AMC-MJ Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 1. Now i'm not really in need of more power my truck is plenty peppy. . .But is dose need a new exhaust, The OEM one is rusty and leaking here n there, In most cases the after market or performance exhaust's tend to cost less then replacing the OEM exhaust, the factory had . . . any suggestion's ? thought's ? any body know of any full system kit's ? if it has to be Custom built any suggested sized pipe to move up to or go with ? Its bad from the manifold flange on back. . . 2. Now a friend of mine was snooping around online and he found a "cold air intake" and a "throttle body spacer" has any body tried these ? any thought's comments or suggestions on these ? 3. any other parts one might want to know about ? . . . i'm guessing the 2.5L I-4 is some what limited on after market performance parts ? :dunno: . . :???: . . :dunno: Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Best thing you can do for your 2.5 is upgrade to a 91+ MPFI system. This is a lot of work, but worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC-MJ Posted December 30, 2009 Author Share Posted December 30, 2009 Sound's like more then i care to do . . . I'm all about intake's exhaust's Camshaft's high compression pistons n gearing them down if more power is needed . . . I have thought about running 4.56 gears and a T-5 trans behind this I-4 but wasn't sure if that would be to extreme for a daily driver beater truck ? . . . Maybe 4.11's n a T-5 would be more practical ? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Be a lot of work to get a T-5 in there unless you happened to find one of the extremely rare factory ones as a donor. AX-5 is what you're looking for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC-MJ Posted December 30, 2009 Author Share Posted December 30, 2009 ya, but i also heard the factory AX-5 5spd trans was junk failed a lot ? i don't want to swap in a ticking time bomb ya know ? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 Dunno where you heard that, but no, it's not. The AX-4/5 is a rather decent transmission as long you don't, say, put a GM 3800 out of a Camaro in front of it. I don't know of any cams for the 2.5, and even if you did find higher compression pistons, I doubt they'd do you any good. Besides, I think doing a rebuild for new pistons and a cam would be more work than the MPFI conversion. If you can find a set of 4.56 axles or want to do the regearing, go for it. Gearing the quickest and easier mod you can do for that motor that will be noticeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC-MJ Posted December 30, 2009 Author Share Posted December 30, 2009 Dana/AMC 35: 4.11's: http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetail ... rodID=4443 4.56: http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetail ... rodID=4447 4.88: http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetail ... rodID=4449 these are what i found for gearing option's . . . worth while ? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 I don't know that the AX5 is a ticking time bomb like the BA10/5 is, but it should hold up just fine when not abused too hard. I think the weak spot in the AX5 is the 5th gear from what Ive heard. Cams are supposed to be available in a variety of grinds from Accelerated Motion amotion.com but their website says they are closed till April. I plan on ordering from them in the near future. Clifford Performance offers headers, and a custom intake system that can use either a 390cfm 4 bbl carb, 2 bbl carb, or their own custom fuel injection system. The throttle body spacers are a huge point of debate on here, but general concensus says that they work much better on our 2.5's throttle body system than they do on the 4.0's port injection. A part number Ive found is for a Power Aid spacer PN 310-510... made for a 4.0 but will bolt to a 2.5 supposedly. Definitely gearing down. Ive put 4:10s in mine and it really helped the get up and go, 4:56 would be even better, especially if you plan on somewhat bigger tires. A cold air intake helps a little. I don't think anyone makes one for the 2.5 MJ, but I had one I took off of a Mazda 3 that I cut down to make work on my truck. Takes a little fab work, but nothing huge. Another thing to do, like I did, is get rid of the crankshaft driven electric fan, and install an electric one with a fan controller. Seems to have made a little difference for me, but we are talking about the 2.5 here, so you shouldnt expect too much. Another 5 speed swap you can look into is the NV3550 as mounted in dakotas and wranglers. There is a way to adapt this trans to the 2.5, I just don't have the details right now. I also bought a spare 2.5 for a future rebuild. I plan on maximum overbore, 3 angle valve job, mild port and polish, and above mentioned performance upgrades. Many of the above upgrades are easilly accomplished, but like I said, just don't expect too muck. Good Luck, and let us know how things go, and if you have any questions! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted December 30, 2009 Share Posted December 30, 2009 I wouldn't sink that much money into a D35. If you're going to be buying gears, paying for the setup, you might want to find yourself a better axle first. I know you're putting it behind a 2.5, but of all the 35s I've had, the only one I've had problems with was behind my only 2.5 I've ever had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC-MJ Posted December 30, 2009 Author Share Posted December 30, 2009 I don't know is i buy into the D35 being a bad axle as this D35 has 189,000 miles on it ! Normally a bad diff doesn't go 200K miles with out a any service it don't appear to have had gear lube changed ever in its life. Sound's like i'd be better off tossing a new exhaust on it, mount up a new set of 235 MT's under the rear n driving till it wears out and crush it. $200 set of gear's sure tracking down a whole other axle then regearing sound's like insanity to me . . . EDIT: I'm guessing i should have said "Simple" mod's n upgrades are there any ? I'm talking like easy stuff TBI spacer, cold air intake, exhaust: header ? performance muffler say glass pack ? over sized pipe ? say 2" or 2-1/4" that sort of thing. . . Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WBKrazy Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 the best performance part they make for the 2.5 is an engine hoist, which you can use to replace it with a 4.0 :rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche87 Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 :agree: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I would just go the junkyard and get another D35 from an XJ with a better ratio. all the gear options you listed can be found in 4cyl XJs,i think that would be cheaper then doing gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC-MJ Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 4.0 :rotfl2: :rotf: Junk ! :rotfl2: :rotf: every 4.0 i have seen pukes more oil into the airfilters the it circulate threw the engine :rotfl2: :rotf: :yes: they got more exhaust pouring out the oil fill cap's then they do the tail pipe :yes: :rotf: :rotfl2: as where my 2.5 don't have any blow by and its got 189K miles the above mentioned 4.0's only had 120-160K miles on them :waving: Now an AMC V-8 Performance engine they used in AMX's & Javelins, Now that i would do an I-6 never touch'em. . . 290 2bbl was rated at 200 hp and 260 ftlb. 290 4bbl was rated at 225 hp and 300 ftlb. 304 2bbl was rated at 210 hp and 305 ftlb. 360 2bbl was rated at 245 hp and 365 ftlb. 360 4bbl was rated at 290 hp and 395 ftlb. 390 4bbl was rated at 325 hp and 420 ftlb. 390 4bbl was rated at 340 hp and 430 ftlb. 390 8bbl was rated at 435 hp and 450 ftlb. 401 4bbl was rated at 330 hp and 430 ftlb. Now wheres the I-6 fit in power wise ? I bet it ain't even worth the oil it puke's . . . whats the 360 n 401 truck's rating's ? 360 2bbl 175hp n ??? ftlb. 360 4bbl 195hp n ??? ftlb. 401 4bbl 215hp n 320 ftlb. ? I found the 401's number but not the torque on the 360's. . . Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I think your quoting pre 1972 HP numbers. going by SAE HP the 4.0L spanks alot of those engines a 304 2bbl is about 110-120HP, 4.0L 180-190HP just because the 4.0L leaks oil onto the filter it doesnt mean anything is wrong with it,its a problem in the crank case ventilation and a simple fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I agree with everyone else. JP had an article a few months ago on "performance upgrades" vs re-gearing. Re-gearing won to spoil the article for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepcoma Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 290 2bbl was rated at 200 hp and 260 ftlb. 290 4bbl was rated at 225 hp and 300 ftlb. 304 2bbl was rated at 210 hp and 305 ftlb. 360 2bbl was rated at 245 hp and 365 ftlb. 360 4bbl was rated at 290 hp and 395 ftlb. 390 4bbl was rated at 325 hp and 420 ftlb. 390 4bbl was rated at 340 hp and 430 ftlb. 390 8bbl was rated at 435 hp and 450 ftlb. 401 4bbl was rated at 330 hp and 430 ftlb. Now wheres the I-6 fit in power wise ? Mike Your power numbers look a bit high, pre-emissions gross HP high. My '73 304 Javelin is rated at a measly 150 HP, ~235 torque. It gets worse in some years, 125/220 in early 80s jeeps. 4.0 specs: '87...... XJ: 173hp at 4500rpm, 220lbft @ 2500rpm, redline 5000rpm '88-'90 XJ: 177hp at 4500rpm, 224lbft at 2400rpm, redline 5000rpm '91-'95 XJ: 190hp at 4750rpm, 225lbft at 3950rpm, redline 5250rpm '96-'99 XJ: 190hp at 4600rpm, 225lbft at 3000rpm, redline 5300rpm '00-'01 XJ: 193hp at 4600rpm, 231lbft at 3000rpm, redline 5300rpm '91-'95 YJ: 180hp @ 4750rpm, 220lbft @ 3950rpm, redline 5250rpm '96-'99 TJ: 181hp @ 4600rpm, 222lbft @ 2800rpm, redline 5300rpm '00-'06 TJ: 190hp @ 4600rpm, 235lbft @ 3200rpm, redline 5300rpm '93-'95 ZJ: 190hp @ 4750rpm, 225lbft @ 3950rpm, redline 5250rpm '96-'98 ZJ: 185hp @ 4600rpm, 220lbft @ 2400rpm, redline 5300rpm '99-'05WJ:195hp @ 4600rpm, 230lbft @ 3000rpm, redline 5300rpm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BREEZE1 Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 NOS and APC sticker otta do it! :chillin: also all the oil my 4.0L blows keeps my floor boards from rusting!!! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 NOS and APC sticker otta do it! :chillin: also all the oil my 4.0L blows keeps my floor boards from rusting!!! :cheers: :rotfl2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 Do not buy an exhaust upgrade 'kit'. Just take your truck to the local muffler shop and have 'em install everything from the header/manifold back. Should not cost you more than $300 in labor and parts (catalytic converter, muffler, pipe). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC-MJ Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 Its a 1988 Econ truck that rolled off a line and out of a plant that no longer exists. I priced out axles for a 4WD conversion the 2 yards around here wanted $500 an axle and $750 for the T-Case, i can ReGear the axle i got for $200 sound's by far cheaper then an axle swap ! to me. . . i'll just take it an exhaust shop and see what they can toss on the heap . . . :waving: Mike :waving: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 there is a chrysler 8.25 from and XJ in madison WI for $50 on craigslist. regear that and you will be good to go. there is a place in Juda WI that has a D35 with 4.11s for $250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I priced out axles for a 4WD conversion the 2 yards around here wanted $500 an axle and $750 for the T-Case, i can ReGear the axle i got for $200 sound's by far cheaper then an axle swap ! to me. . . Those prices sound high for used axles. I've bought Dana 44s out of XJs for $75 each at a u-pull-it, and they typically go for $200 to $250 at a yard that pulls 'em for you. Can you actually regear an axle for $200, or is that the cost of the parts only? Unless you have the tools and the experience to set up new gears yourself, trying to save a few $$$ by not having it done professionally can be a very expensive mistake. Have you done it? Do you have the tools? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC-MJ Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 there is a chrysler 8.25 from and XJ in madison WI for $50 on craigslist. regear that and you will be good to go. there is a place in Juda WI that has a D35 with 4.11s for $250 Thank's but i have lost interest, i'm just going to drive it till something expensive break's and recycle it. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMC-MJ Posted December 31, 2009 Author Share Posted December 31, 2009 I priced out axles for a 4WD conversion the 2 yards around here wanted $500 an axle and $750 for the T-Case, i can ReGear the axle i got for $200 sound's by far cheaper then an axle swap ! to me. . . Those prices sound high for used axles. I've bought Dana 44s out of XJs for $75 each at a u-pull-it, and they typically go for $200 to $250 at a yard that pulls 'em for you. Can you actually regear an axle for $200, or is that the cost of the parts only? Unless you have the tools and the experience to set up new gears yourself, trying to save a few $$$ by not having it done professionally can be a very expensive mistake. Have you done it? Do you have the tools? Yes sir $200 is the parts shipped to my door and then installed ! that's the complete cost tax title tag's out the door said n done driving down the road cost. But i as i said i'm no longer interested, it is what it is, I'm just going to use it as a beater and drive it till something expensive break's n recycle it . . . Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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