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Everything posted by gogmorgo

  1. That's kinda what it looks like. I can't say I know what radiators normally look like inside, but I imagine like the fins on the outside, they increase the surface area available for heat transfer. You would however need to be careful what coolant you're running to avoid plugging them up.
  2. If it's only dirty that's fine. I just wasn't sure what it might be dirty with, or what condition it's in under the dirt. I'll pm you when I get home from work. 👍
  3. That looks like the one, although I'm not digging what that passenger belt looks like. If it's just dirty that's one thing, but I am hoping for a safe belt for the nephews.
  4. Yeah, I think the title is a typo. The first sentence at the top of the first page of the "88-90" parts manual is: "This publication contains Parts Information for all 1987-90 JEEPS".
  5. Diesel gels at +20°F? good thing no one's told the stuff in our above-ground tanks at work that spent most nights between -20° and -45°F the last month... All the diesels in our fleet have winter fronts on them. The cooling systems are just so effective they just won't stay warm, even if they're parked in a heated space overnight. Block heater, functional thermostat with the appropriate temperature, and functional glow plugs are a must.
  6. https://raybuck.com/?s=Comanche They look to be replacements for the factory seat fabric, not really something you'd want to stick over the seats, I don't think. There was someone on here talking about a company making neoprene seat covers a bunch of years back. King covers or something maybe? I'll see if I can dig something up. Edit: Found it! https://www.wetokole.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=ASCWOH&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Jeep&CpValue=Commanche+&Per_Page=1000 This thread: suggests that you might want to tripple check what you're ordering from them by calling them instead of just blindly buying off the website, whether your bench has the notch in the front, or headrests, etc. This is also in the Vendors forum. May be a dead end but worth looking into as well.
  7. https://xjjeeps.com This is a valuable resource to keep bookmarked.
  8. I can't really see it being a whole heck of a lot. It's a pretty serious case of rot that takes out more than a couple square feet in each footwell, and the transmission tunnel would provide more torsional rigidity than the relatively flat pieces of the footwell. But then again I'm no expert, just someone with a very rudimentary grasp of stress and strain, very minimal experience applying it, and about five years since I've put much thought into something like this. That said however, one of my MJs has no rocker panels left to speak of, some of the pinch seam is even gone out of it on the one side, and it doesn't seem to have any rigidity issues. I've even had it doing 65mph with over 4500lbs behind it. Floors are reasonably solid still somehow, but rockers are going to be more structurally important than the floorpan. I've also had 3000+ lbs behind my xj, and it never seemed to have rigidity issues either, despite having effectively no floor at all, on top of not having much in the way of rockers. But that's not exactly a scientific comparison.
  9. Yeah, the structure of the plastic is probably less of a concern except possibly in the event of a collision, but will definitely be better than not having floors at all. It would probably be fine to use as a replacement to keep water and exhaust out, and keep heat in, etc. If you have to undergo provincial/state safety inspections, it's unlikely the inspector will have good things to say about it. They will tell you the structure is critical, and that it needs to be metal. You'd also be about as well off laying in chicken wire and fiberglass, which would probably run you cheaper.
  10. It also takes a fair bit of current to fire the starter solenoid, as it does have a pretty hefty gear to be shifting, and it needs solid pull to get it engaged. The added relay means you're not running all that current through the ignition switch, NSS (if equipped), etc. The more I've looked at the diagrams on that Zurok.ru site, the less confident I am in them. They may be correct, but they're not always labelled correctly. There's a decent electrical manual on here somewhere, check the DIY master index maybe.
  11. It does look to me as though that's what it is. The function can be achieved with a standard automotive relay, which switches power (supplied to pin 30) between 87 (normally open) and 87a (normally closed). As to why it's set up like that, tough to say, because it seems to be alternating between supplying power and ground to the a/c relay and rad fan. The ground could be something to do with the diagnostic connector, possibly to disperse induced voltages from either the a/c clutch or rad fan (solenoids, motors, collapsing magnetic fields and whatnot), or it could be a sneaky and unorthodox way to prevent the rad fan's temperature switch from also triggering the a/c clutch (unlikely but AMC could be creative sometimes). Changeover relays can also be used for latching, but I don't think that's what's going on here.
  12. I didn't notice the grill, haha. If all they'd done is a quick google or talked to the local Jeep "expert" they'd easily get the impression the transmission is made of glass. Similar to the Dana 35, yeah if you beat on it it'll break but I've also got one outside with 330,000 miles on it. Likely this one's suffered more from neglect than anything else. It would definitely be worth their time to dump the fluid for something fresh.
  13. It's not so much whether or not it can be done, but whether it could provide an acceptable product. https://www.quora.com/Is-it-possible-to-3D-print-sheet-metal The properties that rolling and stamping give to the grain structure of sheet metals, notably the stretching and compressing of the grains together causing incredibly strong bonds between the grains, can't be replicated by 3D printing. Yes you can get excellent results quickly compared to casting or machining, and in many cases the laser sintered part will be sturdier than an identical cast part, but for sheet metal components, 3D printing is really only good for prototyping non-structural parts. There are ways to CNC "stamp" metal, for prototyping structural elements from sheet metal, but it's a highly specialized machine you won't find outside of shops that do a ton of prototyping of complex stamped-steel multi-iteration parts (like an auto manufacturer's design department) and a long process. https://newatlas.com/ford-f3t/28148/ Finding someone with a machine like this sitting idle and willing to assist in a handful of floor pans for a 30-year-old truck would probably be as tough as getting someone capable of stamping them and willing to make the dies to pop out a small batch that could take years to sell. That's not to say it's not worth the effort of trying. And for all you know the original dies might still be sitting in a warehouse somewhere, although that's also a slim likelihood.
  14. That was a pretty recognizable silhouette to me. These guys are a little ridiculous at times, (apparently $6500 with free sponsored parts is "cheap") but some of their real-world comparisons are pretty good, and they do seem to be at least a little respectful of how clean an example they ended up with. I'm looking forward to seeing how well they find it stacks up against the Gladiator. I'm sure we all know the Gladiator will spank the MJ in a lot of categories, simply due to 35 years of progress in the automotive sector, but the massive dimensions allowing for modern passenger comforts definitely will change how the Gladiator performs as a truck.
  15. Autocorrect strikes again. I meant to ask how you found the floorpan. "to begin with?"
  16. I haven't really figured out whether the problem with the aftermarket stuff is related to the differences between MJ and XJ floors, or if the aftermarket just sucks. Stamped sheet metal parts aren't ideal for reproduction by 3D printing. Sintered metal doesn't have the inherent strength necessary for such a task, it's a lot like comparing a sheet of plywood to a sheet of partical board. I'm sure there's some kind of cnc machine out there capable of taking a raw sheet and hammering out one-offs in a fashion akin to hand-beating, but it would be in a highly specialized shop, time consuming, and probably incredibly expensive. It could be CNC milled from billet, but that's also ridiculous for the size of block you'd have to start with only to retain about 5% of it in the finished piece. The best way of reproducing sheet metal panels is unfortunately the same way the factory did, stamping it out in a gigantic press with a custom die. The expense there is the machine to do it, and then making the expensive dies, but having done that, it's really no different to stamp out 100 panels than it is to make just the one. A 3D scan would go a long way towards the production of a die, but the trick would be finding someone with the necessary press and convincing them it's worth their while to go to the trouble and expense of making dies when they're not likely to sell out a batch of 100 floorpans in the next 20 years.
  17. Even if there's no call for the full floor, it could still be useful for repops of the sections that commonly rot out, if some company was interested in selling pieces that actually fit. But you're undoubtedly right. Making a custom metal pressing die even the size of just a footwell is likely going to be prohibitively expensive. How do you track down a thing like that to being with?
  18. It was -20°F on my drive to work this morning. My drive home this afternoon was at +30. Don't get your hopes up though cause it's just mountain weather being dumb. Still some -25 lows in the forecast for the weekend, with highs below 10°F.
  19. Jack up front axle and grab the wheel and give it a good shake. If there's movement when pulling/pushing on the top and bottom, it indicates ball joint problems. Left/right will be tie rod(s). Play in all directions will be wheel bearing. A bad tie rod end will affect both wheels, but ball joints or wheel bearings are unlikely to cause problems on both sides. Steering tires also will wear on the inside more by nature of being steering tires. Our fleet at work has a spotty history of tire rotations, and a lot of the older tires tend to wear like that if they've never been rotated, even with nothing wrong with the truck.
  20. You can probably grab the fuel rail for a '91-95 XJ, maybe a YJ, or ZJ, with 4.0 at a yard and run a return line back as well.
  21. The days are getting noticeably longer again. There's a good hour and some of daylight now after I'm home from work. It's only the odd patch, but there's bare pavement poking through the streets around town. The few months until it quits snowing will fly by.
  22. "30 year old impractical concept truck". Still has a longer bed than the new "practical" thing.
  23. There's a lot of cheap junk out there with "DOT-approved" on it, which doesn't actually meet any sort of standard. The proper US DOT indication is "DOT-compliant" (not "approved") and will always fall back on a FMVSS108, SAE, or ECE standard. That's not to say the retailer is going to display that info, but it will be available from the manufacturer, and some retailers genuinely use "dot-approved" by mistake instead of "compliant". I myself do take issue with LED headlights. Many vehicles use the highbeams at reduced voltage as DRLs, but a lot of aftermarket lights don't address that, meaning if the driver hasn't switched on headlights they'll be running highbeams and blinding traffic around dawn and dusk when the it's darker but you don't really need headlights. It's also not uncommon to install levelling kits on trucks, but no one seems to consider the need to aim the headlights back down again after that. I also find the light spectrum LEDs put out incredibly harsh even when aimed properly, destroying my night vision. I've also seen problems with some of them projecting, pretty much they'll create a big bright spot of light in front of you, but the contrast of bright light makes it tough to see things that don't fall directly in the bright spot. The solution to that is making big bright spots everywhere, but then you'll run into not being dot-compliant and blinding other drivers, so then they get sharper cutoffs which just exacerbates not being able to see outside the beams. I also suspect some LED lights will switch to low by using pulse-width modulation which I find incredibly straining on my eyes. Plus the white is nasty reflecting off snow. The "dim" factory lights on the other hand produce a more yellow wash that's easier on the eyes, less destructive to night vision, and fades out rather than having sharp cutoffs, meaning there's more illumination outside the direct beam, and you can see better. I would hope the higher-end LEDs are better, but you never know. I also have experienced people struggling to see out of vehicles and ask about getting brighter headlights, and point out that their big beautiful stereo with pretty shiny lights is blinding them, or their bright led dash lights, backlit LED screens etc.
  24. If you haven't already, you can check out this forum section: https://comancheclub.com/forum/9-adventure-planning-regional-groups/
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