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About PFCLeist

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    Comanche Addict

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    Elizabeth City, NC

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  1. Mustang 24 lbs injectors I've been running for a little while now, much longer than when these issues came up.
  2. Yeah, your right. Or an injector is held open during start. I ran a 9 volt through each injector while the rail was off to make sure it sprayed and didn't get stuck, and still worked perfectly. It's a rough start, too, vibrates like hell. Then it just magically fixes itself, haha.
  3. FPR vacuum line is dry, nor does it smell like fuel. I pulled the rail with injectors attached, turned fuel pump on, and none are leaking at all.
  4. Started at 38 PSI, waited 30 minutes, read 20 PSI. Pump off for the test. Bad injector?
  5. Roger, next chance I get. I guess that would localize an injector leaking into the cylinder?
  6. In 5 minutes with the pump off it drops to about 39 psi
  7. I didn't know this, thanks. Next time it gives me issues, I'll try this and see if it alleviates it.
  8. That must be what I'm thinking of, then. I have a 99 NP231, and never heard of an onboard pump. I learned something today, thanks.
  9. I'm pretty certain the transfer case is a gear bath, not a pump, just like a manual transmission and differentials. No need to remove shafts. Your thinking of an automatic transmission, which does have oil pumps.
  10. Not exactly. Like this: -starts and runs fine from cold, no matter how long you run it. -next start when hot, is too rich and stumbles, but give it some gas and in 10 seconds it corrects itself and runs fine I'm unfamiliar with the "flood clear" method, what do I do? Didn't think a fuel injection system could flood like that
  11. Checked injectors, no leaks I can see or smell. Pressure at rail is correct, about 40 psi with the engine off. I'd think it wouldn't correct itself if it were leaking or low pressure, fuel delivery is good. As for the CPS, I've had no crank conditions on a heat soaked CPS, back when it was RENIX. It would just crank and crank, until it cooled enough to actually start. This starts every time, and with slight pressure on the gas pedal, stays on. Then after about 10 seconds, you can release the skinny pedal and it runs perfectly.
  12. I'd say yes, everything in a manual drive line (except the engine) has a gear bath, so it should be fine.
  13. This issue just started a few days ago. After the truck has been running awhile, and shut it off, if you turn it back on it will run incredibly rich, stumble and then die. BUT, after 10 seconds of that, giving a bit of gas, it runs perfectly smooth and fine. Truck details in my signature, and NO major changes or mods lately to have caused it. I thought at first it was vapor lock, so I got a heat shield kit for it. Also checked the fuel rail valve for liquid gas when the problem would happen. It's not vapor lock. All sensors are brand new due to the obd1 conversion I did over a year ago. Ran great until a few days ago. Ideas? Thanks. The heat shield I installed:
  14. This is so damn cool, they all look like illustrated drawings too. Effort went into making these.
  15. They haven't released numbers yet, but I'd venture to guess several hundred pounds lower. The Rubicon as it stands now tows 7000, I'd imagine with the diesel itd be 6k or even less, like the Overland. A diesel overland would probably put it in the 5k category. Not ideal, especially for the diesel premium pricing.
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