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360 Fuel Injection Build


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  • 4 months later...

Don't remember what motor mounts I used right off hand. I have the napa part numbers at home and will let you know what they are. We did weld mounts to the frame and can get some pics if you would like.

 

The headers are summit brand block hugger http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G9064/ bare headers with POR 20 applied. Didn't prep them well enough for the Por but worked for mock up and for now.

 

The stock oil pan cleared. We set the motor so that the oil pan would clearance the front axle by a few inches. The exhaust is a mandrel bend kit we cut and welded to fit. Its tight

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New header gaskets makes for no leaks and great sound!

 

 

 

 

almost finished interior, still lack window switches, B pillar lights, painting the blue plastics gray.

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The seats are nice, but since they are all power and heated they have a little more thickness to them.

feels like your riding higher than you really are. still plenty of head room though.

 

 

 

Taurus 2 speed fan with DCC controller,

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new turn signal and running lights...

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Found a emblem for the tailgate, soo sweet

 

still need to paint the bumper and Fabricate a hitch

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engine bay is pretty much finished except for air-box and charcoal canister

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If you need some b-pillar lights, I have some stock ones, but I take it your going with the euramtec lights like you have in the red truck. If you want them though, just swing by; I've got several to pick from.

 

Oh and the clear marker lights look good on your truck with all that chrome. I'm going to miss them on mine.

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Funny thing is I used two computers. The 99 cherokee computer for the gauges and the dodge engine computer for engine control. The reason i did it this way was because I had stated installing the dash before I had realized that the gauges run from the computer (ie not like old stuff where it just runs straight to the gauge from the sending unit)

 

So therefor I installed the gauge computer behind the passenger air bag cover (didnt use airbags) and used the respective sending units for the gauges ran them to the computer and then computer to the gauges.

 

If i had known this before hand I might not have done the dash swap. But oh well everything works except for the tach. I don't know what to supply the gauge computer from the engine to make the tack work. Ive tried neg tack trigger and crank sensor but still can't seem to get it to work. Maybe some one can figure this out for me.....

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Perhaps there is no CEL because the wires needed for that to light up are not hooked up? It would seem incredibly odd that your "gauge" computer, which is receiving very little input from he engine, other than signals from a few sensors, would not throw a CEL.

 

OR, maybe the "gauge" computer simply doesn't know that the engine is running and it's basically sitting in a similar mode to when the key is in the 'on' position (but engine not running) - where the gauges work and display their current reading, but the computer isn't actually controlling anything engine related.

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Maybe that's part why I can't get the tach to work.... I know on older cars if for say you unhook the coil to distributor wire and try and crank it the tach still registers. Is this the same for this year jeep?

 

perhaps. maybe it won't work if there's no cps and cam sensor signal? idk.

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no its because we took the bulb out for the cel.

 

the computer doesn't think its running because we don't have the signal wires for the cam or crank sensors hooked up, although it would register wrong anyways since it would be 8 pulses instead of 6.

 

that is where lies the big problem, we would need some kind of signal converter before the computer for it to accurately comprehend and think it was the 6 cyl. for both circuits for it to give the gauge cluster a tach reading.

 

might as well make a custom gauge pod in the new dash, with a tach that works off the negative side of the coil.

 

 

all in all if you going to run the new dash and want all the gauges to work properly, you need to swap everything and run the same engine.

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no its because we took the bulb out for the cel.

 

the computer doesn't think its running because we don't have the signal wires for the cam or crank sensors hooked up, although it would register wrong anyways since it would be 8 pulses instead of 6.

 

that is where lies the big problem, we would need some kind of signal converter before the computer for it to accurately comprehend and think it was the 6 cyl. for both circuits for it to give the gauge cluster a tach reading.

 

might as well make a custom gauge pod in the new dash, with a tach that works off the negative side of the coil.

 

 

go to http://myplace.frontier.com/~vze7erz1/id1.html and drop $40 for an inverter. ta-da, done.

 

I used them for the VATS bypass for my '96 camaro motor to make it run.

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