles is new to me.

 

Any pointers are of course welcome!

[Oizarod115]

500 sounds like a deal to me, from what i recall the unit bearings for a 4wd truck run upwards of 100$ a piece, and getting them separated from the knuckle is a BIATCH. i've had both of mine off years ago, ahd to take one back off a couple weeks ago and it was a fight all over again.

 

if you happen to have the 2wd model that has standard bearing in rotor design thats easy breezy, and i'm not saying you can't do your own hubs just saying it does suck, expect to spend 2 hours a side at least if theyre stuck good.

 

i just tried to lookup the bearings for MY truck on autozone's website jsut to see if i remembered correctly and they were listing the incorrect parts for my truck (don't know about yours) for 7.99$ this is DEFINITELY not the case for me.

[beepbeepmyredjeep]

if you happen to have the 2wd model that has standard bearing in rotor design thats easy breezy, and i'm not saying you can't do your own hubs just saying it does suck, expect to spend 2 hours a side at least if theyre stuck good.

 

I do have the 2wd model. :cheers:

[Oizarod115]

if you happen to have the 2wd model that has standard bearing in rotor design thats easy breezy, and i'm not saying you can't do your own hubs just saying it does suck, expect to spend 2 hours a side at least if theyre stuck good.

 

I do have the 2wd model. :cheers:

not reaal sure because ive never had one myself but if it's like a ford/chevy anything like that, its REALLY easy, just messy. you'll want to invest in a hub packer and some good quality grease. (GLOVES)

 

a hammer and screwdriver will gently take the center cap off, then the cotter pin, nut retainer, and the nut should be gently tight (use adj. wrench) pull the rotor off, the outer bearing will fall right out, put the rotor back on, spin the nut on a few threads, and yank the rotor off/down whacking the inner bearing on the nut, and pulling it and the seal out of the rotor. remove the nut, the rotor, the bearing and seal, use hammer and punch to remove the old races, install the new races, bearings and seals (make sure you pack the bearings with grease with a packer, don't just wipe them down) re-assemble and don't tighten the nut to much or you'll stress out the bearings, just a little bit and spin the rotor to see how it feels.

 

you may need to get a set of bearing race drivers? ive never done it without them don't know if there is a way to install them otherwise?

[dasbulliwagen]

Some 2wd models have the spindle and seperate bearings, and some have the 4wd unit bearing with a fake spindle put in place to hold everything together.... I'm not sure what years they changed that but by the price, it sounds like you have the unit bearing type, because the parts for the spindle type don't cost that much and are fairly easy to change. The unit bearing type arent horrible if you don't live in the rust belt, but still they can be a pain sometimes and the unit bearings are expensive....and in case you don't know what unit bearings are, they are a sealed pre-assembled bearing set that just bolts in place on the steering knuckle, held on by three bolts, which I think take an inverted torx socket that would need to be special bought if you are doing this yourself. If you put your vehicle model and year and drivetrain info in your signature it would be much easier for us to give you correct info too, just saying. Good luck, let us know how it turns out!

[beepbeepmyredjeep]

Damn. I'll just stick to working on the engine compartment. :rotf:

[kro10000]

The three bolts holding the hub on arent inverted torx, they are a 12 point 13 millimeter head. Honestly the bearings arent difficult at all, jusr need some persuasion with a BFH to knock em out

[lostissues]

if it is like mine (just did one 2 days ago) it should be easy

take off wheel

take out 2 caliper slide bolts and hang caliper out of the way

remove brake pads and rotor

take off 3 12 point (13mm as per kor10000)

I just hammered it back and forth till I got it out and pulled the whole Axel shaft out (good thing to cause my U joint was toast!)

pull cotter pin and locking cap off Axel nut and then remove Axel nut

and then reverse the procedure using the 3 12 point bolts to pull the bearing assembly in snug.

[dasbulliwagen]

You have listed now that its an 87 2wd, it has spindles and regular bearings... theres no reason that job should cost $500, I would get a second opinion if I were you, sounds like a rip off to me. I did this job myself not that long ago, parts alone should be less than $100 total, and even at $100 an hour shop lablor rate which is a high guess for rounding purposes, it shouldnt be any more than 1 hour per side. Go talk to someone else if you can't do this job, at least price out the bearings and seals yourself at a local parts store. Its not a hard job, just messy. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

[xflowdaboi352]

You can buy the whole hub assembly for $69.00 from auto zone ;)

[kro10000]

Oh yeah and make sure youve got a 7mm allen key or socket to take the caliper pins out... I had to get a new one as mine disapeared...

[james750]

I can do them in about 1/2 hour per side. The seized up hub comes out of the knuckle very easy if you take an air hammer to the inner side of the unit bearing to rotate it and break it free.

[dasbulliwagen]

HIS TRUCK DOESNT HAVE UNIT BEARINGS!

 

:smart:

[jpnjim]

HIS TRUCK DOESNT HAVE UNIT BEARINGS!

 

:smart:

 

 

First thing I'd check with 'loose' conventional bearings is if the center nut itself is on tight enough. :yes:

 

I've seen people repack them, but not know how to properly tighten them back up again.

[HOrnbrod]

This is true. :D The correct method for the 2WDs is to tighten the bearing nut to 17-25 ft. lbs while rotating the wheel to seat the new bearings/races. Then loosen the nut 1/2 turn and retighten to 19 in-lbs of torque.

[ParadiseMJ]

...Some 2wd models have the spindle and seperate bearings, and some have the 4wd unit bearing...

 

It's likely that your mechanic quoted you the price for the 4x4 unit bearing, plus parts mark-up, plus labor. Some mechanics see Jeeps and think unit bearing job. That would be a reasonable quote (which is why I do my own work, I'm cheap). Timken unit bearings are ~~$95 each. Unless you've done it before, it can be a B of a job, especially if your knuckles are rusty etc. About a 3 hour job total for a good shop. A whole weekend for me!!!!

 

If you have 4x2, your bearings are as easy as pulling the hub bolt, wobbling out the bearing, same at the back. Either pack with grease or replace (then pack). At worst you can put in new races and bearings for about $80 total.

 

You may want to clarify with the shop that it's a 2 wheel drive...or find another shop. Then again that's also a decent quote for a full front brake job and replacing and packing the tapered roller bearings and races.