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What is the most important tip you'd share with MJ owners?


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always have a parts rig in your driveway..or 3.

My 89 4.0 Comanche has 343K and still runs like a top. 

Upgrade your ground cables!!!   Recommend doing the WJ/XJ brake booster conversion. It makes your stopping power so much more.   Replace the hard vacuum lines with rubber hoses of the same inside

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If you're going to fix something, do it properly. You don't know how much trouble quickly thrown together repairs can cause later on especially if you ever sell it. A cheap fix becomes an expensive problem later on.

 

And don't take it to a shop unless you have to. Just from minor things (serpentine belts, idler pulley, diff fluid, etc) my math tells me I've saved almost $300 in the past two months doing the work myself.

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If you're going to fix something, do it properly. You don't know how much trouble quickly thrown together repairs can cause later on especially if you ever sell it. A cheap fix becomes an expensive problem later on.

 

And don't take it to a shop unless you have to. Just from minor things (serpentine belts, idler pulley, diff fluid, etc) my math tells me I've saved almost $300 in the past two months doing the work myself.

That goes with any car my buddy paid almost 300 for a tow and new battery...and it wasnt even the battery..

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When it comes to tools I'm sure we all have an assortment of metric and SAE wrenches and sockets.
Seems the one that gives me the most grief is 18mm whatevers, seems they aren't standard in most sets.

I suggest buying a 18mm box/end wrench and a few 18mm deep & std sockets.

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When it comes to tools I'm sure we all have an assortment of metric and SAE wrenches and sockets.

Seems the one that gives me the most grief is 18mm whatevers, seems they aren't standard in most sets.

I suggest buying a 18mm box/end wrench and a few 18mm deep & std sockets.

I would have killed for a 18mm 6pt 1/2" drive socket to get an oddball lug nut off today,

glad my friend let me use his shop today to get it off, thank you George.

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The horn button on eliminator steering wheels has allen whench bolts on it. don't TRY TO TURN THEM! they are very soft and will just distort and strip. not that i tried it or anything... :doh: :dunce: :fool: but the horn button just pulls off with allitle delicate pressure ;)

 

Yeah I didnt do this either......... if the horn button starts to get loose and rattle, it just pulls off and then you tighten the three screws behind it. 

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My Tips:

*put on mud flaps for your front tires! looks dumb but it saves the bottom of your side panels

*Make a cup holder out of thick foam

*upgrade your grounds!

*If your truck isnt starting... replace the CPS with only a MOPAR not an auto store special

*Put dielectric grease on all your electrical connections

*Upgrade your brakes with a later year XJ brake booster

*undercoat!!

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Most definitely invest 50 cents in a stick on blind spot mirror for the drivers side. Comanches are notorious for that blind spot between the side and back windows. Can't tell you how many close calls we have had with someone driving to our left hiding just behind the window frame.

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Ever have a saggy headliner? The cause is the sun/heat. If you can park your MJ with a good headliner in the shade or indoors, the glue will not de-laminate. For the 99% that are already hanging, just RIP EM OUT! We don't need no stinking headliners! Removal of the fabric and the foam backer leave you handy storage shelves all the way around the cab. A rattle can full of your favorite mix of toxic colored chemicals makes it pleasing to the eye and saves you a good 150 +/- bucks that can be better spent elsewhere. It also gives us fat @$$ / too tall bastids more headroom. Now if I could only find a cheap way to stretch the cab and move the seat back 4 inches. Has anyone ever extended their cab and installed the big Cherokee doors that come on a 2 door? That's my dream project but would cost more than I ever paid for an MJ!

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4.0 Renix distributor has an odd number of drive gear teeth and cannot be replaced in any old postion.  I've bought new (remanufactured) distributors that had the pickup replaced and power checked but not the timing.  It the rotor doesn't match the position EXACTLY to before you pulled the distributor it is because the drive gear is 180 degrees off.  Punch out the mounting pin, rotate the gear 180 and repin (with flares so it won't come out in the engine). You can start the engine with a distributor whose timing is off but it won't rev without puking up motor parts out your tailpipe.

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:thumbsup: Check Yearly the electric connectors in the main electric wires down the cabin  because affect the transmission performance. For example if this cables are failure the transmission do not change in the best way, never check this connectors and cables fix the transmission and repeat the problem. Another is possible to fire the vehicle I had this experience when I had my Cherokee never check and my cherokee fire from this cables to the rest of electrical connections. :wrench:        

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If you are having any problems related to the TPS. Try cleaning the c101. Everything on the drivers side of the engine goes through this connector.

Check out Post #27 in the link below. Eliminate that troublesome C101!!!

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There's way too much "troublesome" crap on a Renix system. There must have been something lost in the translation between the Renault Electronique and Bendix design engineers. It's a kludge system (an ill-assorted collection of parts assembled to fulfill a particular purpose) that AMC farmed out for bottom $$ in an attempt to survive a few more years. 

 

That being said, keep up the good work keeping the Renix machines alive and well Cruiser-man.  :cheers:

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