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Tex06

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About Tex06

  • Rank
    Comanche Addict

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  • Location
    NOLA
  • Interests
    Turning wrenches and busting knuckles.

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  1. -Buy the slave/master pre-bled set new off Amazon or Rockauto....don't try to use junkyard parts (ask me how I know). -AX15 isn't hard to get, they can be found in junkyards for about $350 if they pull and send to you....or you can go to a pick and pull and possibly spend 2 hours on your back pulling a nasty greasy tranny and save $150-$200 -Wherever you get the tranny, snag the crossmember with it. -Rubber mount. They're cheap and don't transmit vibrations like solid or poly will. You can always "upgrade" later if you so desire but for daily use rubber is best. -Yeah, veri
  2. Not that I'm aware of. I didn't have cruise in my MJ originally and adding it was simply buying a GM stalk and pulling a cruise actuator from an XJ. Stupid simple install, took almost 15 minutes the first time (took about 3 hours the second b/c I decided to run the wire from the stalk down the column, which is a PITA...but it looks factory.)
  3. Hell no. I've got 2 spare sets. One good, and one meh. Plan to eventually redo the meh set....if they don't turn out well, I'll put the good ones on after the repaint.
  4. I may have a spare 91-92 manual computer in my parts pile. If you're interested I can dig thru and see if I can find it. It would have come from an XJ but they're interchangeable.
  5. x2 on using a Harbor Freight body shim set. https://www.harborfreight.com/144-piece-body-shim-assortment-67585.html Or look on Amazon for something similar.
  6. There's currently 3 I saw on fleabay.....1 drivers for $170, 1 passenger for $180, and another driver in really nice shape for $350.
  7. x2 on eBay. Expect to pay somewhere around $200/side for good quality tails.
  8. Yeah, I agree. That's why I point people in the direction of research instead of just saying "Trust me, I'm an engineer!"
  9. Not true. Depending on the manufacturer depends on if and how much sulphur/phosphorus is used (which is what attacks "yellow metals" such as brass, copper, and bronze). There are brands of GL-5 that meet the wear spec without the use of sulphur, Pennzoil is one of them. I believe the spec you want is GL-5/MT-1, with MT-1 distinguishing that it is yellow metal safe. I've run this for nearly 7 years with no ill effects as have many many others. For information on this, look at the independent testing done and recorded on bobistheoilguy.com where they break down gear oils that are yellow met
  10. Good work on the transmission. 1st time I did my AX-15 I put the reverse gear in backwards I've seen the Chevelle, is your 'Vette yellow or white? There's one of each early C3 around that area, I forget how to differentiate pre-'73 Vette's from each other.
  11. X2 for redline, it's great stuff I use in my high end vehicles(the MJ doesn't fall in that category, lol). I use Pennzoil GL-5 in my AX-15 now. I ***DO NOT*** recommend running a motor oil in the AX-15. I did for about 3000 miles and recorded much higher transmission temps while doing so as compared to the GL-3 (or whatever was in there previously) and the Pennzoil GL-5 immediately after. Higher temps mean more friction, more friction means more wear happening. My $0.02
  12. This is part of why I got a camper shell that locks.
  13. If you haven't seen or heard of Leo Moracchioli yet, this guy does great metal covers of all kinds of music. Very talented guy and pretty high quality music videos. (929) I Was Made for LovinĀ“ You (metal cover by Leo Moracchioli) - YouTube
  14. Ok, that tracks. Cool little backwoods type repair....you know what they say: "If it's stupid but works, it ain't stupid". I'll have to file that one back in the cool tips and tricks folder in my head.
  15. Typlically when the sag is noticeably different on one side from the other or when you have broken leafs.
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