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Red Rocker79

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About Red Rocker79

  • Rank
    MJ Junkie

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Leesburg, FL
  • Interests
    Working on Jeeps, vidya gaming, working, and writing.

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  1. Thanks for the help guys; It'll give me an excuse to hit up a P&P when I'm on the Tampa Bay this weekend. :thumbsup:
  2. Been a while since I needed something tech related answered, but this has me stumped. A while back, I went through the effort of fixing the horizontal release cables on my girlfriend's XJ; it seems that her hinges have been replaced by a PO at some point, because her hood opens and closes smooth as silk. Mine used to be the same, but now the hood sits upwards on the driver side when closed. Over the last year or so, the hood seemed like it started to get heavier, like the hinge on the driver side cracked, amd over time, it started to contact the corner of the cowl until one day it finally snatched it and broke the whole thing into 3-4 pieces. Where it mounts on the firewall, there's visible flexing when the hood is raised and lowered, so I'm leaning towards the idea that the hinge rusted out. Problem is, I can't seem to find any new replacements for these. Am I going to have to snag some off of a newer XJ to fix this, or is there something blatant I'm missing here? :hmm: I mean, I have been thinking about putting gas shocks under there... But... You know. OE fit and function and all that. I read another thread someone started about having the same problem, and corrected it by lubricating the hinge; I've done this before but to no real noticeable difference in operation. :dunno:
  3. Wew lads; seems I've got a lot of work to do along with many others. It's so nice living in the digital age...
  4. Went ahead and checked the terminals. No issues there; terminals are pretty spotless and tight. HOWEVER. Upon further inspection, I did find that the smaller 8ga(?) wire coming off the + terminal to the fusible link area was broken at the tip where it connects and supplies power to all the fusible links. Just goes to show that you should always double check yourself. Happened to look at the fusible link area and noticed the aforementioned wire sitting there next to the links, not onto it like it should be. Felt a little silly, but at least it was an easy fix. : :doh: :laughin:
  5. Well, had a weird issue come up. Went to go down to the parts store to grab some things for my Firechicken, and my truck just pretty much died on me. Got inside and went to turn it over, started cranking okay, then I stopped for a second to take a phone call. Went to cranking it back over after about a 5-6 second pause, then everything dies. Cranked over once, now I have no power, no lights, nothing seems to work. Thought I might have blown a fuse, but all check out okay. Went to check the fusible links up front and all seem alright. First time the truck has done this, and I recently just put ANOTHER starter in it not 3 weeks ago. Been driving fine, running fine, no real issues other than a prolonged crank time before I replaced the starter. Unfortunately, all my tools are at the shop, so I'm limited with how far into this I can diag with it sitting in the parking lot outside my apartment. Anyone have any ideas of what could be the culprit here? I've a feeling it could be something shorted out, or that the main computer finally gave up the ghost. Never seen something like this happen before with these older trucks that didn't have some obvious cause, IE: shorted wire, blown fuse, relay, etc.
  6. Doing a good thing, amigo. :cheers: :wrench:
  7. Going to use this thread as a dumping ground for any and all graphics I happen to make, Jeep related or not. Throwing up some Pontiac related ones I put up in my build thread for the Trans Am. Hurf durf. For those of you savvy enough to remember Monroe's ads from the 70s / early 80s
  8. Funny you say that.... I actually broke the tabs off of the driver's side one trying to get it out. I really don't know how they expect you to get them off without taking the entire fender off to get to them. Luckily I had a few laying around that came with the car. Unluckily, the 82-84 ducts are completely different than the 85+; so I guess I can thank GM for great hindsight. I was eyeing a Z-28 a long time ago that a friend of mine had in H.S; luckily I didn't get too attached to it like I did with the Firebird though. :yes:
  9. Ah. The PCM is silver box, yes? Always got those two confused.
  10. Big yellow box should be your PCM (powertrain control module); not too keen on the exposed wire coming into it off that red, 6ga(?) wire. Seems like someone was fiddling with it at some point. You've got a clean truck there, friend! :cheers:
  11. Over a full year later; as it currently stands. New meats, new parts to replace what got bumped in the minor fender bender all that time ago. Snagged a cool Classic tag as well a few months back. Just an ad I whipped up in some spare time a few months back as well. Wanted to capture the classic AMC vibe somewhat. As he currently stands, still truckin' and still kickin'. Going under the knife here in a month or so for a new front end freshen up with suspension and gearbox related parts. Still the best 4 letter word on wheels by far. :yes:
  12. Who doesn't love an amish woman with good taste in cars? :brows: :laughin:
  13. Went through most of the initial concerns of cleaning up the car and getting it moved over to the other unit. Found a bunch of parts and the like laying around in and around the car. First order of business was to check what was wrong, and get it going to check out the vitals of the engine and the like. Took the AC-Delco battery out and brought it up to the shop for a slow charge; brought it back and threw it inside with a gallon or two of gas in a direct feed to the carburetor. Also went and changed the oil in it, as well as the coolant for some fresh stuff. Sure enough, got it to fire up and ran it for a bit. Had the usual issues of a car that hasn't started in forever with smoking a little, and running a bit rough. Smoothed out.... somewhat, although it wasn't what I'd call a "lean, mean 350". Another issue I ran into (that I'm still getting around to working out) is that the battery will drain down after a few days of starting, as evidenced by this video. Still need to do a parasitic draw test to verify what's causing the drain, but I'll get to sorting that out in time. :crossfingers: Decided to go with getting myself another set of wheels, because if you've ever seen these cars, E V E R Y O N E has the polished aluminum 16s. I very rarely see anyone stick with the factory sized 15's and when they do, it's only a temporary thing. :no: My first problem with the performance 245/50/16s is that they're expensive to replace, and you can no longer get any sort of "Gatorback" tread like the old Goodyears used to have. Not to mention the fact the front rims are different offsets than the rear, so a simple tire rotation is a big headache (unless you go side to side, which I don't like). So needless to say, they aren't the tires / rims for me. Besides, I rather like the 15" rims offered by Pontiac, because they're infinitely more aesthetic than the offset 16s. I talked to the P.O about it, and he dug out some OE turbined 15's for me. Not completely unlike the KITT "bowling ball" style rims (see picture below) but another similar type Pontiac made for a few years before they switched to the stamped cross-hatch style for the 15's they'd later use (second picture below) A free afternoon with a spray bottle of Simple green later, and.... Got to thinking that since I had three good rims and one $#!& spray-painted fourth, I'd just paint all 4 in a flat-black with clear. Here's one I did a test on mounted up on a 255/60 Cooper Cobra just to see if I'd like the look or not. Well, was set on the tires, but not on the look, so I got creative and further painted it to test some theories. First, with gold accents on every other spoke. The OE style for this kind of rim was polished silver aluminum, or gold inserts on polished aluminum. Since I the car is gold on black, I figured that if I couldn't get OE gold brushed aluminum wheels, I'd go with this. But I didn't like it and kept testing. Now with silver lip. Although after I got to this point, I did 2 more like this, needless to say. However, after I did 2 complete ones, I thought about the fact it looked gaudy, and I also didn't like that the gold didn't match. Since I couldn't source a paint close enough to the "bronzed metallic gold" the car had unless I ponied up for some duplicate paint to be made, I decided to paint them all bright silver with four coats of clear. Shiny. Now with ratty old 215/65 Michelin Harmony's on board. Better rollers than the dry-rotted 16's, anyway. Found a set of hubcaps in the back, so I threw 'em on the two fronts that are currently on the car. As far as tires go, I wanted to run 235/60's, but the only decent ones I could find were of the Cooper Cobra variety. I settled on those for a while, and then thought about going back to the OE tire size of 215/65/15. Of course, being an oddball 15" size, there weren't a lot of choices out there on the market. I can still pick up a set of Cobra's, although I've been leaning more towards a Firestone or a different Cooper tire altogether. :hmm: Ideally, I'm wanting a US made tire, but those are getting hard to come by (sadly). In the end, I'm not sure what it'll have on it; I'd get BFG's, but can't justify their $136 a piece price verses $90 or so for a Cobra or Trendsetter. Another big problem is the fact I want it to be a factory looking tire (tread design), so the Cobra's are out, and Goodyear no longer makes a "Gatorback" looking tire in a 15" size. SO, the number one choice right now is this beaut. Put enough of these on cars for the last few years, and although they're slowly going out of production, they're dependable enough for what I want to do with the car itself. Not a bad looking tire, IMO, and a decent price to boot. I've searched high and low online and in person at other places, and it's generally come down to this, or a house brand Firestone tire itself (because for whatever reason, FS doesn't make the Firehawk Indy 500 tires anymore). :fs1: - - - - - - - - - - Moving along... I got bored one night and took a picture of every decal I could find on the car, including the build sheet and door jamb stickers. Been going through and making repo-decals like I did for a lot of the MJ stuff on here. Just to put out a few; I think I did alright, considering what I had to work with. Now, for those of you savvy enough to gaze through the build sheet, you'll see that the car sports a "WY6" production code. As I'm sure some of you know who've owned or seen these and the fourth generation of Firebird advertised, there was a performance package you could order for these, being the "WS6". Although this badge is off of a 90s era WS6, it still basically has all the same goodies they've used since the early 80s, albeit, updated. The 80s variants had no such badging, other than the RPO codes on the build sheet to indicate it's a WS6 variant. Since mine is a WY6, what that means is that it has all of the WS6 handling and performance options except for the limited-slip rear end. As the story goes, during '83-early '85(?); the WS6 package was a very sought after thing, and if you had a Trans Am with the WS6 package, you were basically, in no uncertain terms, pretty hot $#!&. Now, there were other packages, like the WY6 and the like, that had pieces of the WS6 package except for certain crucial things. I've read that there was a shortage of limited-slip units for the rear ends at one point, so certain cars would be deemed WY6, or WS5 (WS5 being a discount RPO for the WS6 and Y6 packages). So, with all this being said, the car itself is quite capable with the factory options on it. Although I doubt it'll see a lot of action once it's up and running fully again. Time will undoubtedly tell though. I've still many decals to make for this thing to get it to where I'd like it, appearance wise. Might even make a WY6 decal to put on it somewhere, although it might be a bit tacky. :dunno: I mean, you know, unless I decide to go all out and do something wild with this thing. Like, turn it into it's ultimate point of existence and creation purpose.... :brows:
  14. Red Rocker79

    Proto tools

    Proto is pretty good. Have limited experience with their tools though; mostly from some of the guys I've worked with in the past that had a few ratches and the like made by them. Seem pretty good for what they are. I'll say this; good USA made stuff is getting hard to find. I don't mind using whatever it takes to do a job, but I like to buy USA when I can to support the hard working folks who make them here in the 'states. Speaking of which, I recommend checking out RTR's (realtoolreviews) youtube channel for the occasional cool thing he reviews. Made some good purchases from some of the stuff he's done (currently setting some dough aside for more Aircat tools and a set of Proto's ASD ratcheting wrenches).
  15. That's not from the guy that did that clean white one that got posted a few years back on here, it is? Can't remember if it had a newer front end on it, but I distinctly remember it being very well fabbed together.
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