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Absolutely it's uncommon. It requires fabrication, welding, and good knowledge of what you're doing. Not for the feint of heart of you plan on driving on the street. Plus the Dana 30 is a lot stronger than some people give it credit.

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and a lot cheaper as well??

 

I don't plan on going higher them 33's....maybe 35's but that would definately not be in any near future plans, not to mention a D30 is a lot easier to find here( ihave been looking)

 

Would there be a difference in price when trying to regear?

Should I go with just any D30?

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Pete you are absolutely right about the strength of a D30. Especially with later 297 style shafts. I wheel my rig kinda hard :evil: or at least that is what some ppl say :shake:

 

If all you are going to run is 33's then I say find some 297 style u-joints, and run it. You should have zero issues.

 

As for axle prices.. a u-wrench it style of J-yard charges the same for any axle. It doesn't matter if it is a front d60, or a rear d35... they don't care :smart:

 

Regearing an axle is going to cost parts plus labor. It is cheaper to regear a d44 then it is a d60 :dunno: for some reason.. regearing a d44 is cheaper then regearing a d30 also :eek: Labor should be the same, or close to it :brows:

 

 

also not all d30 are created equal. Some are High pinion (pinion above axle center line), some are low pinion, and then there are the vacum disconnect axles. Also from 92 and later in the XJ if it is equipped with ABS it will have 297 u-joints

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The high-pinion was used up to like 99 and is where the Dana 30 gets its strength. Without going too in-depth in the details, the way the gears interact is stronger in a high-pinion front axle than an otherwise identical low-pinion front axle. But it's backwords in the rear, and a low-pinion rear axle is inherently stronger than an otherwise identical high-pinion axle.

 

My low-pinion Ford 9" rear axle

 

My high-pinion Dana 44 front axle

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maybe because of the pull vs. push???? How'd you get your D44 under the front? Was that the same setup I was thinking about doing with the GW????

 

You seem to have all the goody's on your MJ, Now I will definately have to run over there. I'll wait for my buddy Alex to come down, cuz we will want to see it as well

 

why are you running a ford 9 instead of a d44 in the rear??

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I am sure Pete is running the matched Rear axle to the front d44, and I am almost popsitive the came out of the same vehicle :nuts:

 

The advantages are many to the 9" like price, and strength. Also it is cheaper to build a 9" then it is a d44, and I almost want to say there is more aftermarket support also.

 

 

He used what are commonly referred to as full width axles where as the GW axles are not full width.

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"Full-widths" are generally considered anything that comes from a fullsize truck. There are some exceptions and the Grand Wagoneer is one of them. Think of it this way,

fullwidth = tires sticking out way past the fenderflares.

 

It has nothing to do with push-vs-pull, but rather the side of the ring gear teeth that the pinion gear pushes on.

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OIC

 

I like the look, but is the function to reduce the yaw on the jeep when offroading? Am I safe to go with my D44 and D30 from jeeps first then possible look at upgrading later?

 

The good news is I've settled on what to do with the comanche DD, lol. Still not 100% on drivetrain mods I will do. You guys have helped a ton though

 

I just want to say thanks to everyone again, for the help, for teaching and for being patient with me while I'm trying to learn :cheers:

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the function is usually to hang larger tires. a D44/d30 combo is really only good to 33's in stock form, 35's if you get chromo stuff. Then you've got to worry about the ring and pinion being the weak link.

Axles from a 3/4 ton truck however can hold 35's stock, and with some upgrades the sky's the limit. Full width axles generally have bigger brakes that come along with them, and that's something you need when you put 35" tires on.

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