Jump to content
Pete M

What is the most important tip you'd share with MJ owners?

Recommended Posts

23 spline count 231 transfer cases are always in demand. If your old TC (231) is still good, a possible way to save on shipping is to just source/change the needed 23 spline input. Someone on the board here sold me just the input for like $30 bucks. I had to split the case to swap it but it was pretty easy to do.

If you can pull a tranny, splitting a TC is doable. Besides it gives a person a better understanding of how a TC works.

 

Learning is always a good thing, and in this case could be cheaper. :smart:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When swapping an AX-15 from the JY, be sure to ask for all the linkages, brackets, crossmember, driveshaft, master cylinder and all the bolts that were removed from those components when they were removed (if possible). Doing so will help prevent time consuming searches for missing parts later. jamminz.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:cheers: Keeping fix it :fs1: yep it sucks keep fixing it once its finally fixed it'll run better then before it broke :bowdown:

 

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The horn button on eliminator steering wheels has allen whench bolts on it. don't TRY TO TURN THEM! they are very soft and will just distort and strip. not that i tried it or anything... :doh: :dunce: :fool: but the horn button just pulls off with allitle delicate pressure ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The horn button on eliminator steering wheels has allen whench bolts on it. don't TRY TO TURN THEM! they are very soft and will just distort and strip. not that i tried it or anything... :doh: :dunce: :fool: but the horn button just pulls off with allitle delicate pressure ;)

 

Just an FYI, that's nothing specific to the Eliminator. All the Renix XJs and MJs with the 3 spoke steering wheel had those. In 91 they started getting a similar cap, but with no screws. Both my MJs are 91, and both now have the much cooler Renix horn caps. :cheers:

 

I'd been contemplating seeing if those would come out, but now I don't think I'll try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I put eliminator because i know those came in eliminators. but anyway whoever has one can remove it simply by pulling on the top of it toward you, not downward. don't jerk or snatch just pull until it pops off, then push it back on when your done. :thumbsup: this is usefull if your horn only beeps part of the time, because that means you have rusty contacts and need to take your horn button appart and hit it with some sand paper. it only takes a couple minutes but makes you atleast 20 times more annoying :rotf: make sure you turn your switch on and test the horn before you put the cap back on it, even though it is easy to put back on. And before you put the three screws back in make sure the one rectangular slot is on the top of the horn buton, not to the sides. if its on one of the sides it will make your jeep emblem on your button face the wrong way :smart:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and while were on the subject of horns... the actual horn is found in front of the driver side front wheel.you have to get on the ground and look up to find it. there may be a ruber-like flap hanging down but it can be pulled out of the way with some delicate manuevering. once you get that out of the way the horn is right there :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I put eliminator because i know those came in eliminators. but anyway whoever has one can remove it simply by pulling on the top of it toward you, not downward. don't jerk or snatch just pull until it pops off, then push it back on when your done. :thumbsup: this is usefull if your horn only beeps part of the time, because that means you have rusty contacts and need to take your horn button appart and hit it with some sand paper. it only takes a couple minutes but makes you atleast 20 times more annoying :rotf: make sure you turn your switch on and test the horn before you put the cap back on it, even though it is easy to put back on. And before you put the three screws back in make sure the one rectangular slot is on the top of the horn buton, not to the sides. if its on one of the sides it will make your jeep emblem on your button face the wrong way :smart:

 

It's 10x more annoying to your neighbors if you take the steering wheel/horn stuff apart at 10:00 P.M. without disconnecting the battery. :rotf: :rotf:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

oh yes. haha my horn button experience was particularly nice becauase i was in my girlfriends little suburb neghborhood and i had two different horns on my mj trying to make them honk. It sounded like the end of the world in that neighborhood for like 15 mintues due to the severely out of tune horns and the volume :clapping:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Two things really...... First, (stick shift guys) check the tranny fluid regularly!!! these transmissions are fairly weak but the biggest failure is caused by fluid leakage. These units were very poorly designed & are leaks waiting to happen!!

 

Second, I've recieved more Jeeps free or nearly free because the previous owned swore they had a bad rear main seal. Even after I shared the real problem with them.

Check & clean (or replace) the PCV line. (4.0). That tiny little thing plugs up & then it can't breath & starts blowing out the rear main.

 

Those are the two biggest things I would guess (in my opinion, for what its worth)

 

JEEP ON!!!!

 

Craig

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

:cheers: When doing a V-8 Repower Use an AMC-V8 :cheers:

 

I couldn't wait till August so i bought my engine now sadly still gotta wait till August to receive it . . . Leaves me plenty of time to find a 2WD AX-15 :hmm: and an MJ AMC-20 :hmm:

 

AMC-V8 / 5spd manual / 4.10s and 235/75R15C tires jamminz.gif It'll tow good and be quick empty ;)

 

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

* If you think any of your lights are burnt out, check them properly. DO NOT beat on them, EVEN if it is your hand and youre barely hitting them. Side markers are especially hard to come by these days.

 

* Replacing your corroded battery cable end terminals and coating them makes a world of difference.

 

* Not having a 4WD jeep not only sucks, but its embarrassing. However, this shouldn't keep you from making fun of anyones new girl jeep that they've decided to start making these last few years.

 

JEEP ON!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with a 2WD jeep they make fine V8 hot rod plat form.

 

They weigh less the a 2WD S-10 or Ranger so the same power goes faster !

 

But that being said the 2WD jeep is still very capable unit as I have had the pleasure of pulling a hand full of

4WDs out this last winter ;) ! Not embarrassing for me at all !

 

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i totally agree all of your comments!

 

my tips:

* make sure u check wires if there corrision or not. if yes replace it!

*use solder to seal wires-never use tape and please use heat shrink.

*check your vacuum hoses before think hard to make sure engine running fine

*wash your jeep after wheelin! mud is most reason why ur jeep get more rust faster than normal after wheelin (i learn that lesson from my brother)

*NEVER use standard socket on metric bolt or metric socket on standard bolt... or you will possible have headache.

 

thats what happened to my cluster guages. its all tape wrapped and havent solder so its all corrision and weak as sh*t

 

I havent finish fix it all yet :mad:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In my opinion, keep your MJ as stock as possible. It was built that way, and unless you know it improves reliability, and there are things that can and do do this, question it. My 4 x 2 MJ has 328 thousand on it with a rebuilt 2.5 improved with headers and cam and single in, dual out exhaust, and a stock 4 speed, and it it runs like a champ that passes other cars when they are too slow on the interstate!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just because my 2.5 is getting replaced with 290 doesn't mean it done for, I will be keeping the engine around cause if these truck's jump in value it will be rebuilt and put right back in . . . Everything i'm doing will be removable :cheers:

 

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The most important tip I can think of is: Let no one discourage you from making it into what you think you can. I had people tell me I couldn't put the automatic transmission in place of the manual on my 91' comanche. It is now done and works great. I say whatever you're thinking of doing, if there's a will there's a way. Keep on pushing for your goal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×