Geonovast Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 I've talked to a few people already, but I figured a few more opinions can't hurt, and some of you might know some magic trick for this. The AW-4 in the XJ is really, really acting up. Since I bought the truck, the only problems I had with the trans, was it didn't always go into gear right away when you'd put it in Drive or Reverse. But a few days ago, it started acting really strange. The original problem got worse, and when ever I'm in reverse and giving it gas, I get a loud squaking sound. It sounds like a dying power steering pump(which mine does whine), but it only does it in reverse. It sounds like it's coming from the bellhousing area. I'm also getting a bad vibration in 2nd and 4th in certain RPMs... and I just noticed tonight that 3rd is starting to do it a bit too. Enough that I can feel it in the steering wheel. This transmission only has to last me long enough for us to get a new XJ so I can toss an AX-15 in. I've thought of a fluid change, but I don't know whether it would make it worse, or better. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 I'd pull the pan at least to eyeball for metal shavings. If okay, do the fluid/filter change - can't hurt in the condition it's in. But the symptoms really sound like a shot torque converter mate. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 Aren't there dipstick breakage issues with removing the pan? The only auto trans pan I've ever pulled was a TF727 in my J10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 I am assuming you checked the fluid level? I don't think a fluid change can make it any worse than it already is. But you'd have to take it to a shop where they can tap into the cooling lines and replace ALL of it. Dropping the pan will only get about half the fluid. There's more in the valve body and torque converter that won't drain that way. Might be time to get a junk yard replacement, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Aren't there dipstick breakage issues with removing the pan? The only auto trans pan I've ever pulled was a TF727 in my J10. It's possible, but if you douche down the dipstick joint up real good beforehand w. PB Blaster, it will usually come apart by twisting back and forth carefully efore trying to separate it. I haven't broken one yet. :eek: Just replace the o-ring on reassembly. As mvusse suggests, you can not change all the fluid as there is no drain plug on the converter, stupid engineering, so you could bring it a tranny shop w. a suck and blow machine. But I'd like to see what's in the bottom of the pan first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 What about just pulling the plug and taking a look there? I am really looking forward to tearing this thing apart when I can. I've never had an auto apart before, and I think this one will be most informative. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 The drain plug sets about 3/8" above the floor of the pan, so you won't get much info by peering in. Stick a telescoping magnet in the hole and probe around; it will pick up any loose ferrous material that's in there. Might give you a clue if you have to go deeper. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 Alright, sounds like a plan. I'll try that first. I just really don't want to drop the pan if I don't have to. :doh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 Get a bottle of Lucas trans additive and see if it helps, might give you a little more time, but sounds like the trans pump might be going bad, it is in the bellhousing front trans area. Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 I added about 1/2 of a bottle of the Lucas stuff a few months ago with the motor swap. Didn't seem to help anything :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asm4mcc Posted January 30, 2010 Share Posted January 30, 2010 i have an aw-4 i cn sell you that runs strong no problems ill be taking it out out my jeep in a week or two to swap in a 5 speed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 I appreciate the offer, but if this transmission comes out before scheduled.. I'm not bothering with another auto. If it's gonna be down for a trans swap, an AX-15 is just gonna be going in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 30, 2010 Author Share Posted January 30, 2010 Well, we went out again today and I checked the fluid... it was very low. I dumped the 2 quarts I had in, hopefully that'll do enough until I can get some more tomorrow. Now I gotta start looking for a leak... damn thing leaks so much oil I never would have noticed a trans leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 It would appear that the two lower bellhousing to motor bolts decided to jump ship. I could verify the passenger top one was still there... dunno about the driver's. After a call frenzy trying to find out the bolt size/pitch, I limped it to O'reilly's, we figured out size and pitch... but they didn't have any long enough. I limped it to the hardware store down the road, and $5 later I had two new bolts. Thankfully everything was still lined up on their dowels and the bolts went right in. Vibration is gone, but it's still making a noise from that area. Hopefully when the truck cools down and I go out and can tighten everything back down, it'll go away. I'm hoping there's no damage to the TC or any seals.. but I'm expecting it too. At least this way, hopefully, the darn thing will last as long as I need it to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 It would appear that the two lower bellhousing to motor bolts decided to jump ship. I could verify the passenger top one was still there... dunno about the driver's. After a call frenzy trying to find out the bolt size/pitch, I limped it to O'reilly's, we figured out size and pitch... but they didn't have any long enough. I limped it to the hardware store down the road, and $5 later I had two new bolts. Thankfully everything was still lined up on their dowels and the bolts went right in. Vibration is gone, but it's still making a noise from that area. Hopefully when the truck cools down and I go out and can tighten everything back down, it'll go away. I'm hoping there's no damage to the TC or any seals.. but I'm expecting it too. At least this way, hopefully, the darn thing will last as long as I need it to. the most likely damage is that the flexplate is cracked. if it is, you cover shipping and I'll get a proper renix one down to you...though I do think you have one from the motor you got from zach Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 31, 2010 Author Share Posted January 31, 2010 The one from Zach is the one in the truck, the original is still attached to the other motor in my carport. Tomorrow I'll pop the inspection cover off and see if I can find any cracks. I wanted to check the converter bolts too, anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted January 31, 2010 Share Posted January 31, 2010 The one from Zach is the one in the truck, the original is still attached to the other motor in my carport. Tomorrow I'll pop the inspection cover off and see if I can find any cracks. I wanted to check the converter bolts too, anyway. ok, then you still have the one that came out of it. the flexplates crack when the bellhousing moves, they crack 360 degrees around the crankshaft where it bolts down, so the way to figure out if it's cracked is to remove the inspection cover, start it, and have someone tap the gas...you'll see if it' moves seperate from the crank at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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