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gogmorgo

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Everything posted by gogmorgo

  1. So it recently was my birthday. I went home because my brother who lives 1500 miles away brought his fiancée home for the first time to meet the family. In the fuss of getting people into the middle of nowhere, my family pretty well forgot about my birthday. But my dad did give me a card: Also spotted during the road trip: And now back to regular programming.
  2. It's trying for sure. I direct people this way as often as I can, but frequently thanks to Facebook's dumb algorithms, I don't usually see stuff until it's been saturated with disinformation and I doubt anyone is even reading my answer at that point. You see the same questions posted over and over within the same groups, and there's no effective way of digging up real content. A couple months ago someone was asking advise on a no-start, and the first bunch of responses were just randomly throwing out parts with no real diagnostics. I typed up a quick response going over how to narrow down the problem, directed him to cruiser54.com and here, op liked it. A couple weeks later he posted up again saying he swapped all the parts recommended and it didn't help... no $#!&. I gave him another "Hey, you didn't do any diagnostics. Start with that, then go from there, don't waste money on parts you don't need." Got another like, but a couple weeks later there's another post. A bunch more new parts, some clearly just suggested by people trolling, still no start. Dude is fed up, hates the truck, can't throw more money at it, wants to know what it's worth to sell. I explain he did no diagnostics, probably broke it worse by throwing cheap parts at it for no reason, now there's probably more stuff wrong but we don't even know what because everything's been screwed with. He liked my post again, but still didn't reach out for more information, ignored good info for quick fixes and random morons. Facebook is a business that makes money by collecting your personal information and selling it, under the guise of connecting people. If you don'tbelieve me, that's literally their business model. They're not interested in anything other than profit, and makes more money the more they can target crap at you. They pick and choose what you see... and it seems the more useful info I post on popular threads, the longer it ends up being up before I see new ones in my feed, the more BS has been posted. Facebook is only interested in what's popular that people will come back up. It's a terrible medium for sharing help.
  3. And here's the first episode. Haven't watched it yet, spending way too much time on the road.
  4. Engine swap specifics will be about the same as an LS swapped XJ. In terms of suspension, it's all the same between long and short bed. As far as the frame is concerned, it's six inches longer between the back of the cab and front spring hanger, then an extra six inches between the rear spring hangers and bumper. Plus some stuff mounts in different places, like the shocks and gas tank hangers. Rear cross members are different too. Creativity could probably make shortbed stiffeners work, but I'm pretty sure Krustyballer on here makes long bed stiffeners, if not now then soon. Check the vendors forum in the classifieds.
  5. The front part of the XJ pan is pretty similar, and wouldn't take too much work to adapt. It's the the rear cab area (under the seats) that is drastically different. I don't know if collectively we've found a supplier for proper MJ floorpan repops. Pretty sure they're all just XJ pans of varying quality, by which I mean most of them don't really fit the XJ either.
  6. gogmorgo

    Rear fog lights

    Some members have separated the lens from the back portion by carefully heating them to break the glue. Or you can just pull the bulb holders out and run water through them.
  7. gogmorgo

    Rear fog lights

    Yup. Not the factory bumper. It's an old Fey/Westin bumper. Still being repopped under various brand names. It's a universal-fit 1/4-ton bumper. If Johnny Beck is still around they might get a kick out of seeing it. Some people collect old dealer memorabilia like that too... but there aren't too many who would place much value in that bumper, I don't believe.
  8. Well got her buttoned all back up this afternoon. Seems to be doing great, just took it on a 40-mile test drive. Gorgeous evening for a cruise. I would've got it done yesterday but I wasn't happy with the pinion seal that came in the kit. Just a cheap single-lip one. Fortunately d35 parts are common enough. I also discovered between knocking out the old pinion races that there were some chunks of gear tooth hanging out between the bearings. Ring and pinion look okay still but upon closer inspection the spider gears were shredding themselves. So there's some real justification for the time and money. That also explains the big clunk getting on and off the throttle... It's nice that that's gone now.
  9. Too late, their segment at Moab's already been filmed. I did try though when they first revealed it.
  10. Just a trailer I know. But this will be interesting to watch. Mildly modded MJ stacked up next to a JT. Looks like we can kiss that nice rear bumper goodbye though.
  11. I threw a zip-tie through a hole in the bottom of mine. Works great, because if I'm ever cranking it down it hits the zip-tie and there's increased resistance, I remember, and stop. It works great until I have a passenger who rolls the window down, hits resistance, and then gives the window crank hell before I can stop them, slices through the zip tie, and then a few minutes later decides they didn't want the window down after all but suddenly they can't roll the window back up...
  12. Part numbers are the same for the first year or so of the ZJ then they change. I don't know what the difference is if any. But I'd go with WJ lower control arms given the choice. Might as well upgrade while you're at it.
  13. Common place for the line to the reservoir to get damaged is where it runs past the battery. It's pretty easy to catch it with the battery while you're changing it. I've also seen pretty poor jobs of sealing the vacuum line to the heater valve after it was deleted.
  14. Seriously though. They had to take the time to change the molds to turn it into a truck instead of an SUV. Remove parts, make the wheelbase longer, etc. You'd think they'd at least put the filler door in and get rid of the window cutouts at the same time, no?
  15. Deep puddles on one side of the vehicle (or puddles that are deeper on one side than the other) will pull hard because suddenly your pushing through a substance that's over 700 times more dense with significantly more drag. Wider tires have more surface area getting hit by water which exaggerates the effect. Any vehicle hitting a puddle at speed will pull hard in the direction of the deeper part of the puddle. As for steering dampers, they exist to reduce oscillations. Death wobble is an oscillation that hits resonance. Oscillations (or vibrations) can be caused by anything... loose or worn pivot points, poor steering geometry, tire balance... all it takes is vibration at the wrong frequency. The steering damper prevents the vibration from resonating. Now clearly if the triggering vibration is severe enough it'll overwhelm the damper, (probably blow it out, TBH) and do its thing anyhow, but that doesn't mean it's not helping to stop small vibrations due to road surface or whatever that you would otherwise ignore from resonating and causing death wobble. And sloppy mounting points basically turn it useless.
  16. Let's go back to this terminology thing. The engine is "turning over" when you turn the key. That's it. It's not running. It's not firing. It's not coughing. It's not doing anything other than rotating under power of the starter. All that's happening is the starter is turning the engine. To see fuel while the engine is turning over you have to either have someone sitting there on the key holding it in the start position, or else some other setup that allows you to replicate that action from under the hood. The injector will not spray just because the fuel pump is running. It needs the signal from the ecu telling it to spray, which only happens while the engine is turning.
  17. Code 41 is charging curcuit, nothing to do with map sensor. I've made it go away more than once by cleaning battery terminals.
  18. The point is "turning over" has nothing to do with what's happening in the engine, just the fact that it's turning, driven by the starter. It's already turning over as soon as you hit the key. I got distracted and hit send before finishing that post. Went back and edited it. It sounds like something funky is happening with the relay, sure, but if you've got 40 ohms resistance through the fuel pump ground, that's a problem, and it needs addressed.
  19. Screw the ground fastener down, then put your anticorrosive agent on top if you care to use one. "Turn over" is what happens when the starter is engaged. It's irrelevant to fuel being present in the throttle body. Sounds like the word you're looking for is "fire", which is what happens when the air/fuel mixture is ignited inside the cylinder. 40 ohms is WAY more than you should be getting to a chassis ground. That's well over ten times the resistance you'd expect through the fuel pump itself... Although it is the resistance you'd see through the fuel gauge sending unit at around 1/2 tank. Are you measuring through the chassis side of the sending unit connector, of through the sending unit itself?
  20. Slowly working towards getting it in. I got the ring gear moved over and bearings pressed onto the carrier and pinion gear, then apparently it was absolutely critical I go sit on the beach being bored for a couple hours. Interestingly the SKF d35 bearing/seal set I got at Napa had Timkin pinion bearings, and then some chinesium carrier bearings. So that's a little odd. The idea must be the carrier bearings are way easier to swap out when they die prematurely.
  21. Switching to synthetic can sometimes loosen up old deposits and float them around, but it shouldn't cause permanent damage and I doubt it has much to do with any noises. Hydraulic lifters take up the slack in your valve lash as they wear, but eventually the lash exceeds the range they can make up, and the valvetrain starts making that clattery diesel noise. Running some Seafoam through it may help, or probably won't. If you want to deal with it, likely you're looking at changing out lifters and pushrods. Then once you're in there you may as well do a ton of other stuff, which can start to add up. Or you can just leave it and let it clatter away happily like mine does.
  22. This one. The Renix connectors are different from the one on my '91 but they're in the same place. Its it's the connector for the taillight harness, right before it goes through the rear splash panel.
  23. You should have basically zero resistance between ground and a clean part of the chassis. If you have any resistance there, then that's your problem. I bet you've got near battery voltage between the fuel pump's hot wire and a clean ground. Corroded wires can play havoc like that. Your voltmeter puts out so little voyage and current that you could have one tiny strand of wire or grain of green death making the connection with low resistance, but it's not enough connection to take the current necessary to power the load. Clean up the taillight ground and then the connector behind the wheel. Also worth mentioning, those three wires (and I can't tell you which is which) should be your 12v hot, the fuel pump ground that should have near zero resistance, and the feed to the fuel gauge, which I imagine will have at least some resistance.
  24. Ever have one of those moments where you blow your diff apart to change pinion bearings only discover they were only loose because the yoke nut back itself off? Oh well. The Truetrac going in will be worth it.
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