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Pete M

What is the most important tip you'd share with MJ owners?

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:fs1: Don't let it rip your insides up :wall: . . . :rotf: . . . Work related injury i think but i can't be sure :hmm:

 

 

Mike

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Always always always always always do a toe-in alignment after ANY height change(up or down), front axle swap, or steering component change. They are incredibly easy to do.

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I learned the hard way, if you buy an 1986 2.5L 4cyl handle, everything with kid gloves. alot of these parts are not only not interchangeable, but their extremely hard to find. From 1986 to 1987 Jeep/AMC changed alot, both on the engine and in the interior. Be extremely careful handling certain parts.

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How's it fellas and aloha from Molokai. Wanted to throw in if your belt is squeeling check your harmonic balancer first. Easy to inspect just check for flushness of the two peices if separated at all time to change. Don't throw money at other stuff. Simple change even for newbie. Make sure the puller comes with 5/16in bolts not 3/8 or you will be taking a trip to buy some smaller puller bolts. You don't have to pull radiator. Also thanks to all the people who run and share info on this site helped me out a bunch of times. Aloha Ryan

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My 88 has an AX-15, I run Royal Purple in it.

 

This is not about what oil etc, it is about warming the tranny/TC on a extreme cold day (below zero) for easier shifting.

 

Last week it was below zero for a few days. It was so cold that I could barely shift into first, let alone make the change from

 

first to second.

 

My solution, Leave the trans in 5th gear, 4 low.

 

5th gear because on start up push in the clutch, shift TC to neutral-1 step forwards (tranny stays in 5th gear), let her run for a few

 

minutes during warm up. 5th gear keeps everything spinning faster for quicker easier shifting sooner.

 

Leaving in 5th keeps the truck from rolling when parked, but don't count on it. Mechanical advantage of 5th gear overcomes

 

engine compression easily. You should only do this on level ground. 5th on the tranny so I don't have to shift into when cold.

 

Why not use the E brake, because it gets wet then freezes solid.

 

Does the TC pump run when the TC lever is in neutral? I don't know. Is it harmful to the TC? IDK This is only for the few weeks of

 

the year when we deal with subzero temps. Besides, 231s are plentiful.

 

Theoretically you could do this with an auto, actually I don't see why not.

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just in case if you spill oil, use snow to pack them up and let snow absorb them up. its work great to me! because I don't have cat liter or other stuff. snow appear in my head.

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there are 2 wires behind you back bumper.they look like they should be plugged together.they should not!!!!!! they will blow your fuse for your dash lights,door buzzer,tail lights and parking lights!!! well on a 87 anyways.

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always carry a spare fuel pump ballast resistor and then a spare for your spare.

or carry a jumper wire to get you home.

 

Aint nothing worse than something so stupid leaving ya stranded.

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:Canadaflag: Mark your TPS location on the throttle plate assembly, with like a knife mark. i accidentally knocked mine out of line 1/8th inch, and put my engine into WOT mode "wide open throttle", i spend approx 10 hours troubleshooting the problem.

ps i was shampooing the engine, to a showroom shine, i'm the original owner of a 88 mj 4.0 5 speed, 266kms

 

Yep, i did the same thing. Comanches don't like an engine wash. Too many sensors. Never did that again. :wall:

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under the front bumper on the passenger/right side is a vacuum bottle with 4 hose barbs ..hoses travel by the battery to water valve and manifold vac. ..this can give you fits if any of the hoses leak ! trust me on this one ,my friend's MJ had this leak bad !!

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Don't know if it has been mentioned yet but always check any fluids and replace them asap its hard telling if this has ever been done. And a second tip get some paraffin wax and a propane torch. This will usually allow you to get any stubborn bolts nuts sparkplugs and such out. Heat the bolt,nut or sparkplug up with torch apply wax and repeat if necessary. I say this because I had a sparkplug seized in the head of my 86 2.5. It works, believe me. got the junk autolights out and some good NGK v powers in there now.

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:clapping: Great posts one and all!! I'm too new to jeeps to have any tip or tricks, but have learned tons from all I've read here.

 

Question..Abbreviations are fine when you know what the mean, but for us newbies might I suggest a topic site here, be started

 

on abbrs. Perhaps I have missed an area here that is already available and one of you would be kind enuff to direct it to me.

 

I've been around, well let's just say I might be in the top 5 of the oldest guys here, but I am very impressed with all of you and your

 

willingness to share and aid those of us who need it. Hopefully one day when I am more versed with jeeps and MJs in particular, I will

 

be able to reciprocate. Thanks again amigos...i'm gonna didi on out of here...bfn jamminz.gif

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Question..Abbreviations are fine when you know what the mean, but for us newbies might I suggest a topic site here, be started

 

on abbrs. Perhaps I have missed an area here that is already available and one of you would be kind enuff to direct it to me.

 

here ya go viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12815

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with 2.5 liter power steering pump top front bolt - replace with a stud with a app.5 mm shoulder and washer, flanged nut ...oh yes use some never seize on it too - why this you ask ? to set the belt tension easier so you loosen the pump bolts other ones -it stays even with the tracking ...

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Jeeps will potentially consume all of your excess money.

 

*Your wife/girlfriend will get pissed because you work on your Jeep to much.

 

First one...already in the process of it :D

Second...She helps me work on my Jeep...on her own free will jamminz.gifcomanche.gif

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watch out about system ground wires !! corrosion is a pain ,its part of electrolysis with use of never seize with no-ox this mix will stop alot of troubles before you get them Electrical Contact Lubricant

"NO-OX-ID A-Special Electrical Grade"

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