underdog Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 I have an 87 MJ 4.0l 5spd. have been slowly putting it together and trying to chase down a running issue. Its not like any problem I have found when researching. Here is what it does. It starts and idles great 700rpm. No hesitation when accelerating. As it comes down in RPM is starts to stumble and backfire through the TB. Basically its leaning way out. Here is what I have done. -Checked and confirm TPS working properly. -IAC working properly -Fuel Pressure 31lbs at idle 39 on acceleration -cleaned and greased every terminal under the hood -EGR removed and blocked off -vacuum leak test -cleaned every ground -spark plugs wires and cap rotor all new -distributor checked and re checked -Everything above checked and rechecked and rechecked Any Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 How old is the oxygen sensor? And are you sure the O2 sensor has a good connection? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyindiane Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 MAP sensor maybe... Maybe these linke will help http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... manual.pdf :hmm: -Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underdog Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 O2 Sensor looks new. Tested fine when on my scanner and the connection was cleaned. Map sensor was swapped with a new one we have on the shelf. I have read thru both the links you have there. Lots of good info but nothing that has helped. I kinda feel like I am missing something stupid obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underdog Posted January 8, 2010 Author Share Posted January 8, 2010 Here are a couple of photos of the MJ in question Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyindiane Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Backfiring usually relate to timing. I'll let the others chime in. -Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted January 8, 2010 Share Posted January 8, 2010 Timing and, or a rich mixture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puritan21 Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Check your intake air temp sensor. Nice Comanche and post some pics of that J-truck!!! I want one of those bad :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 You may want to look at your catalytic converter. Listen for a rattle, see if glows at night. New cat ~$125-$175 installed Backfiring can definitely relate to timing, but you haven't mentioned the cat being clogged, or falling apart. Exhaust back pressure can cause backfiring too, and would flatten the hell out of performance. So, just an idea that I hadn't seen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Timing and, or a rich mixture. Rich would backfire through the exhaust. Lean can backfire through the intake. Timing (distributor and/or cam timing) could be an issue. Also check for vacuum leaks. If you have a leak, the engine pulls the highest vacuum when decelerating, so a leak would have the most effect then and could be creating a lean mixture that the O2 sensor can't adapt for quick enough (or "enough," period). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 If it is an issue with the timing, I would put my money on a loose chain. If it had skipped a tooth, it wouldn't rev that well. If the chain is loose, it could be pulling just fine when accelerating, then the momentum of the cam changes it's position when you let off the throttle... throwing off the valves, injectors and spark. Pull the cap off, and turn the motor back and forth with a ratchet to see if there's a lot of play before the dist moves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 :agree: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 Just to add my 2c, the engine should be in 'fuel cutoff mode' when decelerating (foot off the gas, and coasting): Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpnjim Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 FWIW, Ignore the above if you are NOT talking about closed throttle coasting down. If you're just maintaining throttle (small opening, to maintain speed), when the problem happens, the above wouldn't apply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underdog Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 Thanks for the replies. I have a few things to look at during my lunch hour today. I does this primarily when you put the engine under load. I can make it do it by turning the idle way down but as soon as you move it as in let out the clutch and push it back in after being under load is when it will happen every time. There is no catalytic converter on it at the moment. PO took it off and I have just welded in a straight pipe and muffler so I can hear what the motor is doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underdog Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 Check your intake air temp sensor. Nice Comanche and post some pics of that J-truck!!! I want one of those bad :cheers: The J10 is my bosses truck. Its a 72 short box, TBI 350, 700r4, 4.10 gears. Its a fun truck to drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underdog Posted January 11, 2010 Author Share Posted January 11, 2010 I went out and pulled the distributor cap and have about 3/8 of an inch of a turn in the crank before the distributor turns. I am told I shoudnt be too concerned unless I have about 3/4" I checked out a 2006 4.0l that we use for mock up here and it has just a little less. and it had 17k when pulled. So I am thinking that is good. I did find that it is missing the vacuum canister that should be behind the front bumper. The lines are plugged and are not leaking. Should this case anything like this. I thought it was there primarily for heater controls? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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