What rear driveshafts work w/ ur swaps/ conversions...

[JeepcoMJ]

I'm trying to compile a list of viable MJ rear driveshaft interchanges...

 

 

Of the swaps/conversions I've done...

 

truck:

Longbed 2.8/2.5 liter, 4x4, 5 speed/4 speed manual, np207 with a dana 44 rear and stock springs (I converted from d35 to d44)

driveshaft that works:

Shortbed 4.0, 2wd, aw4 auto with a dana 44 rear

 

truck:

Longbed 4.0, 4x4, 5 speed (ax15 and ba10/5), np231 with dana 44 rear and M/T springs (converted from d35/3" AAL 2wd pack to d44,M/t pack)

driveshaft that works:

Longbed 4.0, 4x4, aw4 automatic with d35 rear and stock 4x springs

 

 

 

add more if you have any. also please add driveshaft lengths, measured from center of ujoint to center of ujoint. I will update mine with lengths when I get a chance to measure.

[FireFighter32]

Truck:

1989 Comanche Short Bed D35 Rear. Converted to 4.0 HO, AX-15, np231, all out of a 94 Cherokee

 

Drive Shaft the Worked

Shaft believed to be out of a '79 Camaro. Even the yoke for the Turbo 350 fit, however I swapped a Cherokee yoke on. Could use a longer yoke.

[neohic]

I like taking the rear drive shafts out of late '60s and early '70s Chevy pickups and having them shortened. The wall of the tubing is nice and thick and the u-joints are the same as the MJs so you can use a yoke that matches your transfer case.

[JeepcoMJ]

I like taking the rear drive shafts out of late '60s and early '70s Chevy pickups and having them shortened. The wall of the tubing is nice and thick and the u-joints are the same as the MJs so you can use a yoke that matches your transfer case.

 

 

this thread is about bolt-in drive shafts. I'll thank anyone to keep other information out.

 

 

this is for guys planning on swaps, so they can plan accordingly and pick up what they need before the swap....keeping them from being stranded. I'm sure we've all been at that point of "oh sh*t I have to drive this thing to work in 20 minutes and have no rear drive shaft...

[500 MJ]

I see your point Pat, but I like the point that neohic brings up too. Stuff like this is good to know. Maybe we can make a separate thread for bolt ins and one for sources... :popcorn:

 

I like taking the rear drive shafts out of late '60s and early '70s Chevy pickups and having them shortened. The wall of the tubing is nice and thick and the u-joints are the same as the MJs so you can use a yoke that matches your transfer case.

 

 

this thread is about bolt-in drive shafts. I'll thank anyone to keep other information out.

 

 

this is for guys planning on swaps, so they can plan accordingly and pick up what they need before the swap....keeping them from being stranded. I'm sure we've all been at that point of "oh sh*t I have to drive this thing to work in 20 minutes and have no rear drive shaft...

[JeepcoMJ]

I see your point Pat, but I like the point that neohic brings up too. Stuff like this is good to know. Maybe we can make a separate thread for bolt ins and one for sources... :popcorn:

 

I like taking the rear drive shafts out of late '60s and early '70s Chevy pickups and having them shortened. The wall of the tubing is nice and thick and the u-joints are the same as the MJs so you can use a yoke that matches your transfer case.

 

 

this thread is about bolt-in drive shafts. I'll thank anyone to keep other information out.

 

 

this is for guys planning on swaps, so they can plan accordingly and pick up what they need before the swap....keeping them from being stranded. I'm sure we've all been at that point of "oh sh*t I have to drive this thing to work in 20 minutes and have no rear drive shaft...

 

there are umpteen tech articles/questions about rear driveshafts, and it has become almost common knowledge on the thread that you'll probably have to cut down your rear driveshaft because you probably won't find one that works.

 

 

this is a thread about uncommon knowledge reguarding which driveshafts work

[Pete M]

how about a post asking for driveshaft lengths for all the possible MJ configurations?

[JeepcoMJ]

how about a post asking for driveshaft lengths for all the possible MJ configurations?

 

 

that's a good idea.

[mfpdm]

how about a post asking for driveshaft lengths for all the possible MJ configurations?

 

I tried that once and it didn't get very far.

 

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5036&start=15

 

There are more in tech as well. Here's another one, viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6697

 

 

:cheers:

[Pete M]

I started a new one in Tech and stickied it. Feel free to fill in all that data from the older threads. :thumbsup:

[comanche09]

Wow, how did I miss this thread...

 

I was at the U-pull yesterday and while there started looking for possible shaft donors for my swap (forgot my tape measure :wall: ).

 

I wonder if there is a website for u-joints that fit our rigs and also referenced the vehicle they are on.

 

Two vehicles caught my eye for a possible shaft donor:

 

1993 Chevy Astro Van Ext (need to research)

 

1984 S-10 Blazer V6 2wd (need to research)

 

Truck:

1989 Comanche Short Bed D35 Rear. Converted to 4.0 HO, AX-15, np231, all out of a 94 Cherokee

 

Drive Shaft the Worked

Shaft believed to be out of a '79 Camaro. Even the yoke for the Turbo 350 fit, however I swapped a Cherokee yoke on. Could use a longer yoke.

 

Thanks for posting this, I know I saw a few old camaros at the yard...

 

I'd rather keep my stock DS, who knows, years down the road may want to do a full ground up resto.

[comanche09]

OK. Need some help.

 

Picked up a $12 1986 Firebird Trans-Am Driveshaft at the u-pull. It measures 41 1/2" Eye-To-Eye.

 

Per the stock driveshaft sticky, OEM shaft length for 4.0L / AX-15 / NP 231 or 242 / D44 or 8.25 I need is 42 1/4"...

 

Two Questions:

 

Can I get by safely with the 3/4" shorter length???

 

If I can:

 

Per the Dana Spicer Catalog, it specs 1310 series U-joints for OEM and specs 1350 series U-joints for the Firebird shaft (it specs the same for the '79 Camaro shaft posted above, How did you get it to work FireFighter32??).

 

What mods would I need to make to make this driveshaft work??? Thanks

 

EDIT: Well for reference: IF i had the "w/outside snap rings" a 1310 to 1350 conversion spicer 5-460x ujoint would be the solution.

 

But, looks like the shaft I got is a non-spicer "Mechanics" S44 brand "w/inside snap rings". Bummer

 

EDIT: Gotta love the internet:

 

http://www.neapco.com/n_products-catalogs.php?pdffile=2

 

Conversion U-Joint from Neapco: Part number: 3-3130BF (Saginaw S44 (Inside Snap Ring) to Spicer 1310 (Outside Snap Ring) Conversion U-joint)

 

 

This is the U-Joint (2) needed to run the Sagninaw inside snap ring Camaro/Firebird Driveshaft.

[comanche09]

Bump. How much shorter than stock can we get away with? Can anyone post with experience? Thanks

[Pete M]

I wouldn't go any shorter than stock. that's a compromise for guys lifting their trucks. It shouldn't be, but is. I found a shop near me that shortened my 2wd shaft.

 

But if you had no choice, yeah, you could probably get away with a 3/4" deficit.

[comanche09]

I wouldn't go any shorter than stock. that's a compromise for guys lifting their trucks. It shouldn't be, but is. I found a shop near me that shortened my 2wd shaft.

 

But if you had no choice, yeah, you could probably get away with a 3/4" deficit.

 

Thanks for the reply Pete. :cheers:

 

My original driveshaft is the rubber sandwich one and I think the rubber may be no good or going out. It looks pretty cracked and dry from what I can see of the rubber.

[Pete M]

well, if the rubber is truly bad, then I guess don't use it. I used mine though. They cut down the non-rubber end and it worked great. :D

[waggy]

for a shorter drive shaft , you can drop the t case a bit or use a longer slip yoke off a YJ . they can make up for small amounts ,

[Pete M]

for a shorter drive shaft , you can drop the t case a bit or use a longer slip yoke off a YJ . they can make up for small amounts ,

 

 

Gotta be careful with that though. A t-case drop will lower the back end, but it will also increase the angle of the front shaft.

[comanche09]

Hey all,

 

Just an update on my driveshaft quest:

 

At the junkyard,

 

1986 S-10 4x4 Short Bed V6- Rear driveshaft length= 42 5/8" This would work great for a 4.0L AX-15/BA-10 4X4 SWB, however you would need bastardized u-joints to run it as they are slightly bigger than the 1310's. I would have snapped it up, but it was way too rust pitted.

 

'92-94 Ford Crown Victoria / Mercury Grand Marquis (without tow package)- These are beefy steel driveshaft that run 1310 u-joints and are very long 53"+ and would need to be cut down. If you see that the shaft is aluminum, that is the tow package equipped model and requires larger ujoints. Only problem is the yard moves them with forklifts and every shaft was dented on these.

 

'92-98 Lincoln Town Car- Same as above.

 

'90+ Ford Aerostar- If you can find a steel one, it also runs 1310 u-joints, would work with cutting down.