SuperWade2 Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Figures... Is there anything "easy" I can check? It passed 2 years ago when I had to do it last time. I either get to fix on my own and then go back and pay the $50 to test again, or I can pay them $90/hr to diagnose and fix and not have to pay for the re-check. My tags are already 2 months expired and I can't renew until it passes the Smog check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 Vac line from the solenoid to the valve. It's either a bad relay, solenoid, or valve. Nothing really else involved unless you somehow managed to rust out the pipe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 Vac line from the solenoid to the valve. It's either a bad relay, solenoid, or valve. Nothing really else involved unless you somehow managed to rust out the pipe. After spending a few minutes starting at the service manual and my goofy vacuum line setup, I"m pretty sure it was wrong, WAY WAY Wrong...there were all kinds of extensions and stuff plugged into the wrong spots etc. I don't know how it passed last time, or who the idiot that owned this before me was, but it was really screwy. The right side of my main vacuum block looks like it has multiple busts pieces broke off inside the line ports and there were some things that were just flat wrong. So 2 ?'s A) Does anyone have a Main Vacuum Block thingy they'd be willing to send me for cheap B) Does someone have a decent pic of the block and where everything is supposed to run (I see the schematic of the lines, but it doesn't cover the vac block thing) this is pretty much the only things I can find, and they both kind of suck... there are 6 ports on either side of that main vac block (is that even the right term?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinkrun Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Sorry to hear wish I could help mines been changed alot also. Good thing there is only a visual inspection here in good old Pennsylvania :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Sorry to hear wish I could help mines been changed alot also. Good thing there is only a visual inspection here in good old Pennsylvania :banana: I just went ahead and ordered the $15 Rear (Drivers Half) Vacuum Harness that appears like it has the lines and everything already connected. I replaced the other 1/2 of the harness at some point in the past, but never realized how screwed up the other side was. RockAuto - Doorman 46004 (53004868) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 the easiest way to check EGR is to have the truck idling and apply vacuum to the valve to open it. if the idle drops runs like crap, or even dies the valve itself is working properly... if there is no change the valve itself is INOP. thats where i would start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
500 MJ Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 You are correct in ordering the vacuum harness online, that the best way to do it. However, you'll need to get the other half of it as well if yours is all messed up like it sounds. The harness separates into two pieces at that "block". It clips together there and you then hook up the rubber boots and you are good to go. Also, check that the small S shaped line from the grommet on the top of the valve cover is clear of oil and gunk. If its clogged and your line is still flexible you can cut up and straighten a metal clothes hanger to run through it to unclog it. De-greaser helps too. A good cleaning (scrubbing with a toothbrush) of the throttle body with paint thinner or mineral spirits will make sure things in there are nice and clean and functioning properly too. Just put your TPS back the way you found it or don't touch it at all! Good luck. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 You are correct in ordering the vacuum harness online, that the best way to do it. However, you'll need to get the other half of it as well if yours is all messed up like it sounds. The harness separates into two pieces at that "block". It clips together there and you then hook up the rubber boots and you are good to go. Also, check that the small S shaped line from the grommet on the top of the valve cover is clear of oil and gunk. If its clogged and your line is still flexible you can cut up and straighten a metal clothes hanger to run through it to unclog it. De-greaser helps too. A good cleaning (scrubbing with a toothbrush) of the throttle body with paint thinner or mineral spirits will make sure things in there are nice and clean and functioning properly too. Just put your TPS back the way you found it or don't touch it at all! Good luck. :thumbsup: Thanks, I ordered both halves of the vacuum harness, even though the Passenger half wasn't that old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritas4156 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Solution: Move out of cali. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Solution: Move out of cali. Maybe when my wife leaves me and I get laid off... Not sure I'd take the MJ if I was just going to jump in a vehicle and drive...(not that it's crossed my mind.. :oops: ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritas4156 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 I'm not sure if that was a joke or an incredibly negative outlook on life. I'll say lol as if it was a joke. But if you do pick up and go, take the MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 I'm not sure if that was a joke or an incredibly negative outlook on life. I'll say lol as if it was a joke. But if you do pick up and go, take the MJ. That was a Joke... I have a very dark sense of humor, a fairly healthly marriage a decent job and if I were 'taking off' a TJ that I would take over my MJ every day of the week and twice on Sunday... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Got the Vac Block parts in the mail today from Rock Auto....Assuming I have all the vacuum lines where they need to be, is there an EGR testing procedure that I do at home before I take it back in to try to get it smogged again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Got the Vac Block parts in the mail today from Rock Auto....Assuming I have all the vacuum lines where they need to be, is there an EGR testing procedure that I do at home before I take it back in to try to get it smogged again? apply manifold vacuum directly to the egr valve manually (putting a vacuum line from intake-it direct) and if the idle gets REALLY BAD or the truck dies completely then the actual valve itself operates Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 4, 2009 Author Share Posted November 4, 2009 Thanks for the help guys... I'll try to test the EGR this evening I hope... One more maybe related question... the guy that was doing the Smog Check said it was idling too high to pass (which it didn't anyhow because of EGR)... I think he said it was running 1200-1500RPM's when it was warmed up, so he dialed down the idle a bit and said it was just under 1000 RPM after he messed with it. I"m not sure if this is S.O.P. for a smog check...but :???: Anyhow, now that I think the vacuum parts working the way they should, when it was running last night in the garage (not fully warmed up), the idle seemed pretty low and was at or just under 500RPM. Should I adjust it back up, or just leave it be? SW2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 500 RPM is too low; make it 700-900 RPM if possible (@ fully warmed up) - mo betta. At 500 you might find yourself stalling out at stop signs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 500 RPM is too low; make it 700-900 RPM if possible (@ fully warmed up) - mo betta. At 500 you might find yourself stalling out at stop signs. Is there just an adjustment bolt/screw on the throttle body? (I wasn't there when we was f'ing with it, and I've never adjusted one before) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 How did I know you were going to ask that? :D There's a butterfly adj. stop screw on the HOs, I think the same or similar for the Renix throttle body. The Renix gurus will soon chime in here I'm certain. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 the 2.8L carb also has a screw. Don't know about the renix though. Anyone else have any less-than-helpful input? :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Yes, the Renix 4.0 throttle bodies have a stop screw to crack the butterfly open a bit for a higher idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 Yes, the Renix 4.0 throttle bodies have a stop screw to crack the butterfly open a bit for a higher idle. Yah, it's just not real apparent that there is a screw anywhere up there looking visually or any of the service manuals I have... In fact, I'm still looking... SW2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 Hm. I thought there was. Wait, no there isn't. The TB Pat threw at me was adjusted by bending it. My bad. With a drill bit, tap, and small screw you could probably add one in about 10 minutes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 With a drill bit, tap, and small screw you could probably add one in about 10 minutes.. Oh Yah... I'm doing that....I wonder how the dude at the shop adjusted it down...I guess maybe I go ask him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 5, 2009 Share Posted November 5, 2009 cleaned out the IAC yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share Posted November 5, 2009 cleaned out the IAC yet? uhhh....... :huh???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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