Another Rim Question

[UberFungi]

Alright guys riddle me this,

 

I'm sitting here scratching my newbie head. Last night I was brought a set of rims to try on my manche, the were ranger rims and they were 15x8s we put it on the axle and 1st problem is the wheel studs are'nt even close to being long enough, 2 it looks like its gonna rub the control arm when I turn, I'm gonna be lifting 3 inches soon and plan on running 30-950 or 31-1050s what would be my best bet to accomplish this. New wheel studs and spacers or just try a different rim. I'm quite fond of my stock steelies but I think i'm gonna run into problems running 31s. Also if I need new wheel studs who what and where and of corse how much should I expect this to run. I also seem to remeber a wheel tire chart but I can't find it maybe on the old site? Thanks All

Shane

[comanchedude]

Couple things come to mind

If these are alloy wheels you may need the type of lug nuts that go down into the wheel?

If these are steel wheels then my guess is they are not fitting over the center of the hub and that could be the problem?

You would not need longer wheel studs!

You should measure the back space of the wheel and see if it is less than the stock wheel if it is not less then just use your stock wheel until you’re ready to buy new wheels that have a 4inch back space

[wombat]

I doin't know about your wheel issue, but I do know, that they should not rub anything, try a rim with 3 or 4 inches backspacing...

[Eagle]

Ranger rims have different backspacing than Jeep rims, and a smaller center hole. Not a good choice for a Cherokee or a Comanche.

 

You can run 31x10.50s on stock rims. I did it on my MJ for about 4 years. The tires will rub slightly on the lower control arms when the steering wheel is cranked all the way to either side. You can either shim the steering stop bolts, or just live with it. I lived with it.

[87manche]

Sorry to threadjack, but it's related.

Eagle, how do you shim the stop bolts? I've got 31x10.5s on the stock "turbine" style rims. I've sen this mention a half a dozen times and everytime I ask nobody coughs up the proper way to do this.

[Eagle]

Crawl under the front of your MJ and look at either front wheel from in front of the axle. Going into the back side of the steering knuckle you'll see what appears to be a bolt that isn't screwed in all the way, with a lock nut on it where it enters the knuckle. That's the stop -- if you visualize how it moves as you turn the steering, you'll quickly see what it contacts to prevent turning too far.

 

The lock nut is tack welded to the bolt shank, so you can't just back it out and re-tighten the lock nut. So you remove it completely and put one or two flat washers under it, then tighten it down again.

 

Living in Connecticut where they use pure salt on the roads in winter, mine are rusty and I admit to being afraid I'll snap one off trying to get it out. I was running 31x10.50s and I found that after a short time I automatically stopped turning just before they rubbed. I ran A/Ts, though -- if I were running big, knobby mud tires that could REALLY catch on the control arm I would have made the effort to shim the stops.

[87manche]

well, I'm in OH, and they use pure salt too. I'll look under there. If it's something that I can get loose with PB Blaster then I'll do it. I'm running AT's too, but I will get some big lugged MTs at some point, so I'd like to adjust them. I occasionally rub, usually in the driveway or a parking lot.