comancheon33 Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 Here is what I am up to. My MJ is going to be in the garage for awhile. It snowed here so there goes wheeling for awhile. I just sold a 92 XJ that I put a motor in and the money is for my MJ only. I ordered up a pair RE 7.5 coils, Rockkrawler track bar and bracket, and Rustys shocks. I am still working the details out with TNT for my longarms. All of this with a few other odds and ends for my Eliminator should have the front taken care of. My question is in the rear. I have already done a spring over in the back. I will still need a couple inches out of the rear. Custom spring packs would be nice but very spendy. I am thinking of a long add a leaf. Do you guys have any better ideas? How about recommendations of a builder for the add a leaf? This is my only real question I have till it is all together. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 I made a bastardized spring pack out of two MJ packs. I cut the eyes off the main leaf of the second pack, added to the origonal packs, and stuck the mess back together. It definatly arched them more, how much I don't know. I think the maximum you could get out of this would be about 3". The AALs that go on top of the packs are just ugh. I'd avoid that at all costs. S10s/Dakotas, etc have similar rear springs, which could be a decent donor. You could also run a longer shackle, such as one ment to drop a fullsized chevy. How about some links for the rear? Not into crossing that bridge yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheon33 Posted November 17, 2005 Author Share Posted November 17, 2005 Only problem I really have is right side spring is a little weaker than the left. I need to support it first. Yeah shackles have crossed my mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bounty Hunter Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 I'd do a full length AAL, just one. Get it from another MJ or a donor with the same or more arch as unloaded MJ leaves. There are a lot of 2.5" wide donor leaf packs out there. You can cut eyes off the main leaf if you want the longest possible AAL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 The 7.5 coils will probrably be closer to 9" when first installed. So you are goping to have to get creative when you put this lift together. Chevy drop shackles from a full size should net you close to 2". Then there is a bastard pack which might gain you another 2" depending on how bad your leaf pack is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheon33 Posted November 17, 2005 Author Share Posted November 17, 2005 I hoping the ARB will keep it closer to 7.5 than that. I am sure a lift shackle will be involved and an add a leaf or replacement springs will be involved. I am thinking of replacing the rears with new ones from JC Whitney. That would fix my sag on the right and I could use the old ones for add a leafs. Will have to see how it sits from there. I like all the help and responses I am getting so far. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 18, 2005 Share Posted November 18, 2005 I have a Rigid Co bumper, and a winch on the front of mine, and I still got 7" of lift out of 6.5" coils, and that is after a yr of serious abuse. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scorpion Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 I am thinking of a long add a leaf. Do you guys have any better ideas? How about recommendations of a builder for the add a leaf? This is my only real question I have till it is all together. Thanks in advance. Might want to consider U-Bolt Eliminators. A new product from T&T Customs that addes up to 1 1/2" of lift and removes the need to use u-bolts anymore effectively moving everything out from below the centerline of your axle tubes. The upper plate has a built in bump-stop pad and they also have an integrated 1" or 1 1/2" spring pin offset built into them if you need it. Prevents the need for huge arch or custom built packs if you only need an inch to level out or so. http://www.tntcustoms.com/webV3/ubolteliminators.asp Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheon33 Posted November 21, 2005 Author Share Posted November 21, 2005 The other day when I called you guys at TNT Drew recommended them also. I am just gonna have to lift the front and make the rear match. I am considering the U bolt eliminators as an option for sure. How long till you guys have some pics of your MJ sliders? Thanks for all the help so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 To me they just look like some spring perches, with plate added to make spring plates, and some beefy grade 8 bolts. Doesn't seem like it would be to hard to make if you have a decently equipped garage. These are just my observations. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheon33 Posted November 21, 2005 Author Share Posted November 21, 2005 If you look closely they are a little complicated than that. Plus they make your wheelbase adjustable. I think it is an awesome idea myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 I disagree, but since you think it is more complicated, please explain it to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 I disagree, but since you think it is more complicated, please explain it to me. I wouldn't mind knowing too. I saw those before, and umm, the look like spring plates and bolts. And I don't see how they'd be reducing axle wrap or anything else... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HatchetMJ Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 I disagree, but since you think it is more complicated, please explain it to me. I wouldn't mind knowing too. I saw those before, and umm, the look like spring plates and bolts. And I don't see how they'd be reducing axle wrap or anything else... X3...I'm with you guys...thats what it looks like to me too......however I'd be interested in a better explaination...and if it does what is says....that would be cool....either way...if I like it I'll make my own Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheon33 Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 First of all they are way wider and built of better material. I have rolled the perches on 3 different rear axles. Not just stock perches either. For someone wanting 1-1.5 of wheelbase gain even better. As far as wheelhop, I have wheeled two comanches and a cherokee. All of them with 4.0s and have never had a wheelhop problem. Both MJs were SOA. It is a basic design, if it was such a easy thing why haven't any of you thought of and/or built them. Not to mention a good way to get .75 or 1.5 inches of lift without a block after add a leafs or whatever your combo is. Plus if it comes from TNT Customs it has to have a reason and be usable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 As for making your own spring perches, try using some rectangle tubing 2x4x1/4 and make them as long as you want to prevent spring wrap. Mine are made out of it, and measure 8" long. If you want a wider one use wider tubing. As for extending your wheelbase. MY mj is 121, thanks to my front LA's being extended out some :twisted: I think you need to take a closer look at most of the things on my rig, I have made a good deal of parts on my rig, If you want to pay some one else to make yor spring plates be my guess, but I take more pride in building my parts, and being different. Currently I am working on a new tranny x-member, and belly up skid cause I don't want to pay 2 or 300 bucks for 50 worth of metal. AS for why TNT customs would sell something like that, cause their is a market for it. Not everyone has the same amount of equipment in their garage, or the skills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheon33 Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 I am not saying they can't be homemade. If you want to or can go for it. I don't have a lot stuff in my home shop. I slowly building up my home tool collection. Not all of us are like you and know it all. Get off me if you know so much go tell it to someone that wants to listen to you. If can do it great, since I don't have nice welder or drill press in my garage it might be just a little tough. Why don't you take that in to consideration before you flame me for having a different opinion than yours. If you want be like that go on pirate they like it that way there. Sorry if it pisses you off ,but I am not like you and at this point proud of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 At this point I actually think less of TnT customs for having seen those. Maybe I still just don't get it? Oh yeah, I had mad wheelhop with this thing stock. Couldn't tell you as far as with it being SOA, but I doubt it will have improved. Oh, and with mearly an angle grinder and a cordless (or even corded for those in the dark ages) drill you could make those. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheon33 Posted November 22, 2005 Author Share Posted November 22, 2005 I agree it could be done with the tools you listed. I just got flamed for saying I liked the idea. I guess having a different way of looking at things is wrong for some around here. By saying it was a good idea and stating I had no wheel hop issues I must be out bounds for being different than some. Just because a company comes out with a product you can not see using doesn't mean they make junk. I have ordered their longarm kit and dealt with guys on the phone. All I have to say is guys are great to deal with. I am not about to start any crap but that is what I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 If you look closely they are a little complicated than that. Plus they make your wheelbase adjustable. I think it is an awesome idea myself. You didnt get flamed... I just wanted to know what made them better then what I described. TNT makes some fine products, but when I was shopping for LA's, that couldnt tell me what the differences were in the XJ and MJ. They were more then willing to work with me on my install and all, but I couldn't see shelling out that kinda coin for something that no one knows will work. Now that a major magazine has installed their stuff, they are on the map. I am sure they got orders out the ying now. (I am not bashing TNT). I went with the low end Terra flex kit, and for the most part I am pleased. Now that I have a setup I half way like, I am all ready planning on ways to fix the problems, and to make asimilar setup for my strret rig. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scorpion Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 You guys got it nailed...the UBE's aren't what we consider a complex part by any means but ours are CNC cut/drilled to help take some of the guess work out. If you have the tools, by all means, build them! It's a part we've been making for years for various projects and after needing (like previously mentioned) a little more lift while wanting to ditch those u-bolts, it was a no-brainer. Our UBE's do have a middle rib which prevents the collapse of the UBE when abused...so it's a little different than a piece of boxed tube - but you could do that too. We've been working on complete solutions for the MJ (bumpers, stiffeners, sliders, etc) and the UBE's were a part of the plan from the get-go. The UBE's are not application specific and for those of you looking to get some new spring pirches (and are looking to buy instead of build), we believe they're a viable option and worth consideration. The benefits of the UBE's are as follows: 1) You ditch those u-bolts so you have nothing below axle centerline 2) You can gain a small but safe amount of lift to compliment rear springs with less arch - less arch results in better flex 3) The upper plate has accomodations for the stock located bump-stop 4) You can stretch/shrink your wheelbase 1 or 1.5" 5) They will integrate with our soon to be released rear differential truss As for the Y-Link issues with the MJ's, there was a time where we were cautiously concerned about the transmission mounts. We had learned the hard way that the XJ's weren't all the same and we didn't want to ship a part that wasn't right so we did ask a few questions. If we had access to a larger number of MJ's at the time we might have made an educated guess but we don't like operating like that because we know how frustrating it is to get something that doesn't fit. At this time we do now offer an MJ only belly pan that ships will all accomodations for an MJ. There are a few differences from the XJ kit and since they've been ironed out, we're confident in the application. If you have questions, feel free to give us a call at the shop. :) Matt ----------- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheon33 Posted November 30, 2005 Author Share Posted November 30, 2005 Thanks for helping me out there. I am looking forward to getting my TNT long arm on. How is you guys steering coming? I am gonna be looking for something real soon and would like to keep the business with you guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Well, if they come out with a 3" lift kit with leaf springs I'm all over that. What is TNT's future plans regarding our MJs? I'd like to see more rocker guard options available and the like. LWB trucks and rocks just don't seem to be a good idea unless the whole thing is armored. I'm planning on doing engine, belly pan, gas tank and rockers before I even think about taking it out on the trail. I gotta find a spare rear DS too, 120" wheelbase is just begging for me to bash that on something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 yeah, and any time you ned to test something on a mostly stock LWB 4x4, you call me. I'll be happy too :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Believe it or not, I have barely ever scrapped my rear driveshaft. The front as been scrapped af ew times, and I think I scraped the rear once. The problem is the center of the vehicle. The crossmember and t-case skid catch hell on my rig. Thats one of the reason why I am building a belly-up skid, But I would like to see what TnT has to offer for one. TnT's Long arm kit is rightoues, There were just to many difference in between the Mj and the XJ for me to drop that kinda coin, not knowing if it was going to work or not, and not knowing how much more fab work I was going to have to do to make it work. Some of the differences ar the MJ has 2 cab mounts, the frame widens after the X-member, and depens. Plus the extra LCA mounts. Those are just the major differences I have found up front on my rig, but I am sure there are more. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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