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Found 46 results

  1. The Jeep Gladiator has hit the dealership and I want one, putting out a feeler on my Comanche to see if there is any interest in it. While my goal continues to be to finish the Comanche, if the right person comes along that wants to pick up where I'm at I'll let it go to move on to the next project. I'm sure I'm forgetting 100 things I've done to it, please feel free to ask questions. PM me if you would like my phone # 1991 Comanche. 1998 swap in progress. Truck is now in running and driving condition with the full drivetrain and dash installed. The front axle needs to be re-geared to 4.11 and the front driveshaft installed. While there is still work to be done, the hard parts are all finished. The cab was painted so just the box and front end need to be finished. I have new carpet and headliner ready to be installed. they radio wiring is in the dash but still needs to be run to where the speakers will be. Drivetrain: 1998 4.0 L-6 with 25X,XXXmiles Head gasket done Melling high volume oil pump High flow water pump 2000+intake with new heat shield New exhaust manifold. New radiator and hoses New MOPAR oil pressure switch and pigtail 1998 AW4 Removed oil pan and resealed with new fluid. External Transmission cooler with all new cooler lines installed. 1998 231-J transfer case Slip yoke eliminator installed BG transfer case fluid Tom Woods rear drive shaft. 2000 Explorer 8.8 rea axle Flipped spring over axle - Iron Rock Off-road Disc brakes 4.11 gears. Dana 30 front axle (needs re-geared) Iron Rock Off-road Critical path 6.5" front suspension Steering: JRC Off-road 1 ton UTK Power steering cooler with all new hoses ZJ Pitman arm Fuel: Dakota fuel tank New Dakota fuel pump 5 Wheels and Tires: Tires 33x10.50R15 Dick Cepek Extreme country Bushwacker Flares Interior: 1998 Dash ALL new A/C components Compressor Lines Drier Evaporator Condenser Heater Core Heater hoses New carpet Faux suede covered headliner. Here is a link to my build thread:
  2. I have an 89 automatic base model i6. She is pretty much stock as of now, I'm looking for ideas or suggestions in transitioning to a V8. This is my first project I have ever worked on so needless to say I'm a little green on the subject. I would say my end goal would be a pretty mean off road machine. Thanks for the help! I'm open to any and all suggestions!
  3. after about a year and a half, I'm finally finishing up the 4.0 swap into my fathers 86 Comanche. Being my first engine swap, it never occurred to me to label any of the electrical connectors as I took them all off. I found a home for most of them but I'm a little lost on four of them. Any help identifying them would be greatly appreciated. The first two are located near the battery. I think the large one might be a factory fog light connector. The third one is on the other side of the engine bay near the computer. That one possibly might be a diagnostic port. The last one is on the back firewall near the intake manifold. No clue on that one. Any help would be appreciated.
  4. Let me preface this with some backstory, I picked up an '86 i4, 2wd MJ for $400. It's rough, missing the bed, exhaust is all but gone, floorboards are shot, etc. I have no sentiment towards this Jeep, so I have no problem cutting it up to make this work. Furthermore, I have an opportunity to pickup an ENTIRE power-train (read: motor, trans, xfer) out of a 1980 K10 for FREE + shipping/gas to drive and get it. Were it not for these facts, I would not be even considering this project. Now that that's out of the way... As someone who has never swapped a motor before, what are some things I may not even think to research? How much cutting and firewall massaging am I looking forward to? Will it fit in my engine bay? (I think this is the short '86 that won't fit a 4.0). What are my options for motor/trans mounts? I'm sure there is a lot that goes into this that I haven't even considered, Who has pointers? And yes, I've used the search feature of not just this forum, but Google as well - I've bookmarked dozens of pages for this project.
  5. Well I need some help figuring out how to wire these running lights... I have a 1990 mj that I am about 90% done with a 97 swap just basically buttoning up all the small issues now. I have the drive train and dash with harnesses out of a 2001 xj I left my mj rear harness and have been plugging wires figuring out what goes to what and have narrowed the majority of it all down I have my stop lights reverse lights brake lights and turn signals but for the life of me I can’t seem to figure out how to wire these damn running lights from the 2001 dash harness to the rear mj harness I wish now I would have just ran the xj harness back I feel as if it would have been less headache but yet here I am I know the mj “running lights” are the blue wire on the oval connecter and the br/YL wire coming off the xj dash harness is the equivalent to the xjs running lights but how is it supposed to be wired I tried running it off of the drivers and pass her sides but it just keeps popping fuses I need help! Pics of the truck where it started and where I’m at!
  6. I recently acquired an AX-15 transmission and want to swap out my current BA-10/5 for it. I don't have any donor parts from the original vehicle, so I need to make sure I purchase all the correct components. If I purchase this adapter, I should be able to use the existing x-member and mount, correct? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716007--nv3550--ax15-crossmember-mount-kit-for-jeep-yj-wranglers/ And I know the 4wd shift linkage is different, so I'll need something like this? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/715545--transfer-case-shifter-bracket-jeep-np231/ The X-15 was pulled from a '92 XJ, so I believe I should be ok with the existing hydraulic throwout bearing (I believe '93 and later need the external slave cylinder). I'm placing it in a 1989 MJ, and from what I've read, the later BA-10/5 outputs could be either 21 or 23 spline, so I'm not sure if I need a new input gear for the t-case. Also, is this the correct pilot bearing I would need? http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716164--pilot-bearing-750-id-x-1818-od/
  7. Alright so as the title says, I’m going to discuss how I did my budget LS swap for less than 1000$. This is my first write up I’ve done so please bare with me. I have always made YouTube videos of my builds so I will try and post a link to each video I made pertaining to that portion of the swap. I purchased my 88 comanche for 500$ and drove it home. Was a rust free 2wd 4.0. It ran great but I have a problem with leaving anything stock and going all out. Last year I built a 12v Cummins TJ and had a blast doing it, but this build I wanted to go fuel injection. LS is the only logical choice. I am a 23 year old with a wife, a baby, student loans and a mortgage. Extra money is hard to come by, like I’m sure it is for most of you. I enjoy having cool rigs but don't always have the money that most internet builders seem to have. So I have to get creative and do things for cheap, yet still being professional quality. Enough babbling and on to the swap lol. I'm going to refer to my motor as an LS but it’s really just an old iron block 5.3 LM7. Same thing tho. These motors can be found all over junk yards. They can range from 200-1000$ depending on the person you buy it from. Then you still need to buy a trans and case and harness and computer and all the other goodies. I have found however when doing swaps like this that it is easier and a lot of times cheaper to buy a donor vehicle. And I did just that. I picked up a wrecked 03 Tahoe for 700$. It had front end damaged and a twisted frame. No good for anyone else but a goldmine for me. I got it home and got it fired up. I then had a buddy come over and flash the computer and remove the VATS (vehicle anti theft system).100$ It is important to make sure the motor and everything runs fine before you disassemble it so if somthing isn’t right after the swap it’s easier to narrow down that it was somthing you did and not a Pre-existing issue. Once I verified everything was good I started pulling everything off I could possibly need. I.E. motor, trans, case, harness, ecu, gas pedal and harness (DBW) , both driveshafts, gear selector cable, exhaust, trans cooler, fuel pump, hoses and Ac lines. After I had taken everything I needed off I posted the Tahoe on swip swap pages on Facebook and parted out the rest. I ended up making all my money back from the Tahoe on the left over parts and made a 300$ profit. Now it was time to start getting ready for the swap. The Tahoe came with a 5.3 4l60e and NG(somthing) case. The junk push button kind. I sold the case and bought a 241c transfer case for it. Basically the same case just manual and not electronic. Now this was the time when everyone and their brother started telling me I couldn’t run an LS in a Comanche without the Novak motor mounts. Well, if I did buy them that would mean I would have to buy an LS1/6 intake, water pump and move the Altenator. That’s another 5-800$ I didn’t have to spend, on top of the price of Novak’s mounts and headers. The other option I had was to keep the truck intake but run a cowl hood. I didn’t like either of these options so I decided I would make my own mounts and use the stock manifolds if possible. I purchased universal motor mounts off of eBay for 60$. I was determined at this point to make it work and prove all those internet builders and nay sayers wrong. If I could squeeze a 12v in a tj, this should be a walk in the park! I came across someone who had done this swap before in an XJ and he gave me some pointers on how to do it. The only 2 modification needed to make it fit were to clock the alternator down about 2-3” and run a smaller pulley for the power steering pump and run 1/2” spacers between the pump and the bracket. I will I’ll post a link here on how to modify the stock Alternator bracket. the power steering pulley you will need is dorman P/N 300-130 While the motor was out I went ahead and put a cam and valve springs in it. This is obviously not needed for the swap so I’m not factoring it in to the total cost. But since I had it out I went ahead and did it. I cleaned the motor real well. It surprisingly had no leaks. Now it was time for the harness chop. I spent the next couple of days researching and watching videos on how to convert the harness to a stand alone harness. LT1swaps.com is very helpful and also the videos from YouTube username “youcandoit2”. Watch his videos a few times and then it’s time to pull up your pants and get to work. This was my first big wiring job and was honestly overwhelming. And it stayed overwhelming until I was about balls deep into the harness then it all seemed to make more since. It took me about 8 hours to de-pin and clean the harness of the Unnecessary wires and sensors and wire up the fuse box. I did notice that if you go by the wiring digram from the YouTube videos I mention earlier, his diagram is wrong for the relays. Each pin needs to be moved one space counter clockwise for it to function properly. While I was in the harness I went ahead and did a wire tuck on the harness so you would not see any wires in the engine bay. I ran the wires behind the intake and through the firewall for a nice clean look. About 40$ in relays and fuse box Once the harness was complete it was time to pull the ol 4.0 out and get the engine bay cleaned up. The next weekend I dropped the LS in and started designing the motor mounts and finding the happy medium where the motor was as high up as I could get it with out hitting the hood. I took some measurements before I pulled the 4.0 out to see where the 5.3 sat in relation to it. I was honestly surprised with my findings. I measured the stock springs at ride height with he weight of the motor on them, I measured the distance from the ground to the rear sump of the oil pan and also the the front of the pan over the axle. 4.0 spring was 13” rear sump 12.5” front of pan 19” 5.3 spring 14.5” RS 11.5” FOP 18.5” I will post link here for video on motor mounts here. Once the motor mounts where set and welded in it was time for exhaust. You have to cut the factory collectors off to get them to fit but the stock manifolds will work and fit between the rails. They have also been proven to flow enough air with out any noticeable restrictions up to 900HP so stock manifolds will work just fine. Depending on which motor you end Up getting may determine if you have to modify the driver side manifold tho. The angle is just slightly off on some manifolds and needs to be cut and rewelded to point straight down. These manifolds are cast steel so they are able to be welded to with out any preheat or post heat. Once I had them fitted between the frame rails I welded on V band clamps to them for easy installation and removal. 20$ on eBay. At at this point the motor is in and staying in. Time to start working on wiring . If you wire your harness like I did from his videos mentioned above, you with only have a couple wires to hook up. A constant 12v power wire, an ignition wire, a fuel pump hot wire and the wire for the starter solinoid. Under the dash is a small fuse panel. On that fuse panel there is an empty spot marked “ign.” This spot gets 12v after key is turned on. I cut the orange wire for the fuel pump right before the plug on th fuel pump and ran my fuel pump wire from the harnes to that. The starter solinoid wire goes to the Jeeps starter relay. It is the bottom left pin. Should be labeled “ignition terminal” on the diagrams. I will I’ll post a link for the video I made on wiring it here. At this point I tapped into the Jeeps fuel line and ran fuel hose from the intake to the Jeeps hardlines. About 30$ in hose. I am still running the factory Jeep pump and seems to be doing fine but I’ll eventualy upgrade to a GM fuel pump. If you are still following along I applaud you! I’ve been typing for 2 hours now and I’m getting lost in the timeline of what I did next lol I will continue this write up tomorrow hopefully.
  8. Finally posting my truck after about a year and a half of ownership, I purchased 2 Comanches from a guy in Woodstock, Illinois. One 86 red 2.5, 2wd, dana 35 long bed and one 86 silver 2.8, manual, 4wd, long bed. All I knew about the silver truck was that it supposedly had a wiring/ground issue and was taken apart and prepared to be parted out. They were both purchased for $500, as well as an additional $150 for a stock pile of extra parts. Both trucks had rust on rockers/bed ect., but at 500 for the pair I couldn't say no. They mark the 4th and 5th Jeeps that I've owned at 20 years old, and the MJ is quickly becoming one of my favorite chassis. When purchased the red truck ran and drove but smoked white out of the tailpipe bad, it sat for awhile and i replaced the head gasket and general top end gaskets, including a check on the head, after it was back together it ran better but smoked even more. I sold it on craigslist for $450 after it sat in the driveway for awhile. I purchased a third MJ around 2 months after the first two, I paid $250 for an 89 Pioneer lwb 4.0 4wd with no motor and the trans in the back, floors were rusted but I wanted a specific set of parts for the other truck. The silver Comanche was missing a drivers side floor, no gas tank, no dash, no interior, no steering column, a broken shock mount on the rear bed frame, and a broken leaf spring plate shock mount. The 89 truck had a burgandy interior with bench seat, a column,a long bed camper shell and the general small parts I needed for the other truck. I took a couple of months getting the parts I needed and then cut up the 89 Pioneer and hauled it to the scrap yard. It left me with all the parts I would need and I got to work patching the floor on the truck. An amazon floor pan didn't fit precisely, but I made it work, I put in a brand new grey carpet that matched a flawless grey dash. The burgandy bench seat followed after I had refinished the bench mounts. I wired the necessities into the dash and discovered that signal was going to and from the column with the key but would not start. I rewired the starter relay to a push button start, replaced a broken engine ground strap and the ignition coil, mounted the fuel tank with new straps and it started and ran alright for less than a $1000 invested. After that I installed a 4.5 inch zone lift and put a set of rubicon rims from a jk on that i picked up on craigslist. Redid the headliner too, new radio with new speakers all around, smoker windows waiting to be installed, and a lund visor to top it off. Shes registered, but not insured, driven alright on the road so far except for a scare or two. Just finished up the Ares Fab DIY Front XJ bumper as they're local to me and installed a harbor freight 9,000 pound winch. Hoping to take her on a lot of great adventures this summer and many after that. Pics follow
  9. Hey everyone, I finally decided to create a profile. I've been checking out the MJOTM every now and then but I just decided to create a build thread of my own. I've done a lot of work to my jeep and still have a lot to do. I figure I'll start off with a little backstory, then go through my build from the beginning. I plan on picking at this and updating the thread when I have free time. I'll post whatever pictures I have but unfortunately I didn't take very many. I never think about taking pictures until I'm done something . Anyway I have some long stories. Here's the backstory: It's a Pioneer, 4x4, 4.0L, long bed. I've known this Jeep my whole life as it used to belong to my uncle. My uncle's father (married in uncle) bought it brand new in '87. Now this guy did not baby this truck! It's been rolled over on 2 or 3 occasions and it was used to pull a 5th wheel trailer! My uncle inherited it before I was born (I'm 22 btw) and drove it daily. Luckily my uncle took better care of it and even had it repainted. And it was still in excellent shape. Now when I started driving I started bothering him to sell it to me because I always liked the look of it. I'm not a big fan of trucks, or Jeeps, but Comanche's are different, you just don't see them every day. Here she is the first day I owned it. At ~230xxx km and 95% rust free, 100% stock. This was April 2016. You can skip this paragraph. I got it in the mind of my uncle that I wanted it and he liked the idea of keeping it in the family, he offered it to me for $2500 but then gave it to my cousin's fiance free because she needed a vehicle. This c*nt beat the hell out of it, kept it dirty, and neglected it, I was not pleased. I bugged her every time I saw her that I wanted it. Well, after 3 years she decided to get a newer vehicle. So I offered her $500 for it! She accepted the offer! Glad she didn't know the value! The first thing I did was put on some 31" tires I found for $100. Not long after I had to stash the Comanche away. You see, I was living with my parents, I already owned 2 cars and they were not happy when I brought this home. We have limited parking space so I had to put it away for a few months. Stay tuned as the built really takes off from here.
  10. I've gotten to the point in my 86 2.5 manual to 95 4.0 auto swap, that I need to bolt the tranny in. Being an 86 it doesn't have holes/plugs/studs to mount the crossmember. I'm having a hard time locating it left to right and was wondering if anyone could give me some mesurements. I made a drawing looking for two dimensions and if it's mirrored on the other side. Any help would be apreciated.
  11. Hey peoples, I decided to start the build thread for my comanche. I got my comanche and a parts cherokee for a 2003 yamaha big bear 400 4x4 I had built up. This is my first real 4x4 vehicle and the build plan is a daily driver/weekend warrior My build guidelines are to the rules of the 4wheel and offroad Ultimate adventure (found here {under vehicle/driver requirements}:http://www.fourwheeler.com/ultimate-adventure/2017/ultimate-adventure-application/ ) - Cage, lockers front and rear, steering upgrades, 35s or 37s, gears and other stuff Enough of the non-sense and time for the specs on the Comanche and the actual thread I have what I believe to be a base model of a 1988 Jeep Comanche. It has a 2.5l tbi 4banger, ax4 manual transmission (that needs a new slave cyclinder) , and its 2wd. the bench seat is ripped and there are holes in the driver side floor pan, other than that it seems to be in decent condition This what she looked like when I got her pictures......... The plans for right now is to pull the ax4 2wd and swap in an ax15 4x4 transmission, find a 8.25 or 8.8 rear end, fix the floor pan, swap the bench to bucket seats, swap the gauge cluster, swap the steering wheel, and some other goodies. The comanche that I love/inspiration: Zone Offroad Ultimate Adventure Rig
  12. I will finish up the sanding on the body and put on the black doors from the XJ and then I will no longer be able to work on the truck. I started the project in 2015 and then left home for two years, now that I'm home and don't have my own transportation I need to get a car quick to start school. If you search for the "Hawaii Jeeps" you should see most of my build process with this truck. The XJ had 118,000 miles on it, the MJ had 130,000 miles on it. As of right now, it is an empty shell with half of the 2000 XJ body panels on it (I will put the doors on as soon as the new lock pins come in the mail). I am currently sanding down the paint on the comanche panels that was done by the previous owner. I won't paint it since that will allow the buyer to paint it whatever color you would like. I found all the primer, base coat, and clear coat needed here in town priced at $350-$600 depending on the color of the base. I was planning to paint it Silverstone (Late model Cherokee Grey) or Mystic Gold Metallic, (a factory Tacoma color). I have all the Agate interior from the XJ including seats, which are all in great shape. The driver seat has a spot that was rubbed down in the fabric on the left side. I also have brand new extra padded carpet that is charcoal/dark grey colored. I have speakers, wiring, and a small amp for the sound system, (the speakers are brand new Kenwoods). Also I have a role of tint (I believe it's 5%). The original MJ interior panels can be painted Agate to match the XJ vinyl. I bagged up the nuts and bolts for the whole truck and wrote where they went with sharpie. The drive train: 2000 XJ 4.0 litre l6. I have new moog motor mounts, transmission mount, Felpro rear main seal, and Felpro engine gasket set. The transmission is automatic, the transfer case is a Np231 with advance adapters slip yoke eliminator installed professionally. The biggest things that are left on the to-do list include: Fabricate new seat mounts for XJ seats Fabricate or find firewall mounts for gas and brake pedals and get new pedals New front axle (there is only a 2wd axle with no differential in front) Gas tank modifications + fuel pump New paint job If you have any questions or if I left out any important details just let me know. I have a lot invested in the truck and I am asking $3,200 for the whole project. I don't think I can finish it but I would really like to see someone else make it happen. Here are pictures as of now:
  13. Recently purchased an 88 MJ Pioneer w 315k. Body is sweet, very unique color. My bud owns a Shell station and far handier than I on big stuff. Want to swap motor for junkyard 4.0 w less miles. What should i be budgeting for this? Really have no idea.
  14. I'm getting ready to retire the 2.8 liter so called engine to a 3.4 and while doing my research some forums say to turn down your flywheel and neutral balance it or there's say to get a 88 or newer already neutral balanced flywheel. Anyone tried either one????
  15. Hey everybody, my name is Dan, and this is my first post. I've been lurking a while now and I have to say, this is one of the best forums I've ever come across. The vast amounts of information and inspiration are very helpful to new owners. And there is a shocking abscence of bickering, oversensitivity and internet tough guys that seem all too common on other forums. With that said, it's about damn time to start talkn bout Comanches... I've had my eye on getting a Comanche for a couple years. Started seriously looking last January, had a few slip through my fingers, but finally got one in March. Got lucky and found an 87 SWB 2wd 5spd with just under 130k and completely stock. Picked it up for $1800. ;) It had some water leaks(carpet was wet) and needed tires. When I went to leave after sealing the deal, the starter stopped working. So the seller gave me back $60 for a new starter. So for the next day I had to give the starter some love taps to get her going. Turned out to be a loose signal wire. Score! Also, I forgot how much I like driving midsize trucks with a manual trans. Here she is a few days after I bought her: Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics before I started wrenching on it.. Was just really excited. I installed a tool box that I had on a couple other trucks and bought those wheels/tires on craigslist. $70 with pretty worn BFG A/Ts. But they weren't dry rotted like the tires that came on the truck, so that's something.
  16. ok guys i need some help on deciding how I'm going to proceed with my swap. i have a 87 Jeep Comanche, I6 2wd 5spd stick. i also have a 96 jeep cherokee I6 4x4 Auto trans. I'm wanting to take these 2 and make my Comanche 4x4 with the auto trans, but I'm not quite sure how to do it. I'm doing this because my cherokee rusting out and has a salvage title and on its last leg, the comanche has perfect body and clean title Option one: lots of work, i swap the whole engine transmission t case and ALL the electronics ( harnesses computers dash ect) out of my cherokee into the comanche. this is allot of work and I'm a lil uncomfortable doing that because ive never done it and fear that ill screw it up. the other reason I'm leaning away from this is there is sighs of rigging in the electrical of the charokee before i owned it and i don't want to put bad electrical in, Option two: i take just the Auto trans and tcase and mate them to the engine in the comanche. if i do this i know i need a flex plate that matches my torque converter. But then i have to find some way to wire the auto trans up which i don't know how to do. any tips info or right ups on wiring a auto trans into a Manuel comanche or cherokee? all the help would be much appreciated!!
  17. Anyone know how hard swapping in cruise control to a non-cruise truck would be? Found a great donor at the jy and need at act quickly. Mine: 92, 4.0, 4x4, 5sp Donor: 92, 4.0, 2wd, Auto
  18. ​I just recently completed swapping out my old 4.0L with a 4.6L Stroker from ATK and I could not be more happy with the results. Prior to purchasing the Engine, I pinged the forums and probed the interwebs for a reputable reman company... all I found were bad reviews and horror stories... It made me feel uneasy but I went with ATK anyway. I figured I would post my experience. Prior to the Swap I had a 1987 4.0L with about 160K on it. The engine was still firing up and running but I felt it was time for a swap. ​The price was / is awesome. I paid 2900 for the stroker. It did not come with a valve cover but all of the gaskets were included. For the swap I also decided to put it a higher flow water pump, a new starter, plugs , wires, CPS, Thermostat, and a flex plate. Once the parts arrived I dropped the manche off at the shop and waiting for the motor to go in. I am told the install was simple... fit as expected ... no issues. HOWEVER.... as soon as the mechanic fired up the engine ... she leaked oil like a bastard! To be sure it was not the oil pan... I put a new oil pan in and replaced the gasket and sure enough it still leaked..... It was obvious it was the Rear Main Seal but we wanted to be sure.... I called ATK prior to authorizing work... and a little up set I explained the situation. Sight Unseen ATK authorized the mechanic to fix the problem and paid for both the parts and the labor. It took a few weeks for the check to finally arrive but never the less it did. It is worth noting that it if you purchase from autozone, the labor is covered by their warranty .... and the parts are paid for by ATK. Now not to throw any stones but the mechanic said the RMS was installed backwards :doh:​ With that said the RMS was replaced and the engine fired up with no leaks!... BUUUUUUT It was running sluggish.... I panicked thinking the engine was truly a dud and I would join the few folks on the internet in bashing ATK... but it turns out I did not upgrade the injectors to 24psi ( which most stroker forums recommend) .. ATK states that it can use the stock stuff... but it just does not run right. I also bought an adjustable fuel pressure regulator as well to dial in the power... it was not necessary but it helps. After all this... the MANCHE is more powerful than ever and runs very strong.. While I was a little disappointed with the quality control of ATK, they came through immediately with a fix.. at no cost to me. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions... I hope this helps some folks on the fence about REMANS...
  19. Okay so I'm going out on a limb on this project. I know its been done in YJ's and TJ's but ive never seen them in an MJ (or XJ for that matter). What I'm wanting to do is swap a 5.2L Magnum out of a 1999 Dodge Durango into my 1991 Jeep Comanche with a 4.0L, AX15, and NP231. I have the chance to buy this donor for $500. Its a 1999 Dodge Durango with a 5.2L, 44RE, and NP242(if i had to guess). As far as getting this motor to fit, that shouldnt be a problem, but the wiring harness and computer will be a different story. Is there anybody out there that can give a little advice on this swap? And if anybody wants to put their negative comments about "thats a waste of time" or "just drop a chevy 350 in it", i don't want to hear it. Hopefully someone can help me here
  20. Where in the axle tube up and down should the shock mounts be? Do I weld them on when the trucks weight is On the axle ? How extended should the shock be? Thanks. I'm SOA and I have bilsteins and the ruff stuff simple swap shock mounts
  21. That says about it. I don't have a floor lift, or chests of tools, but have basics to get back into it('88 Olympics, '90) Have tires and some $$ for a decent driver.
  22. I am looking for a 3/4 or full guage cluster for my 1989 MJ with the 4.0L and automatic transmission. Let me know what you have and price shipped to 72687. Thanks.
  23. Looking to change my 5 speed to an automatic, I'm thinking the AW4 will work. Has anyone swapped these, I know a lot of swaps go from automatic to manual, I've had so many issues with the internal slave that I've decided to go with an automatic. Thanks and love this site!!!
  24. Hey Everyone, I want to first thank everyone on answering some of the previous questions on my past post here. I got a cluster out of a 1994 XJ 6 cylinder. I wanted to swap it into my 1991 MJ 4 cylinder. I did search online about the swap and i saw that very early clusters can be dropped in as those use speedometer cables instead of a speed sensor in the transmission. I want to get rid of the idiot lights cluster. Can this 1994 be dropped in it? Or any mods to make the tach work are needed? I already sort out the sensors for it. Any inputs would be very welcome. Thanks again! Regards
  25. Hello friends. Jess here from Placerville, CA. I've been lurking around here for several years and have been so grateful to have such a fantastic resource. You guys rock! I can only hope to one day return the favor and give useful advice to someone in need. I don't have the technical knowledge many of you have and this certainly won't be the end-all AX15 swap thread but I figured I share my experience and if it helped someone out, awesome! First of all, there is a lot of posts about the AX15 - If you can't find what you need here on CC there is a lot of other AX15 swap threads out there, I found this thread on naxja particularly useful. I also picked up a FSM from Pacific Coast Manuals. Best $7.95 I think I could have spent, especially when it came to finding torque specs. Another good resource for parts if you're in the Sacramento area is J&W Auto Wreckers - I find their prices are a tad on the high side (basically double of most Pick & Pull parts) but they appear to have pretty much everything, including the AX15 bracket which was difficult to find and you don't have to bring your tools and roll around in broken glass. So, I have a 1989 MJ which of course had a Peugeot BA10/5 with the NP231. The internal bearings went and my second gear synchros have been out since I got the truck 6-7 years ago. The repair shop (I tried several, price always the same) wanted $850 to repair the bearings/synchros. I've always wanted to swap for an AX15 but never really had a reason until now. I found one out of a 91 Cherokee with 150k miles in a wrecking yard for $500 with the bellhousing and another $200 for the factory mated NP231. I probably could have swapped the input shaft for a little less, but honestly it was taking so long already I figured it was worth it to get the new one and go. Dropping the Trans: Having the right tools for the job would have made this much easier. Unfortunately we had none of those. If you don't either, I'd recommend renting or borrowing a transmission jack. It was always my plan to do that but my Dad and I backyard mechanic'd it pretty good instead. Our jack died recently, so we borrowed a neighbors which is hilariously tiny for removing a transmission. We used it pretty much for the wheels only. What we did was place a strong steel pipe above the trans tunnel/shifter hole and wrapped a large ratchet strap around the pipe and transmission. This supported it and allowed us to guide the transmission back out of the pilot bearing. Another thing that helps which we didn't have is level ground. Our driveway has a slant to it so we decided to park the truck facing down, which meant pulling the transmission uphill to remove it. I attached a strap from the jack to the rear bumper and a second from the t-case to the bumper, ratcheting both at the same time to back the trans out. It would have worked beautifully except we forgot one of those small bolts at the top of the bellhousing :( Once we got that it it popped right out, go figure. :dunno: We basically used the same strategy to reinstall the AX15, we took the t-case off and used two straps from that same pipe to raise the AX15 up and guide it in. It's not a perfect alignment, there's definitely some precarious finagling but it worked. Yep, zipties. A third strap was added to the axle of the jack to pull it and the trans back simultaneously. Bracket/Mount: My biggest unknown was the mount vs bracket. As I mentioned above I found the "bracket" to be rather elusive. I read several posts where people said they used the Peugeot crossmember with the AX15 mount and it was fine - but since the AX15 mount lacks the catalytic converter support arm I wasn't really sure how that was possible without fabrication work which I don't have the tools to do. If you cannot find the bracket or fab your own, you might try this AX15 Crossmember Mount Kit from Advance Adapters. They told me it would work fine in Comanches but considering the cost difference between having to replace the Peugeot mount vs AX15 mount I decided to try harder to find the bracket. Which I did find for $30 at J&W Auto Wreckers. Top left: AX15 "mount". Bottom left: AX15 support bracket. Right: Peugeot mount. Crossmember: To save myself $70 for an AX15 crossmember I used my original Peugeot one. Since the AX15 has that little dip in it I decided to get some longer bolts and use heavy nuts as spacers to allow the AX15 to sit properly. The crossmember had to be moved to the rear set of holes on the body, which meant taking a sawzall to one of the studs as I couldn't get it out with the other tools I had. Some of the original holes threaded fine, but three of them needed to be chased (10x1.5). Here you can see the nut spacers and new bolts. Transfer Case Linkage: I read several posts where people said you can flip the bracket which bolts to the transmission and make the Peugeot linkage work with the AX15. We popped it out and flipped it, the problem was by flipping it I took it to mean - removing it and plugging it into the same hole from the reverse side. We couldn't make that work at all. So we tried flipping it the other way, plugging it into the smaller hole on the other side of the bracket and bolting the grommet side to the transmission. After some finessing I was able to get it to work - it probably won't last forever but you know, it was free. Reverse Switch: I just cut the connectors off both the AX15 end and the Peugeot end and used quick disconnect connectors. I was out of shrink tube so I wrapped it all up in electrical tape. While I was at it: I had an oil leak so I changed the oil pan gasket, which thanks to advice on a thread I posted it was easy to remove the oil pan without the transmission in. I went ahead and replace the rear main oil seal and the oil pump as well. Conclusion: So glad it's done and I love this thing. I love the way the shifter feels and I think it's a lot quieter. Also huge bonus, I can use second gear lol. I'm so used to having to baby second gear that I still flinch when I shift, anticipating gears grinding. It's not all perfect though - there is an oil leak someplace. It seems to be coming from inside the bellhousing which is making me think the seal on the transmission is bad. I used Mobil-1 10w30 in the AX15 per some recommendations so I can't tell the difference between it and engine oil. It could also be the rear main seal which would also totally suck because that was a huge pain to change. Reverse gear is being a pain to shift into as well, we may need to bleed the clutch again, or something could be going on - I dunno. Right now I'm just happy it's running :yes: Jess
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