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wheel stud knurl interference question


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I've got a set of Superior axleshafts and an Aussie locker for my 8.25 sitting under my bed right now, and the only thing holding me up is a little confusion on what I should do as far as wheel studs.

I initially wanted to spend a couple extra bucks and get some super-duper-never-break-never-ever studs from ARP, but they didn't have anyting by application, so I called them. The dude on the tech line told me that he didn't have anything with the correct thread pitch, shoulder length, or knurl diameter available to purchase directly from him. The part that caught my interest was what he told me about the knurl diameter.

I measure from .575" to .600" ID on the hubs of my new shafts. Stock replacement studs from NAPA are .615" knurl diameter. This ARP guy strongly suggested that I go no bigger than .605" knurl diameter so not to risk splitting the hub... I called Superior, he said beat in some new stockers... what do the ever so helpfull experienced dudes on here say?

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I've never heard of people breaking wheel studs while driving, wheeling, or otherwise. I'd just pound in some new stockers and call it a day. If you somehow manage to break one, which I doubt you will, then I'd worry about upgrading.

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I used stock ones with my Alloy USA rear shafts, I couldn't get them in. I froze the studs and heated the flange with a MAP torch, ended up bending a ball joint press trying to get them in. I ended up taking a file and filing down the knurled part a little until I could press them in.

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Yes, I agree with that - no need for super studs. I had to replace my stock axle studs with longer studs when I installed rear Ford Explorer disk brakes to make up for the thickness of the disk backing plates. I just pulled one, brought it down to a local machine shop / auto parts store (not a chain store) and they had aftermarket Dorman studs w. the correct knurl and stud length 3/8" longer than what I had. These worked just fine.

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