Jump to content

PFCLeist

Members
  • Content Count

    924
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

About PFCLeist

  • Rank
    Comanche Addict

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Elizabeth City, NC

Recent Profile Visitors

1111 profile views
  1. The injectors were recently taken off by me, and cleaned with pressurized sea foam and a 9 volt battery. They all work perfectly. I believe the TB bore size is 62mm. The O2 is new, replaced when I did the obd1 conversion, don’t remember the brand, about $70. That is a good idea on the adjustable map sensor, if that’s enough for a stroker guy to run an engine right, it ought to be enough for some stock mods. I’m also going to inquire about a tune, but chances are that it will be more money than it’s worth. Might even pull the valve cover off to make absolute sure I don’t have a sticking valve or cracked rocker. Thanks guys.
  2. I’ve done some performance mods to my 98 high output 4.0 running a 93 obd1 wiring harness. The throttle body is bored, it has the horseshoe intake, volvo 4 port injectors, banks header with a zj cross pipe, newish catalytic converter, and high flow muffler. For mostly stock parts shes a torquey girl, but I’ve got some weird characteristics. She seems to lose power briefly when hitting the throttle hard at about 2-3k rpm. And she backfires on occasion when either engine braking or shifting (ax15), sometimes a “rumbling” backfire. These computers are adaptable, but maybe a tune is in order? Fuel rail reads correct pressure and no check engine. Maybe it just can’t supply enough fuel to the rail, causing a lean condition. Thing is, I would think the check engine light would show up due to a bad O2 reading. Thoughts?
  3. I just did an OBD1 conversion on my MJ from a 93 XJ. I'd say the biggest change is the flywheel, be prepared to drop that transmission. It's easy work, but still a pain. Be sure to buy the shorter gear for the speedo as the electronic speedo pickup uses a different length. You've also got to weld on the bracket under the dash for the brake light switch to contact the pedal. I assume you have an adapted HO engine in your truck, otherwise there are a few engine sensors that won't work, such as the TPS and coolant temp/ air temp. Other than these things, it's a pretty straight forward swap. I'd also love to get my hands on that 92 fuel sender if you change your mind! haha
  4. It's a luck of the draw often times, too. My buddy has an 08 Tacoma 4.0 v6 with 130,000 very well looked after miles with a rod about to throw. Shortly after replacing faulty factory driveshaft U-joints. I like my Japanese cars, some of the best made in the modern world, but I think he just got unlucky.
  5. Reviving this old thread yet again. I need stock length rear shocks, I've looked these part numbers up and can't for the life of me find actual extended and compressed dimensions. Is there a bilstein shock for stock rears in our MJs?
  6. I'm having the same issue with the front of the JCR sliders being pushed out pretty far compared to the rear. Was there a solution found or is this how they are supposed to be? Odd design choice if so..
  7. $80 for 4.10 ratio D30 ring and pinion? I assume for high pinion. Someone jump on those
  8. The rag was just to contain the mess if it happened again. The high side quick connect doesnt actually blow off the nipple when it happens, it blows out around the o ring. I'm using an r12 to 134 conversion kit, and the high and low side ports from the r12 are just adapted to the 134a q/c. Ill see if I can't get a picture up a bit later.
  9. I've done an OBD1 HO conversion on my 88 MJ 4.0, and since the dash had to come out anyway, I added all the necessary A/C components. Stock routing for the 93 XJ it all came out of. Brand new components. I can get a vacuum on the system with no problem, -30 IN HG for hours without the needle moving. Oil was in the system, so I started the truck, turned the compressor on and it runs beautifully. I start adding my first can of R134a ( I did the R12 to 134 conversion) and about 30 seconds into adding the can the high side fitting ruptures and shoots freon and PAG everywhere. The system itself is fully intact, it was the high side quick disconnect that blew. I replaced the O-Ring in the fitting and tried it again. Same issue, this time with a rag around the fitting, that oil is some nasty stuff. Obviously the high side is building pressure, it seems too much. Ideas? Thanks
  10. PFCLeist

    pucker factor

    Rattlers, cottons, coppers, widows, recluses, even the occasional gator. It seems as though there is a mutual understanding out here, though. You could walk over a cotton mouth and if it's just relaxing, it won't even be phased, as long as you leave it alone.
  11. Learned alot from this guy over the years, glad to see him working on an MJ.
  12. It almost looks like a heat sync, to cool the air as it's venturied into the intake manifold. Thats ridiculous though, it probably has something to do with strength.
×
×
  • Create New...