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Cluster swap ?


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As stated above, nothing earlier than '86... I got a replacement for my '87 at my local u-pull-it, It came from a '89 Cherokee...

 

Pics:

jeepcomanchecluster004.jpg

 

jeepcomanchecluster005.jpg

 

The back of your cluster, SHOULD look like that... I'm not sure though, someone might chime in and correct me...

 

Hope this helps.

8)

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  • 2 weeks later...
I did the cluster swap, everything bolted right in and the gauges worked immeadiately all except for the oil pressure one, any ideas why? All it does is immeadiately pin itself out.

 

My gauge does that also but is unplugged because I don't have the sender yet.

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Did the cluster swap but now the tach is a little off, is there a way to adjust it?

THANKS

 

Also my MJ is a 4.0 and the XJ the cluster came from was a 4.0. So I thought the tach would work correctly.

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I did the cluster swap, everything bolted right in and the gauges worked immeadiately all except for the oil pressure one, any ideas why? All it does is immeadiately pin itself out.

 

oil pressure sensor

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Did the cluster swap but now the tach is a little off, is there a way to adjust it?

THANKS

 

Also my MJ is a 4.0 and the XJ the cluster came from was a 4.0. So I thought the tach would work correctly.

It should. How do you know it's off? How much is it off?

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Did the cluster swap but now the tach is a little off, is there a way to adjust it?

THANKS

 

Also my MJ is a 4.0 and the XJ the cluster came from was a 4.0. So I thought the tach would work correctly.

It should. How do you know it's off? How much is it off?

 

At idle it reads below zero.

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Did the cluster swap but now the tach is a little off, is there a way to adjust it?

THANKS

 

Also my MJ is a 4.0 and the XJ the cluster came from was a 4.0. So I thought the tach would work correctly.

It should. How do you know it's off? How much is it off?

 

At idle it reads below zero.

That doesn't sound like "off" ... that sounds like "broken." Even if it came from a 4-cylinder donor, it would show a reading at idle, but instead or 650 (or so) RPM it would be indicating 975 (or so) RPM.

You could try taking the tach out of the cluster and adjusting the potentiometer on the back, but I'm not optimistic that it'll have enough adjustment to fix this. If you can get it to read accurately at idle, be sure to cross-check at around 2000 RPM, because it may be off there, as well.

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Is it possible that the needle was pulled off and put back on?

Are they keyed or splined ?

 

I don't think it's feasible to pull the needle off without breaking. At least, I've never been able to pop one off.

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Ok guys I fix my tach, I took the clear face off and manually moved the needle to max rpm and it would not max out so with a little force I moved it so it would max out and now the needle starts out at zero rpm's. Now when I start the engine it works like it should. Also put the oil sender in and the oil guage works too.

 

Thanks for everyone's help.

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Went to idiot-zone to get a temp sender for the swap, the computer genius said there was not one for that vehical (90XJ) so after telling him that the computer was wrong and he insisted that it did not use one, so I asked him how a gauge works without one --- and still nothing.

 

So does anyone have a part # for the temp sender, who knows maybe I am the idiot.

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The Auto Zone link makes you reselect the vehicle, but does take you to the part. Unfortuntately, the photo shows a sender with a pigtail, so it may well be the wrong part.

 

NAPA Online has it. You have to search for "Temperature Sender," not "sensor." The one for the gauge is Echlin #ECH TS6053

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