CoastieJ Posted October 9, 2005 Share Posted October 9, 2005 Hello all, Newbie here...seriously considering buying an 87 Comanche MJ with a 4.0, 4X4, manual with about 168K miles. The owner says it's rust free with a straight body. Besides the D44 option in the rear, anything else I should look (or look out) for? I know the BA-10 tranny is a weak link, but I could easily swap in a AX-15, maybe with an NP-231 as well. How can I tell whether its a long or short bed (I mean, is it plainly obvious by looking at it?) I can't tell by the pic. My plan is to put about 5" of lift with 33's. Your advice is appreciated. :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Yes. Long vs short is obvious. The long bed is a foot longer. A seven foot bed vs. a 6 foot. You should have a NP 231 already. You would only need to switch to another one if your replacement tranny has a different spline output. Check the clutch master for leakage. Whatever genius desgined it, made it so that when it leaks, and it will. It leaks down on the inside of the cab, and right on to the fuse box. The fuse box will melt and cause ALOT of electrical problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted October 10, 2005 Share Posted October 10, 2005 Mkae sure all the vacum liners look in decent shape. Also check the front end for play. I don't know if the state youlive in does a state inspection, but if it does I would make the dealer get a new one. Also take it to your mechanic, if you don't know what to look for as far as it beiung in bad shape. Patrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 I cannot emphasize enough the importance of actually pulling up the carpet and checking for rust on the floorboards. Water tends to find its way in under the carpet and can't get out. Also, lie down under the truck and especially look at the floorbaords and also up at the inside of the bed sides (i.e. the inside surface of the outer sheetmetal). Rust tends to start there too and it's practically impossible to cover up with new paint. Bring a small magnet along with you and check the rockers etc to see if they are steel and only steel. Check the condition of the exhaust too. Rust there will indicate there is probably more elsewhere. I don't want to scare you from the purchase, but a rust free MJ is worth a heck of a lot more than a rusty one covered with shiny new paint. Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Yes. Long vs short is obvious. The long bed is a foot longer. A seven foot bed vs. a 6 foot. Check the clutch master for leakage. Whatever genius desgined it, made it so that when it leaks, and it will. It leaks down on the inside of the cab, and right on to the fuse box. The fuse box will melt and cause ALOT of electrical problems. The extra foot is between the cab and gas tank filler area. If it's a longbed, you'll see more bed there. Like howey said, it's pretty obvious. And I just discovered my brand-spanking new clutch master (< 15K miles) is leaking :cry: , yesterday when I had to do something in the fusebox area. Check the fusebox area for leaking...you can salvage it if you catch it in time. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 3 MJs and not one of them had a leaky master cylinder. I'm starting to think I was just lucky! :D Actually, it's about 6" added in the front of the bed and 6" to the rear. Jeep on! --Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastieJ Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 Yes. Long vs short is obvious. The long bed is a foot longer. A seven foot bed vs. a 6 foot.. Looks like the one I'm checking out is a long bed. I have always thought the short bed would make a better off-road machine (ideal wheelbase, better departure angles). Anyone have any thoughts on this? Or should I just buy the long bed and plan on chopping of the rear of it :lol: ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Depends on the type of wheeling you do. You don't necessarily have to chop the bed, just build a new rear bumper that tucks up into the body rather than hangs down below. If you build it right, even if you drag it on an obstacle here and there, nothing gets hurt. :D Jeep on! --Pete My shortbed's bumper: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoastieJ Posted October 12, 2005 Author Share Posted October 12, 2005 Well, I'm all set to fly to Seattle and drive my '87 MJ home, make a courtesy call to the dealership only to find out its been sold a couple hours earlier. Real bummer, especially cause it had a D44 rear. Oh well, the search continues... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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